Slipped liner? How to tell.. - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old April 16th, 2007, 10:21 PM
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Jason Herring
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Slipped liner? How to tell..

How can I check to test if a cylinder liner has been slipping? The block deck has been checked as flat, the head tested at two machine shops for flatness and pressure tested, the gasket is OK, and I'm still getting alot of coolant in one particular cylinder during operation which leads to superheated coolant and overheating. There is, however, no sign of coolant in the oil I can see.

Looking at the deck the cylinder sleeve/liner looks flush with the surface and does not appear 'loose'. How can I test this, or, what should I look for to know if this liner is slipping? I'm assuming it's not good to try to 'tap' on it and see if it moves downward...
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  #2  
Old April 16th, 2007, 10:52 PM
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Peter Sherman
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If the liner has slipped you will see it it isnt gonna go back & forth..
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  #3  
Old April 16th, 2007, 11:42 PM
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Hans Haase
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There is also the possbility of a crack in the block, behind that particular liner, which you won't be able to see. If that's the case, only two options are either a new block or to try a block sealant, which some folks here have used with good success. Some 4.0's and 4.6's suffered from bad castings/metalurgy that caused pores in the blocks, resulting in the same symptoms. I'd do a search on "Porous block" in this forum, to see what the one guy used for a sealant. In theory, the stuff should last for many years and be a pretty permanent fix.

But, before you get too worried, there are other possbilities. You may have a warped area in the intake manifold, or a bad seal up on the valley gasket, that is causing the coolant to get drawn in through the intake. If so, it should leave some kind or residue in the intake path and along the bad part of the sealing surface.


Which head gaskets are you using anyways? stamped steel? or the composites? The composite gaskets seal MUCH MUCH better. Also, when you torque down the head bolts, make sure not to torque down the lower row all the way, Rover discovered that it causes distortions to the sealing surface. These are the very bottom row, the shorter bolts near the exhaust manifolds. Just put some thread sealant on them and torque to 25lbs.
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  #4  
Old April 16th, 2007, 11:56 PM
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Chris Davis
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I used block sealant--been years now, total success. Follow the directions to the letter. Search for it and you can find my original post. I believe the block sealant I used was from CRC or something like that.
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  #5  
Old April 17th, 2007, 03:37 AM
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Jason Herring
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So, the liner appears flush with the block deck, so I assume the liner has not slipped (if it's not going to move up and down).

One questin Hans, how could a crack behind the liner result in coolant in the cylinder and none in the oil? I'm steam-cleaning my piston - only the one piston - and it's coming out the tailpipe.

I'll have to see about the torquing - it was done per the manual. I also have not checked the intake manifold, but, I am not sure if coolant is passing between it at the head (have to look tomorrow, but I thought not).

I'm using the tin gaskets. I'll see if British Pacific carries the composite gaskets.

Maybe (optimistic thinking) it's a cracked head which only causes a problem when it heats up. At room temp it pressure tests OK, but who knows at high temp.
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Old April 17th, 2007, 09:05 AM
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Jim C.
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Slipped can be a general term used for any type of failure in the bond between liner and block. Visually, mine looked fine when disassembled.

jC
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  #7  
Old April 17th, 2007, 06:39 PM
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Jason Herring
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so where was the water going in yours, Jim? Into the cylinder? Nothing in the oil?
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