shuttle valve electric failure 114? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 3rd, 2015, 11:04 AM
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Ben Goodwin
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shuttle valve electric failure 114?

Is this the cheap fix or the expensive fix type of problem?



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  #2  
Old September 3rd, 2015, 01:01 PM
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Trevor Griffiths
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Is this for a D2?
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  #3  
Old September 3rd, 2015, 01:36 PM
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Depends on how you fix it. The 'correct' way to fix it would be to install a new shuttle valve kit which is probably around $800. The cheap way is to bypass the bad connection in the modulator. Look around on the internet and you will find lots of write ups on how to do this. I would recommend getting new shuttle valve switches because the wire insulation will almost certainly be cracked and falling off.
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Old September 4th, 2015, 03:36 AM
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Ben Goodwin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roverlab View Post
Is this for a D2?
Yep, 2004 D2 with the three amigos and the brake light.
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  #5  
Old September 4th, 2015, 04:43 AM
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Easy fix is to pull the cluster and stuff electrical tape in the holes for the three offending indicators. Works like a charm.
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  #6  
Old September 4th, 2015, 05:24 AM
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Why is it that the three amigos are the only things that work on D2s?
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I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #7  
Old September 4th, 2015, 08:27 AM
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You can grab one of these and replace it relatively easily

VALVE KIT ABS MODULATOR DISCOVERY II, SWO500030, Shuttle valve - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts
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Old September 4th, 2015, 09:03 AM
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Ben - it has been written up many times to do the fix. You can do it - I did it

It is the ABS modulator, there is a "jumper" connection you need to make in the ABS itself, so take off brake lines, disassemble ABS - do fix, reassemble, bleed, clear codes - DRIVE.

Do a google search - it is out there easy to find.
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  #9  
Old September 4th, 2015, 09:19 AM
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There is no need to remove any brake lines to do any of the repairs unless you are replacing the complete modulator.
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Old September 4th, 2015, 10:26 AM
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What Jimmie said...
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  #11  
Old September 4th, 2015, 11:12 AM
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Ben Goodwin
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What is the difference between the $80-95 shuttle valve kit and the one with "switches" that costs 10 times that? I know that the more expensive one comes with the "switches" but since I have never taken an ABS unit apart before I don't really know much about it. My 90 doesn't have abs or a computer and I pretty much just used the ebrake on my D1.
Can I be sure based on the 114 code that the cheaper kit will fix the issue rather than needing the switches?

I don't really care that the three amigo lights are on, it's the red "brake light" that causes it to fail inspection that I would like to fix once and for all. If it's $80-90 and an afternoon of me drinking a cool beverage in the shade while telling my little brother the lawyer how to fix it I am fine with buying the part.

Thanks for all the responses, I can't imagine trying to keep up with answering a bunch of other people's questions in my free time. Not that I know enough to give advice anyway! It is greatly appreciated and has really helped with my tendency to always assume the worst case when something goes wrong.
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  #12  
Old September 4th, 2015, 11:19 AM
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You don't even really need the kit I listed. You can do it for less than $10 with a trailer wiring kit
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  #13  
Old September 4th, 2015, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
There is no need to remove any brake lines to do any of the repairs unless you are replacing the complete modulator.
Good to know...I just followed the directions on YouTube and that is what it said to do. Ben go for it. Enjoy the beers

If you don't want to do it I think you can find guys like Randy, maybe Trevor, who have them already done.
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  #14  
Old September 4th, 2015, 12:38 PM
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Ben Goodwin
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I don't mind doing it, I just hate getting into a project like this and having to stop and order more parts and have it stretch out for weeks on end. But, If it is going to require the more expensive of the parts I am inclined to let it go and just keep clearing the code.
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  #15  
Old September 4th, 2015, 01:04 PM
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Get the cheap switches that go on the bottom of the modulator. You can test them with a multimeter, but I would just replace them. You'll see when you take it apart, the wire insulation will be falling apart.
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  #16  
Old September 4th, 2015, 01:26 PM
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Ben Goodwin
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Thanks, I like the cheap fix! But I also like having the part in hand just in case the cheap fix doest work. Then silly side projects don't eat up anymore Defender than absolutely necessary!
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