Sleeving Track rod - Page 2 - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #21  
Old November 2nd, 2015, 02:02 PM
fishEH's Avatar
fishEH
Status: Offline
Brett Fritzler
94, 95, 96 D1's
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Lake Villa, IL
Posts: 1,113
The Rover TRE thread nuts and bungs can be ordered from Summit Machine as a special order. They aren't ridiculously expensive, either. My total was $96 shipped for 4 bungs and 4 jam nuts.

I bought my 1.5" x .25" wall DOM from RuffStuff Specialties. I bought one 36" length(drag link) and one 48" length(track rod). The total shipped using a coupon/sale code was about $85. DOM Tube, 1.5" X .25" Wall, 1" Tube ID - RuffStuff Specialties

I added in a tube clamp from Ballistic for my steering damper for another ~$40.

So all in I have a set of steering links for about the same cost as off the shelf ones, only mine are bigger and stronger.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #22  
Old November 2nd, 2015, 02:04 PM
Z.G's Avatar
Z.G
Status: Online
Zack
300Tdi 95 D1
Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Burlington, VT
Posts: 4,678
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
The Rover TRE thread nuts and bungs can be ordered from Summit Machine as a special order. They aren't ridiculously expensive, either. My total was $96 shipped for 4 bungs and 4 jam nuts.

I bought my 1.5" x .25" wall DOM from RuffStuff Specialties. I bought one 36" length(drag link) and one 48" length(track rod). The total shipped using a coupon/sale code was about $85. DOM Tube, 1.5" X .25" Wall, 1" Tube ID - RuffStuff Specialties

I added in a tube clamp from Ballistic for my steering damper for another ~$40.

So all in I have a set of steering links for about the same cost as off the shelf ones, only mine are bigger and stronger.
So essentially you spent $221 instead of the $150 I would have charged you, for .3" larger rods...
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old November 2nd, 2015, 02:09 PM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Offline
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,235
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.G View Post
So essentially you spent $221 instead of the $150 I would have charged you, for .3" larger rods...
Exactly. Not much point in building your own... Sleeving them with $10 worth of pipe makes sense, especially with it sitting right there. Building your own with tubing and inserts and jamb nuts makes no sense when you can just buy them and they are nicely plated.
__________________
Pissing people off on the "net" since 1983.

Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #24  
Old November 2nd, 2015, 02:11 PM
fishEH's Avatar
fishEH
Status: Offline
Brett Fritzler
94, 95, 96 D1's
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Lake Villa, IL
Posts: 1,113
Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.G View Post
So essentially you spent $221 instead of the $150 I would have charged you, for .3" larger rods...
What's the O.D. and the wall thickness on your rods? What are they made from and do they include a decent and adjustable damper bracket?
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old November 2nd, 2015, 02:13 PM
Z.G's Avatar
Z.G
Status: Online
Zack
300Tdi 95 D1
Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Burlington, VT
Posts: 4,678
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
What's the O.D. and the wall thickness on your rods? What are they made from and do they include a decent and adjustable damper bracket?

1.2" OD .3" wall, steel, and a bracket
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old November 2nd, 2015, 02:22 PM
fishEH's Avatar
fishEH
Status: Offline
Brett Fritzler
94, 95, 96 D1's
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Lake Villa, IL
Posts: 1,113
Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.G View Post
1.2" OD .3" wall, steel, and a bracket
Sounds pretty decent.
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old November 2nd, 2015, 04:19 PM
don's Avatar
don
Status: Offline
Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Rumson, NJ
Posts: 4,271
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
Ok. Not a bad idea. But will need to find 2 LH ones lol
I think the same supplier sells LH ones as well. Or we can make them with the tap I have.
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old November 2nd, 2015, 04:26 PM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Offline
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,235
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
I think the same supplier sells LH ones as well.
Nope. I checked their website and they only do RH. Maybe there is a source in the UK?

I'm thinking anything soft enough to tap would not make a very good thin nut.
__________________
Pissing people off on the "net" since 1983.

Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old November 2nd, 2015, 04:28 PM
Z.G's Avatar
Z.G
Status: Online
Zack
300Tdi 95 D1
Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Burlington, VT
Posts: 4,678
Registry
I can probably get a whole bunch of them if people need.
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old November 2nd, 2015, 10:54 PM
bossman429's Avatar
bossman429
Status: Offline
Adrian
1988 90
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Red Bank, NJ, USA
Posts: 1,416
Registry
Here are the results. Pretty happy. Sleeved everything with some 1" schedule 40 black pipe. Did a plug weld every 6" 90 degree off from each other. Also welded the ends. I left 2" on each end that female threads as to not mess them up, and also leave room for the securing clamps to slide on. Figured this would be plenty strong as is bc the TRE will essentially fill that and make it solid all the way through. I did forget to get 2 nuts and have to get another one for the down tube/steering rod/ whatever you want to call the thing that's in front of the axle. Also I cut and re welded the steering dampener bracket onto the larger diameter pipe, even though I'm not sure I'm going to bother running one on this truck (we'll see).

I did make sure to turn down the heat and do the ends in stages, so the threads didn't get messed up. All turned out great.

Now to get linexed along with the pan hard bar and I'll be all set!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-1548100267.jpg
Views:	51
Size:	513.8 KB
ID:	133746   Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2537539709.jpg
Views:	43
Size:	527.0 KB
ID:	133747  

Click image for larger version

Name:	image-1003530460.jpg
Views:	41
Size:	524.1 KB
ID:	133748   Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2066543781.jpg
Views:	44
Size:	495.9 KB
ID:	133749  

Click image for larger version

Name:	image-562836664.jpg
Views:	41
Size:	453.7 KB
ID:	133750  
__________________
1967 Series IIa 109 5 Door - Work in progress
'98 Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series
Reply With Quote
  #31  
Old November 3rd, 2015, 06:55 AM
Nomar's Avatar
Nomar
Status: Offline
Jeff B
RR HNTR,RR LWB Tdi
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Central,Virginia
Posts: 4,290
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Why?

If you ruined the threads, you welded much too hot. It really does not need any welding. The pipe could just be loose. .

that's an interesting idea- -then you could literally "roll" over those tight spots...


.
__________________


Real Rovers have round headlights!
Rent my
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
!
Just a few miles from 4x4 access!
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old November 3rd, 2015, 07:34 AM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Offline
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,235
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
that's an interesting idea- -then you could literally "roll" over those tight spots... .
Google "Dan bar Land Rover".

http://www.extreme4x4.co.uk/acatalog..._DAN_BARS.html
__________________
Pissing people off on the "net" since 1983.

Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old November 3rd, 2015, 12:19 PM
flippedrover's Avatar
flippedrover
Status: Offline
Tyler
'94 D-90
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Ashburn,va
Posts: 3,125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
that's an interesting idea- -then you could literally "roll" over those tight spots... .
thought that was the point of sleeving them.
__________________
Can't you feel 'em circlin' (closin'in) honey?
Can't you feel 'em swimmin' around?
You got fins to the left, fins to the right,
and you're the only bait in town.
You got fins to the left, fins to the right,
and you're the only girl in town.

Jimmy Buffett


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
ac, rack, vin

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Heavy Duty Track Rod Kit with Tie rod ends $250.00 SafariHP The Vendors Loft 0 August 30th, 2012 04:20 PM
Harness sleeving cooked, cracked and falling aparts JFD Defender Technical Discussions 0 June 1st, 2011 06:38 PM
Equipe Panhard Rod and HD Track Rod Rugbier For Sale - Parts 14 March 23rd, 2011 09:27 PM
Sleeving Clutch Master and Slave nikojo Defender Technical Discussions 3 March 22nd, 2011 03:43 AM
Tie Rod/Track Rod joint removal....aarrrrghh DNinety Defender Technical Discussions 5 October 24th, 2010 01:08 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:50 PM.


Copyright