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  #1  
Old June 18th, 2010, 02:10 PM
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shop to change timing belt 300tdi - DC Metro area

I was thinking about doing it myself, but I don't have the tools, time (or more importantly a place to really work on it) down in DC in my apt complex... I hate to pay another $1K into having somebody do it for me but I may not have a choice as I have no idea when it was changed last (and already had the water pump unexpectedly go).

Where does everybody recommend around here? I looked on the "get your rover fixed" forum but didn't really get an answer. Arlington Motor cars tends to have a few rovers in its lot, Loudoun Rover (said $1000), someplace else?

cost is the issue here... I'm holding off doing any actual modifications and just trying to fix/prevent as much as possible.
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  #2  
Old June 18th, 2010, 07:26 PM
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Check bushducks.com they have a mechanics page that lists LR mechanics by state and respective cities.
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  #3  
Old June 18th, 2010, 07:34 PM
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Maybe Ren Ching would do it for some $$$.
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  #4  
Old June 18th, 2010, 07:55 PM
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.what are the signs if any that it is time to replace the belt?
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  #5  
Old June 18th, 2010, 08:22 PM
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Bring it by my place in Woodbridge, I'll do it for you.
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  #6  
Old June 18th, 2010, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
Bring it by my place in Woodbridge, I'll do it for you.
There you go! Rover people are great.

------ Follow up post added June 18th, 2010 08:34 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Campbell View Post
.what are the signs if any that it is time to replace the belt?
It is age and miles on a diesel. On a gas motor it is a chain. They tend to last a long time (my LWB has 180k on it original one) but over 200k or so become suspect.
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  #7  
Old June 18th, 2010, 09:11 PM
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.what are the signs if any that it is time to replace the belt?
50,000 miles
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  #8  
Old June 18th, 2010, 09:37 PM
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When I got my truck I had no idea how many miles were on the Tdi, so I decided to replace it for peace of mind. Turns outs it was nearly brand new, but it got replaced anyway.

Make sure you do the tensioner while you are in there.
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  #9  
Old June 18th, 2010, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
Bring it by my place in Woodbridge, I'll do it for you.
Thats really cool of you, Thanks Jonathan.
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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
There you go! Rover people are great.
I couldn't agree more.
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Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
When I got my truck I had no idea how many miles were on the Tdi, so I decided to replace it for peace of mind. Turns outs it was nearly brand new, but it got replaced anyway.
Make sure you do the tensioner while you are in there.
Basically the same reason I'm doing it. After the water pump blew it was a bit of an eye-opener.
I'll order all the parts this week.

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  #10  
Old June 19th, 2010, 12:36 AM
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I would try to find a diesel shop and see if they can do it.

I'd do it if I had time but I don't, at least for a while. If you do it, get the kit with new tensioner, idler, and crank gear, change the seal and o-ring behind the crank gear, and absolutely make sure you have the timing pins for the inj. pump and flywheel.

I have heard that you can briefly run the engine with the timing cover off to make sure the belt isn't walking off the pulleys. No personal experience in that particular dept. though.




Quote:
Originally Posted by hillstrubl View Post
I was thinking about doing it myself, but I don't have the tools, time (or more importantly a place to really work on it) down in DC in my apt complex... I hate to pay another $1K into having somebody do it for me but I may not have a choice as I have no idea when it was changed last (and already had the water pump unexpectedly go).

Where does everybody recommend around here? I looked on the "get your rover fixed" forum but didn't really get an answer. Arlington Motor cars tends to have a few rovers in its lot, Loudoun Rover (said $1000), someplace else?

cost is the issue here... I'm holding off doing any actual modifications and just trying to fix/prevent as much as possible.
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  #11  
Old June 19th, 2010, 06:35 AM
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You don't need pins for the injector or flywheel, just use a correct size drill bit in the injector pump and chock the wheels in neutral so the drivetrain doesn't move.
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  #12  
Old June 19th, 2010, 11:41 AM
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That doesn't sound like best practice to me. Once you get the belt on you have to loosen the pump gear and turn the engine to line up with the flywheel notch. Locking down the IP during the belt change is just one step. If the gearbox is in neutral, what good does chocking the wheels do? Shortcuts of this type are better left for working on one's own vehicle, IMO. Sorry if that doesn't agree with you.




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You don't need pins for the injector or flywheel, just use a correct size drill bit in the injector pump and chock the wheels in neutral so the drivetrain doesn't move.
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  #13  
Old June 19th, 2010, 12:06 PM
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No, you line up the timing marks first, then lock the injection pump, loosen the tensioner, then take off the old belt and put on the new one. No sense making it more complicated than need be. Either way, to each his own.
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  #14  
Old June 19th, 2010, 12:27 PM
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Err, no. Suggest you read the manual.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
No, you line up the timing marks first, then lock the injection pump, loosen the tensioner, then take off the old belt and put on the new one. No sense making it more complicated than need be. Either way, to each his own.
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  #15  
Old June 23rd, 2010, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
No, you line up the timing marks first, then lock the injection pump, loosen the tensioner, then take off the old belt and put on the new one. No sense making it more complicated than need be. Either way, to each his own.
the complicated part is the owner having to have someone else fix it after it gets botched the first time. It's happened on here before and I've had to do several in recent history. Your doing something that will effect the engines performance for a good part of its life and once done is not just a "fiddle with this adjustment" to rectify if not correct. Scoffing at the use of correct equipment and procedure is just asking for issues. Sure you can "bush" fix, but it's not an emergency, you are (I'd assume) charging money for this service, and we are hardly in the bush eh?

Not sure why I give at shit, other than I'm getting pretty tired of fixing other peoples "bush" repairs and feeling bad for those that call with the "how come my diesel smokes and I just had it fixed".
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

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  #16  
Old July 19th, 2010, 03:46 PM
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Hey Guys,
I just got word from Jonathan (Wolf) that he's not going to be able to help me do the timing belt @ his shop.
I was planning on doing it this Saturday the 24th. Anybody who knows what their doing want to help? I'll be happy to throw some cash your way. I should have the parts in this week...
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  #17  
Old July 19th, 2010, 05:00 PM
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do you have the timing tools? I'll be out of town the next two weekends.
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  #18  
Old July 19th, 2010, 06:39 PM
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i don't have much of anything above the actual parts. Ordered it from Eric a few weeks back, should be here shortly.
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