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  #1  
Old February 9th, 2010, 03:02 PM
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Should i rotate tires?

Hi,
i have on my <3 discoverer S/T and drove about 20000km on them since i bought them. On some site i found recommendation to rotate the tires position but my tire shop said it makes no sense.
what you guys recommend? Rotate? And if yes, how? front/rear left/right after how many km driven?

i air them once a month and balancing they needed only once since
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  #2  
Old February 9th, 2010, 03:29 PM
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In the past, every time I rotated my tires, I noticed a vibration and louder road noise afterwards. So on my H3, I refused to rotate them. After 3 years I noticed a vibration in the steering wheel and noise every time I took a long curve. I rotated my tires and it went away. Didn't really answer your question did I? Why did your shop say it didn't make any sense?
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  #3  
Old February 9th, 2010, 04:49 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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I don't but if you do some tire people
say you should always leave them on
the same side, so FL to RL and FR to RR.

Or may be you also want to rotate the spare,
then it's a mess ...
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Old February 10th, 2010, 09:04 AM
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I dont know if the newer manuals state it anymore but the older ones used to specifically say not to rotate the tires.
I did once with my disco and it had the shakes worse than Michael J Fox.
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  #5  
Old February 10th, 2010, 09:17 AM
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ok thanks! i will not rotate them and once they shake like McFly junior, or even worse, like McFly senior, i will make my tire shop to balance them with another half kilo of lead stickers. Not that i dont have enough already.
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Old February 10th, 2010, 09:21 AM
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NEVER cross rotate from side to side, rotate only front to back. The steel in radials position themselves to a side and if you reverse that the tire will warp.

If you fail to rotate and then do all of the sudden, you'll get a vibration as the tread will "chop". It will go away as long as you rotated front to rear.

Bottom line, rotate as regular maintanance and balance when you start to feel it.

------ Follow up post added February 10th, 2010 09:30 AM ------

Also, another tip. If you have more than three or four ounces of weights on a side, have them break the bead and spin the tire around the rim half way. That will normally help. Don't ever let them counter balance the weight on one side of the wheel (place opposing weights in the same side). That will eventually damage the rim. Also, don't do the five wheel rotation (spare swap). Folks think they save money that way but it just messes everything up.
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  #7  
Old February 10th, 2010, 09:55 AM
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I have done it both ways, rotate and not rotate. If you rotate front to back, do it often. Tire pressure is really really important and I have found 40psi on mud tires works best for me even though the book says 28 psi front and 38 rear.
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  #8  
Old February 10th, 2010, 10:13 AM
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What about rotating the spare in for a 5 wheel rotation? I have BFG MT's, which I believe are not rotationally specific. I was getting ready to rotate it into the mix...
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Old February 10th, 2010, 10:15 AM
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thanks...

Shane: what did you mean by " Don't ever let them counter balance the weight on one side of the wheel (place opposing weights in the same side)" ?


Scott: i have them at 2,7bar (40PSI) also because of consumption on the road. Didnt yet had to deflate them, only in deep sand they burry them self deep but car still goes.
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Old February 10th, 2010, 10:22 AM
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Chris, if it's a radial then you have to keep it to the same side. The steel will settle at diagonal slant. When you swap sides the steel has to reverse itself and it cannot so it warps and ruins the tire. I don't like five wheel rotations because you have to track the side and you end up with one side of the car with significantly less wear. When you buy a new set you want to keep similar tires on each axle and end up buying in pairs anyway. Keep the spare fresh and worry about maintaining the four tires on the ground.
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  #11  
Old February 10th, 2010, 10:24 AM
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Rotation Interval is every 6000 to 8000 miles, or every other oil change.

Rotation A: Directional Type (front to rear and vice versa)

Rotation B: Side to Side swap

repeat as needed


I also like to throw my spare into the rotation as well, the tire with the most treadwear goes to the spare location and the spare replaces it. I used to use Equal in my tires to balance them but have switched to Dynabeads (no lead weights at all). I typically run 35 PSI all the way around and and even with between 2 and 4 wheeling trips a year my last set of tires (TSL Radials) went 30,000 miles before I replaced them. Even then they had life left in them and the treadwear was even across all 5.
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Old February 10th, 2010, 10:30 AM
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Sandy, counter balancing is when a tech hammers or sticks weights on say the outside of the tire (or inside) and then puts more weights on the opposite side. For explanation's sake, if you're looking at your wheel and can see weights on the top and bottom, then it's counter balanced. Weight should only be placed on one spot on a side of a rim. However, it's okay of the outside and inside weights counter each other.

Inexperienced or lazy techs do this because it's easier to hammer on a new weight rather than reposition a weight. In difficult to balance tires, you'll end up being counter balanced by a bad shop.

I brought this up because when I bought my 90, that's one of the first things I noticed.
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  #13  
Old February 10th, 2010, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crown14 View Post
I used to use Equal in my tires to balance them but have switched to Dynabeads (no lead weights at all).
I tried Equal as well and switched back to stick on weights. I hated the way that tires with equal in them would start bouncing after you drove on a bridge or other large crack in the road.
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  #14  
Old February 10th, 2010, 11:46 AM
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ok thanks! one learns every day. :-)
I do have weight on two sides but only outside or inside...
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Old February 10th, 2010, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landrovered View Post
I tried Equal as well and switched back to stick on weights. I hated the way that tires with equal in them would start bouncing after you drove on a bridge or other large crack in the road.

Never had that problem, it might have been something unique to the tire you were using? I switched because a little moisture buildup inside a tire seems unavoidable and the slightest amount would create clumps in the Equal at random times and until the clump would break up it felt like I was on flat-spotted Bias tires.
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Old February 11th, 2010, 04:03 AM
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This is seriously the first time I've heard the "don't rotate" doctrine... I know many people don't as they see the theoretical tire-life benefit as negligible... but I've always used a 5 tire front to back and side to side rotation so I have 5 tires wearing approximately the same... never had any shake problems with it either...

from what I can tell all the tire manufacturers are still recommending tire rotation so the belt settling thing may not be for all tires? can anyone post something from a manufacturer? maybe I just rotate more often so they're not settling in as much??
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Old February 11th, 2010, 09:38 AM
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Brad, when they added the poly layer, it helped significantly with steel layer and manufacuturers were comfortable recommending a side-to-side rotation. For instance the BFG MT radials that I have on my 90 should not be cross rotated, however the new model can be. I don't recommend it because it slightly increases wear (but can even out the wear).
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Old February 11th, 2010, 10:59 PM
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Personally, I don't usually rotate tires because I have a tendency to wear through all four pretty evenly on my daily drivers. Its not a bad idea to rotate front to back though, depending on your driving and vehicle type. Four wheel drives generally wear through the fronts first because they are driving and steering, and if you corner heavily (exit ramps etc.) the outsides of the fronts wear more quickly. If you rotate front to back, it spreads that wear between the front and back tires, so the edge wear is decreased, prolonging tire life.

On my daily driver, which is rwd, I don't rotate them because I generally just replace the rears and the front's are still fine. Your driving style and vehicle are both crucial variables in determining whether or not it makes sense to rotate, and in which way. I never rotate the spare in though.
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Old February 12th, 2010, 01:54 AM
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I generally don't rotate because I am always busy fixing more important shit that goes wrong and with my "spare" time, I prefer to not hassle with silly FN tires. That said, on a nice warm spring day when I am in the doghouse for doing something "wrong" (which I am sure I called "fun" at the time...), I can grab an ice cold beer, pull out the floor jack, and rotate all 5 tires (I have used the same pattern, every time. Spare to front left, left to right, right to back left, back left to back right and the back right to spare). I have done this with my BFG KO's (2 sets), and BFG MT (old style) and worked great. I thought that if a tire is rotationally specific, it has an arrow on it for direction of travel. If not, rotate. Otherwise how could they give you the option to have white out or in when mounting? If you are a white out-ie and you are not a series owner (and even then...hmmm), think about what your doing. Seriously. ;-)
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Old February 12th, 2010, 06:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davis View Post
If not, rotate. Otherwise how could they give you the option to have white out or in when mounting? If you are a white out-ie and you are not a series owner (and even then...hmmm), think about what your doing. Seriously. ;-)
Of course a brand new tire can go anyhow, we are talking about
switching side a tire with miles on it.
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