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  #1  
Old November 3rd, 2006, 09:31 AM
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Tommy Moore
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Angry Shoot me

Ah, the love affair is beginning to erode. Bought my 94 ST (#355) in August, only had 57k miles but (as you'd expect) I've been working the kinks out of her for the past three months.

Unfortunately one of the things that had gone wrong was the temp sensor -- had it replaced twice (first replacement was bad) -- as the temp gauge was showing the truck running hot when that wasn't the case. So for the past three weeks the gauge was fine, and then last night on the drive home it swung toward the hot end. Like a moron I assumed the sensor wasn't reading right and figured I'd take her back in and get it fixed, again.

Then the good times started. About 1.5 miles later (four blocks from my house) I smelled that smell, the one you know can't be good. Turn off my radio and could hear the engine whining, as a plus it was idling really high (at 1200 rpms).

Pull it over and pop the hood, and while it smelled like a busy day in Fallujah all the belts were fine. After letting it cool down checked the coolant overflow tank and it was full. Walked home cursing and would have posted immediately but the wife had a house full of people over and I had to hide my agony. At least there was a good football game on.

So here I am this morning, sitting at my desk courtesy of my 1992 4 Runner with 100,000 miles that's never given me a single problem. I'll get the Rover to a mechanic tomorrow, hoping some of you have had the same experience (ie driving it when you shouldn't) and can tell me what's in store. I acknowledge that I'm an idiot and listen to my music too loudly.
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  #2  
Old November 3rd, 2006, 10:25 AM
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Ernie Novey
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Just some suggestions that you may or may not already know about. In my experience with over heating on my 90 I checked and replaced the following:

Fan clutch
Thermostat
Water pump
radiator (it was flushed etc and checked out to be fine via a local radiator shop)

Good luck, my toyota is also there for me as my primary ride.
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  #3  
Old November 3rd, 2006, 11:24 AM
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Andrew Walcker
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What Coiler said. I came over from the dark side of Toyota Landcruisers and have had my share of frustrations after getting my Defender. I have a project FJ55 that I hadn't started in 18 months. I charged the battery, topped the fluids off and started it up on the second crank, wish I could say the Defender would do the same thing! The PO of my Denfender was very meticulous, but I still went through almost a year of getting all the kinks worked out. Stick with it, it's worth it!
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  #4  
Old November 3rd, 2006, 11:47 AM
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Tommy Moore
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God I hope so

Thanks for the words of encouragement, right now I'm so pissed off I want to leave the keys in it and file ensuing insurance report. Of course anyone trying to steal it better have a flatbed truck.

I'll get everything looked at, guess what concerns me most is whether I ruined the engine, from searching the traffic here it looks like driving it while it's hot is pretty much the kiss of death.
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  #5  
Old November 3rd, 2006, 01:48 PM
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Jeffrey Rosbrugh
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Don't get too discouraged yet. These things are a strange love affair. Mine too is a love/hate relationship that would be best told in some perverse documentary on the insane.
Overheating is not really the kiss of death, and it might not have really oveheated to begin with. Yes, there are tons of threads here underscoring the perilous results of overheating an aluminum block engine with cast iron sleeves, but it can be fixed. Also, there are loads of replacement salvage engines, some can even be found locally in yards, if you have really done damage. You did not mention indicate if it was boiling fluid out of the overflow tank. If the tank is full, as I understand the system works, that is not concrete evidence it overheated. Coiler already hit the highlights, but I would add to his list hoses. I have found the hoses degrade and need to be replaced about every four years or do. Hopefully, when you start it up, there will be no knocks or other abnormal sounds. At least you have this list as a great sounding board for advice, and a good back-up vehcile which I think we all pretty much do - mine is a 89 Grand Wagoneer now.
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  #6  
Old November 3rd, 2006, 03:33 PM
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Tommy Moore
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Thanks

Nope it wasn't boiling fluid out of the tank so I'll keep my fingers crossed engine isn't damaged. Thankfully you guys are on this board and we all keep backup trucks.
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  #7  
Old November 4th, 2006, 12:57 PM
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Tyler
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Where are you taking it?
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  #8  
Old November 4th, 2006, 05:51 PM
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Tommy Moore
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Roverland

Roverland 4x4 in Alexandria.
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  #9  
Old November 5th, 2006, 10:19 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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To make you feel better.. when my family bought our SW we took it off road on 105 degree day and m father left the truck running on the trail with the AC cranked. Blew steam out the hood and had a small fire going under the hood. Poured a bottle of poland spring on it waited 10 mins, drove it home. 60K miles later my engine is still fine.
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  #10  
Old November 5th, 2006, 10:32 PM
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Marc
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Fortunately, the more parts you re-new, the less problems you know you will have in the future. The engine is resilient.
One overheat is not going to kill it.

When you replaced the radiator, did they replace the coolant correctly? You may have air in the cooling system. I understand that this could cause overheat? Just a thought..
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  #11  
Old November 6th, 2006, 09:20 AM
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Tommy Moore
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thanks again

Reassuring to know some engines don't melt on contact. Trying to get it to the mechanic today. Fyi I hadn't replaced the radiator, but will definitely have them look at it as well as the hoses, water pump, and fan clutch.
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  #12  
Old November 7th, 2006, 10:50 AM
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Tommy Moore
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So it was the water pump. Engine appears to be ok, Allah be praised! Going to have them take a look at the fan clutch as well, assume it will be the next thing to go.
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  #13  
Old November 21st, 2006, 05:59 PM
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Tommy Moore
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Unhappy Need more advice on this

Thanks to everyone for their help. Had the water pump, gasket, thermostat all replaced, which fixed the overheating issue. Also put in a new distributor cap and wires, plugs.

Here is the problem NOW. It sounds like crap, idles at around 800 rpm but it's no longer a throaty sound, but more like a whine -- the same sound it was making when it overheated. There is NO purring. Doesn't appear to have be running as strong either, still moves, but it whines.

Since I have zero experience with these things, but am learning more each hour, anyone know what the problem could be?
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  #14  
Old November 21st, 2006, 06:13 PM
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Make sure you use genuine cap and rotor. Put the old car and rotor back and see if theres a change. Make sure your firing order is correct, double check and check again. If that don't help than you might have to do a compression and coolant check to make sure you didn't blow a head gasket when you overheated. good luck.


neil
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  #15  
Old November 21st, 2006, 08:40 PM
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Jim Ngo
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Also check the belt tension of the fan belt. It may be too loose and slipping, or even too tight and squealing.

Follow-up Post:

Also, do you know the area of the engine that the whine is coming from?
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  #16  
Old November 21st, 2006, 09:21 PM
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Tommy Moore
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Oh even better it's now cutting every time I engage the clutch to come to stop. Starts right back up but the drive home tonight was a blast. So not only does it sound like crap it's performing like a Fiat.
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  #17  
Old November 22nd, 2006, 09:59 AM
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Tommy Moore
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This am

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimngo
Also check the belt tension of the fan belt. It may be too loose and slipping, or even too tight and squealing.

Follow-up Post:

Also, do you know the area of the engine that the whine is coming from?
Thanks for the advice guiys. Per your last question, looks like the sound is coming from the alternator -- maybe it's a got a bad bearing, do you think that explains why it was cutting off (see last post, it started shutting down on me when I was engaging the clutch to come to a stop, started right back up but did it EVERY stop on the way home last night)?
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  #18  
Old November 22nd, 2006, 12:28 PM
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Neil McCauley
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In the old days of carbueration, you could test an alternator by pulling off the negative on the battery cable while its running and if it died, it was your alternator. You can't do that on a fuel injected vehicle without risk of screwing something up. Easiest thing is to drive to an autozone and have them test it, its free and its better than the stealer's average price of $100. Having the motor cut out happened to me on my 110 3.9, turned out it was a frozen vacuum advance on the distributor, pull out the hose from the plenum and suck on it, (you should hear movement inside the distributor). Also check the condition of the hose. Matter of fact check all the vacuum hoses, including the fuel pressure regulator hose in the back of the plenum.


Neil
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  #19  
Old November 23rd, 2006, 09:02 PM
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Jim Ngo
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Does it idle OK after you restart it?
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  #20  
Old November 27th, 2006, 09:05 AM
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Tommy Moore
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Update

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimngo
Does it idle OK after you restart it?
It idles around 800 rpm, but the whine is definitely coming from the alternator area of the engine. Sorry for the lag, been traveling and haven't messed with the truck.
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