Slave clutch bleeding - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old April 23rd, 2011, 03:21 PM
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John
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Slave clutch bleeding

I've read I believe every post having to do with clutch bleeding and clutches.

I've just replaced the clutch MC. The lines are almost new stainless. The flex hose is also almost new.

The slave cylinder was fine before and there is NO leaking or loss of fluid.

Problem is I bleed, and bleed, and bleed.......and pedal remains soft. I've used pressure bleeder and manual. Nothing. Unbelievably frustrating.

Does the slave HAVE to be removed to bleed it????? I know it would be ideal to do that but I've got a 2.8 and the exhaust has made it literally impossible to remove the slave.

Other question is that the bleed valve is on the "bottom" of the slave, ie the tube attaches at top. I assume this is not ideal but is it a deal breaker to bleeding??
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  #2  
Old April 23rd, 2011, 05:26 PM
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Skinny Pete
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Try bleeding the mc. I've had good success just having someone depress the pedal and hold it down, then I crack the nut on the line from the mc. Retighten the nut then let the pedal up. Hold a rag over the nut to catch the brake fluid. Do this once or twice and you should be good to go. This is assuming your attempts to bleed so far have at least resulted in getting fluid out of the bleed screw. If you aren't getting that then your pedal is not adjusted right.
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  #3  
Old April 23rd, 2011, 09:16 PM
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John B.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikojo View Post
Other question is that the bleed valve is on the "bottom" of the slave, ie the tube attaches at top. I assume this is not ideal but is it a deal breaker to bleeding??
Yes, you have the slave in upside down. The bleed nipple should (must) be on top. There is no way for the air to get to the nipple when in the way you have it.

They bleed easiest when out. I specifically built my exhaust with an easy to remove piece below the slave just for this purpose.
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  #4  
Old April 24th, 2011, 01:34 AM
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Well, problem solved.

A sawzal created a new "piece" to take apart the exhaust so I unbolted from the turbo.

Changed out the slave and put in nipple on top and it bled right away and worked immediately.

I had the master cylinder and a slave cylinder BOTH resleeved in brass. Hopefully won't need to do this again for a long, long time. Bitch of a job.
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  #5  
Old April 24th, 2011, 11:12 AM
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Jamie Austin
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Whenever i've fitted new clutch hydraulics, i just fill it up, and sit in the cab and pump, full pedal travel right to the bottom.

keep doing this, takes a while sometimes (well, 10 minutes?) keep pumping, might take 100 pumps but soon you'll feel some resistance at the bottom, when this happens within about 20 or so pumps you get a full pedal.

saves fannying about on your back with bleed pipes.
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Old April 24th, 2011, 03:26 PM
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does that somehow "dissolve" the air or get the air to come back up??

i had a similar question on the brakes...........if the brakes still have a "little" air, will it eventually works its way out, or dissolve, or whatever?????
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  #7  
Old April 24th, 2011, 03:44 PM
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Well I suppose you could do the opposite of dissolving it by pulling a vacuum on it. I think they even make vacuum bleeders. I'm just not sure how one would go about practically doing that.
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Old April 24th, 2011, 04:27 PM
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No. I was just following up on what Jamie was asking.

I know you can either vacuum or pressure bleed.

I was wondering what happens to the air that doesn't get bled.......does it just sit there??? Forever??
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  #9  
Old April 25th, 2011, 09:40 AM
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You can bleed the clutch with the MC installed nipple down (as the factory intended it to be- beats me!) by going upstream. I use a large syringe and inject fluid from the nipple until my daughter stops seeing bubbles at the reservoir. It takes about three minutes.
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  #10  
Old April 25th, 2011, 04:08 PM
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  #11  
Old April 25th, 2011, 04:10 PM
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I ordered a reverse pressure bleeder in case I have to do this again!!!!!

I've got an extra resleeved new MC I may sell!!!
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  #12  
Old April 26th, 2011, 11:44 AM
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Keep that MC around. City driving is hard on that part.

Do you notice how many threads are exposed on the bleed nipple? The next part of the saga would be to thread a jamb nut and sealing washer (banjo bolt style) on the exposed threads of the bleed nipple. When you loosen the bleeding nipple, use the jam nut and washer to seal the port and then pressure up the circuit. When the circuit is air free and MC resevoir filled it is not a drama to let it leak some fluid while loosening the jamb nut and tightening the bleed nipple.

The trick is to bleed the air from the high point in the circuit. Which is the loop up from the MC.
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  #13  
Old April 26th, 2011, 02:39 PM
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Jake K.
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I always try to get the MC level and then bleed it as normal. Park on a hill,use a fork lift, or a shop lift to level it out. Always seems to have air trapped in the MC when you bleed it on level ground.
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