So sick of blowing coils. - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 13th, 2016, 11:14 PM
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Stephen LeBlanc
1994 Defender 90
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So sick of blowing coils.

What can j do to fix this. My coils keep blowing up.

Yes I searched the site. I'm so frustrated.

Mallory unilite dissy
New plugs
New wires
Brand new coil as I keep blowing them

Help?




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  #2  
Old August 13th, 2016, 11:50 PM
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That is weird. Do they blow with the stock ignition?
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  #3  
Old August 14th, 2016, 04:25 AM
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Kevin Keith
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What coils are you using?
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  #4  
Old August 14th, 2016, 06:03 AM
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Stephen LeBlanc
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Thanks for the responses. Yes, they were blowing when I had the original dizzy too.


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------ Follow up post added August 14th, 2016 07:09 AM ------

I'll check the model of coil soon. I'm using he one that the service rep at Summit Racing (who I think bought Mallory) suggested a certain from MSD. Works great for about 5 hours of accumulated drive time. Then it dies from running too hot.

They literally get too hot to touch.

Thanks all.


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  #5  
Old August 14th, 2016, 07:35 AM
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Chris
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Subscribed cos there is always more to learn about these ignitions systems than I know.
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  #6  
Old August 14th, 2016, 07:51 AM
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Stephen LeBlanc
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Also new wires. No ballast per advice from the service rep who advised on the coil.


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  #7  
Old August 14th, 2016, 08:00 AM
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Kevin Keith
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Is it always the same MSD coil? The Mallory has the amplifier mounted remotely right? Check that it has a good ground.

If you haven't already, bust out your meter & run the tests for the ignition system (coil amp dizzy).
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  #8  
Old August 14th, 2016, 08:04 AM
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Mark Whitehouse
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To begin with I thought this was a sexual fetish thread - dirty bugger blowing coils!!

However also subscribing so I can learn more about ignition systems
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  #9  
Old August 14th, 2016, 08:09 AM
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Stephen LeBlanc
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Lol! Thanks for the thoughts and laughs. I'll follow up with you shortly on meter results


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  #10  
Old August 14th, 2016, 08:27 AM
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Joshua
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Post the part numbers. We have that Mallory thread where people have shown their exact set-ups via part numbers. Hard to cross check without more info.
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  #11  
Old August 14th, 2016, 10:17 AM
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Chris Davis
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I've run Mallory for 10+ years and have trouble shot these for the same amount of time. Take a pic of your coil connections for us. Also, take a voltage reading at the coil with the ignition on. What model coil have you gone with? Sounds sort of like your field isn't fully collapsing and your saturating your coil-- which could be ground. When you replaced your wires, did you replace the coil to distributor wire too?

It would help if you told us what wires you have on the + terminal and which on the - terminal. Double checking stuff that is probably aready correct... Also, what plugs are you using and what plug gap. Excessive plug gap can stress the coil so pull a plug and look at that. Lastly, poor timing could too- have you recalibrated your distributor so you are not over advancing your timing? If you have a timing gun that can set for different timing advances, tell us your total advance at 2500rpm.

usually you would get knocking but you can still stress the coil with too far advance from what I understand. How do your plugs look?
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  #12  
Old August 14th, 2016, 10:54 AM
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I'm not up on the new fang led stuff like you're running but coils used to come in one of two voltages for a 12 volt system. Twelve volt of course that was wired straight in and also 9 volt that used a resister on the + feed to drop the voltage to 9v while running. This was VERY common on North American vehicles. So common that it is what people just expect to find. The idea is that when starting, the battery voltage is drawn down and a by-pass circuit cuts in giving the coil full available voltage which would be around the coils full design voltage.
If you have one of the coils designed to have a resistor (9v) and you put full voltage into it, you are going to over heat it and it will fail..

Does this sound familiar?
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  #13  
Old August 14th, 2016, 12:42 PM
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Stephen LeBlanc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davis View Post
I've run Mallory for 10+ years and have trouble shot these for the same amount of time. Take a pic of your coil connections for us. Also, take a voltage reading at the coil with the ignition on. What model coil have you gone with? Sounds sort of like your field isn't fully collapsing and your saturating your coil-- which could be ground. When you replaced your wires, did you replace the coil to distributor wire too?

It would help if you told us what wires you have on the + terminal and which on the - terminal. Double checking stuff that is probably aready correct... Also, what plugs are you using and what plug gap. Excessive plug gap can stress the coil so pull a plug and look at that. Lastly, poor timing could too- have you recalibrated your distributor so you are not over advancing your timing? If you have a timing gun that can set for different timing advances, tell us your total advance at 2500rpm.

usually you would get knocking but you can still stress the coil with too far advance from what I understand. How do your plugs look?

Thanks so much Davis. I'm away for the week but will certainly work on this when I get back and report back. Much appreciated!!




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------ Follow up post added August 14th, 2016 01:43 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg S View Post
I'm not up on the new fang led stuff like you're running but coils used to come in one of two voltages for a 12 volt system. Twelve volt of course that was wired straight in and also 9 volt that used a resister on the + feed to drop the voltage to 9v while running. This was VERY common on North American vehicles. So common that it is what people just expect to find. The idea is that when starting, the battery voltage is drawn down and a by-pass circuit cuts in giving the coil full available voltage which would be around the coils full design voltage.
If you have one of the coils designed to have a resistor (9v) and you put full voltage into it, you are going to over heat it and it will fail..

Does this sound familiar?


Makes sense to me! Tell my Defender! Lol!
I'll give my mechanic buddy this feedback. Certainly helpful. Thanks Greg!!


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  #14  
Old August 26th, 2016, 11:51 AM
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Bump for update
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  #15  
Old August 26th, 2016, 09:34 PM
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Stephen LeBlanc
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UPDATE: I didn't have any diagnostic tools on me today but had a few minutes to throw in a new coil. NO START. FUUuuuudge. I'll have more data for you soon.
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  #16  
Old August 26th, 2016, 09:50 PM
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K L
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HI,

Get a solid coil from SimonBBC in the UK. I am Houston based, and drove up to the hill country last weekend, tooled around for a few hours off-road and zero ignition issues with this all over 100F outside. A first for me! Previously I had to carry a couple spare coils and rotate as they heat (cook) up.

I presume your amplifier is relocated to the wing from the side of the dizzy? If not this helps with the heat.

Just need to get some AC! Then perhaps I might get passengers to come with me in my 4x4xsauna.
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  #17  
Old August 28th, 2016, 09:56 AM
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Sam Hagey
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Used to run a full mallory off road system until it fried itself repeatedly out of the blue. Switched back to full OEM and the truck runs so much better, no cooked coils. But, if you pop that hood, there is still black tar above where the old coils used to be from aggressively boiling over.... In fact, the mallory box is still bolted to the inner fender, which reminds me, I need to remove that so it doesn't confuse anyone doing service... I was on the road away from my garage when it all happened, only option for service was a german car indy shop... 10 hours of shop time total on that ignition system. . . Just for me to switch over to a stock setup pulled from a parts yard that has worked flawlessly since.
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