Shim guidelines for Rovertym trailing links? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 6th, 2011, 06:53 PM
seriousactualist
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Paul Martin
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Shim guidelines for Rovertym trailing links?

I'll talk to Rovertym in the morning, but does anyone know if they (RTE) have any guidelines for stacking their shims, according to the application (e.g., amount of lift)?

I'm pretty happy with the behavior with the stockers, so my initial thought would be to maintain the effective length of the stock links (hence current pinion angle), so far as possible.

In any event, it would be nice to have a good starting point....

-- Paul
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  #2  
Old September 6th, 2011, 07:11 PM
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Jake K.
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How much lift do you have and are you running a stock driveshaft? That will determine how much shim you need do to pinion angles and the other components being able to deal with the new angles.
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Old September 6th, 2011, 07:28 PM
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Paul Martin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roverchef View Post
How much lift do you have and are you running a stock driveshaft? That will determine how much shim you need do to pinion angles and the other components being able to deal with the new angles.
Right. The lift is ~2" lift with a stock shaft.
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  #4  
Old September 6th, 2011, 07:40 PM
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steve
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you need to measure the pinion angle and the output on the tcase.... shim accordingly to within 1.5 degrees
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  #5  
Old September 7th, 2011, 05:02 PM
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Jake K.
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With only a 2in lift and a stock shaft...I wouldn't use any shims. Maybe the thinest one since that stock shaft won't put up with much of an angle. If you get DC shaft then you can use whatever you want to get the pinion angle back down so you don't have oiling issues.
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Old September 8th, 2011, 07:24 PM
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Bradlee Duncan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90user View Post
you need to measure the pinion angle and the output on the tcase.... shim accordingly to within 1.5 degrees
What he said ^^^^
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Old September 9th, 2011, 11:20 AM
seriousactualist
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Paul Martin
1995 D90 ST
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roverchef View Post
With only a 2in lift and a stock shaft...I wouldn't use any shims. Maybe the thinest one since that stock shaft won't put up with much of an angle.
Bingo. No shims seems perfect here, since I just wanted to keep the same (effective) length as the stock links.

Quote:
If you get DC shaft then you can use whatever you want to get the pinion angle back down so you don't have oiling issues.
But with a CV at the output end, wouldn't the proper geometry be to point the pinion at the output (instead of having the centerlines of both in parallel)?

Thanks!

------ Follow up post added September 9th, 2011 08:20 AM ------

Thanks all!

-- Paul
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  #8  
Old September 9th, 2011, 11:45 AM
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1of40
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I have a 2 inch lift and RTE trailing arm's on a 97. I bought mine when Steve owned the company and we installed them at his shop using all three shims. To keep the vibes within reason I needed all three shims and DC shafts front and rear but that may just be my truck. What I don't like is the shims short your wheel base.
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  #9  
Old September 11th, 2011, 11:34 PM
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Bradlee Duncan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
I have a 2 inch lift and RTE trailing arm's on a 97. I bought mine when Steve owned the company and we installed them at his shop using all three shims. To keep the vibes within reason I needed all three shims and DC shafts front and rear but that may just be my truck. What I don't like is the shims short your wheel base.
Yes, the shims can shorten your wheelbase, especially if you have a DC shaft. I'm using a an a-arm extension to get that wheelbase back while still leaving the pinion pointed up for the proper DC shaft geometry: http://www.rovertym.com/products?pag...category_id=56
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