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  #1  
Old November 2nd, 2006, 07:30 AM
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Question Show me your rear ends!

Er,I mean the rear bumper ends!
Safari Gard or similar...

I'm considering to have a pair fabricated on my own,
I'd modify the design though so to make them as minimal as possible.

Anybody willing to take some good pics please?
Especially the way they bolt on the crossmember and the lateral view...

TIA!


Follow-up Post:

This could be a start...
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  #2  
Old November 2nd, 2006, 12:36 PM
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Here are some pics of my SG bumperettes. I restored these, and since one of the bumps was missing the aluminum tread plate, I took the plate off and used marine grade non-skid permanent tape for the top. These were ground sanded down to bare steel with a drill and rotary sanding rust abrasion head. Then I treated them with locktite rust converter, and painted them with fusion rust primer, and fusion paint. 3/8 Grade 8 bolts hardware, and backing plates, finished the job.

The inside brackets are box and the holes fit the crossmember. The outside is T, and I drilled the cross member. Hope this helps.
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  #3  
Old November 2nd, 2006, 02:00 PM
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Marc,
thanks for the pics,much appreciated.
I've never seen a detailed pic of the SG protector and I realize now Scorpion Racing ones have been made on the same design...so there's not so much to change...

I may reduce the boxed section and the bracket,assuming to leave enough room for tightening the bolts...

(scratch scratch)

Not a 5 mins job anyway...

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  #4  
Old November 2nd, 2006, 03:37 PM
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I have the Bearmarch brand from DAP. They bolt thru the 2 small holes on the end of the cross member and you need to drill 2 more holes in the crosmember.
small grade 8 bolts are provided. Not sure how robust they will be if i start jacking on them or use them for recover.

The SG are plenty strong for jacking and recovery. They bolt thru the existing holes for the cage support. double wall bolting is better than the single wall of the Bearmarch.

I wish I hadnt sold my SG protectors to Marc they cost over $350 new from SG.

Marc you did a nice job cleaning them up.
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  #5  
Old November 2nd, 2006, 05:08 PM
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Thanks Ron, yu gave me a deal, and ironically I bought them from you right when I was cancelling my bumps order from SG, due to non delivery.

edit removed>
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  #6  
Old November 2nd, 2006, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewap
I took the plate off and used marine grade non-skid permanent tape for the top
Interesting.... I used the 3M tape on my rock rails. Seems like it will do the job, but will probably not last years and years. I had bought the 3M tape at my local Home Depot (primary use is for stairs....).

Is the marine stuff (much) better? I guess you can buy it from a marine shop?
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  #7  
Old November 2nd, 2006, 09:33 PM
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better still, at most good hardware stores, you can buy silica sand in the paint sections. It is what you add to paint to create the non-slip surface. Much like the black non-slip paint you sometimes see on concrete steps. You can add it to almost any paint type. I used it on the hood of my Jeep (back when I was a rover wanna-be) by mixing with black enamel paint, and it worked great. Pour it in and brush it on.
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  #8  
Old November 2nd, 2006, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cube II
I'm considering to have a pair fabricated on my own,
I'd modify the design though so to make them as minimal as possible.

I think this is about as "minimal" as you can get!



Sorry, couldn't help myself, all this talk about rearends gets me all riled up.
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Made it further than half of the other guys, but the Hammers won.
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  #9  
Old November 2nd, 2006, 10:28 PM
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The marine non-slip tape is not a silica based tape. Barefoot sailors would have a hard time on silica. It is thicker than the silica type? Rough and rubberized is how I describe it. I use it on the sliders (top) as well. It's been holding up very well for the last two months, hwy driving, storms and all. Only time will tell.

I figured if it's good for salt water yachts, it's good for Rover. Any online Marine shop sells it..

I like the silica/paint idea. How 'bout rubber type paint with silica?


Buckon, that is really a small .....erh...rear end!
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  #10  
Old November 2nd, 2006, 10:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewap
Buckon, that is really a small .....erh...rear end!

Yeah Baby!!!! Thats just the way I like em!!!!
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Made it further than half of the other guys, but the Hammers won.
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  #11  
Old November 3rd, 2006, 02:52 AM
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minimal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
I think this is about as "minimal" as you can get!
Naaah,there's room still for a bit of surgery!
Spot the difference!

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  #12  
Old November 3rd, 2006, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewap
Here are some pics of my SG bumperettes. I restored these, and since one of the bumps was missing the aluminum tread plate, I took the plate off and used marine grade non-skid permanent tape for the top. These were ground sanded down to bare steel with a drill and rotary sanding rust abrasion head. Then I treated them with locktite rust converter, and painted them with fusion rust primer, and fusion paint. 3/8 Grade 8 bolts hardware, and backing plates, finished the job.

The inside brackets are box and the holes fit the crossmember. The outside is T, and I drilled the cross member. Hope this helps.
Are you sure these were SG bumper ends?? My SG ends look nothing (okay, well maybe thatís a bit of an exaggeration) like these. The inner most mount is not boxed (and I had to drill the cross member for these), and the outer most mount uses stock cross member holes and is "L'd" the other direction. The SG bumper ends I have also mount closer to the rear cross member (donít stick out as far from the rear of the cross member), and the passenger side has a half circle cut-out in it to fit around the lower tire carrier mount of the soft tops. Mine didn't come with aluminum tread plate either, but with the non-skid tape you described. I think those may be a different design than SG??
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  #13  
Old November 3rd, 2006, 09:07 AM
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I had to drill as well. Could it be that Ron mistook these for SG?, not that it matters, it would be ironic though.
Can you post a pic?
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  #14  
Old November 3rd, 2006, 09:23 AM
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Something better than this



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  #15  
Old November 3rd, 2006, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cube II
Something better than this



I'll see what I can do, but unless SG has signifigantly changed the design since I bought mine ('98 or '99) I don't think those were SG pieces..
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  #16  
Old November 3rd, 2006, 02:02 PM
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Well it seems that Ron thought they were SG, because of the guy he traded with said so. Looks like I might have me a set of Scorpions!. Honest mistake, and happy to sport the Scorpions, they look tough enough to do the job.
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  #17  
Old November 3rd, 2006, 02:03 PM
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Scott u may be right I traded some d90 stuff and they guy said they where SG. After looking at the Scorp site they may be Scorp.

Thesy are stout units . I have used them for recovery and used my high lift on them without issue

Marc Ill take them back if you want : )

Not really interested in paying $350 plus and waiting 2 months.....
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  #18  
Old November 3rd, 2006, 02:44 PM
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My response is what do you want these things to do? Is it a place to stand? What is the porpoise that you are trying to achieve? Then design around that.

I have the stock military? bumperettes. The only use I can see it to let me back into a wall without hitting a narrow spare tire.
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  #19  
Old November 3rd, 2006, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90
My response is what do you want these things to do? Is it a place to stand? What is the porpoise that you are trying to achieve? Then design around that.

I have the stock military? bumperettes. The only use I can see it to let me back into a wall without hitting a narrow spare tire.
Here are the use I might see for them:
- highlift the truck to replace a wheel when off-road
- Allow someone to jump of them and jiggle the truck to try to get traction/off of something
- If combined with a small "return" under the rear quarter (they all seem to have that), they might protect the quarter from coming in contact with a rock/tree when stepping out of a ledge.
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  #20  
Old November 3rd, 2006, 03:12 PM
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- highlift the truck to replace a wheel when off-road

You can highlift from the center 1/2 of the crossmember. My point is to define your goals as this requirement would control the design.

- Allow someone to jump of them and jiggle the truck to try to get traction/off of something

Sure... A place to stand is about all I use them for.

- If combined with a small "return" under the rear quarter (they all seem to have that), they might protect the quarter from coming in contact with a rock/tree when stepping out of a ledge.

Or maybe you get hung up on the thing you added.... Again, understanding the goals help set the design. If this wa sthe only reason, then a panel guard is what you want.
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