Sheared bolt size - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 28th, 2015, 03:23 PM
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Sheared bolt size

Just sheared the head off the tie bar and cross rod mounting bracket. Does anyone know what size / grade bolt this is supposed to be?


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  #2  
Old November 28th, 2015, 03:41 PM
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And... Big hammer and punch technique is not working to punch it out. Do I need to unbolt the entire thing to make it easier?
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  #3  
Old November 28th, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Ooof....have you tried a bolt remover on your drill?
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  #4  
Old November 28th, 2015, 03:55 PM
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shayne young
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Pull the other bolts out and remove that bracket....it will either come off with that bracket or stay in the frame..if it stays you have a good inch or so to heat with a torch and get vice grips onto..if it stays on the bracket then it's a piece of cake to work on it on the ground or vice.. You're gonna wanna replace both bolts anyway while you're there..
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  #5  
Old November 28th, 2015, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the rover shop View Post
Pull the other bolts out and remove that bracket....it will either come off with that bracket or stay in the frame..if it stays you have a good inch or so to heat with a torch and get vice grips onto..if it stays on the bracket then it's a piece of cake to work on it on the ground or vice.. You're gonna wanna replace both bolts anyway while you're there..
Do you happen to know what size bolts? I didn't see it in my manual.
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  #6  
Old November 28th, 2015, 04:17 PM
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shayne young
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I will pull it up for you right now..
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  #7  
Old November 28th, 2015, 04:23 PM
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shayne young
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Here is a pic from microcat
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  #8  
Old November 28th, 2015, 04:26 PM
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shayne young
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Shows sizes as being 1/2" UNF by 6&1/2 or 6&1/4
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  #9  
Old November 28th, 2015, 04:28 PM
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shayne young
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But for all intents and purposes its a 1/2" UNF bolt.. Measure how long yours are and go by that as I'm showing a couple of different lengths..
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  #10  
Old November 28th, 2015, 04:33 PM
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I took it off... Applied heat. This biotch is frozen. Almost looks like one piece. Truly appreciate the help. Click image for larger version

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  #11  
Old November 28th, 2015, 04:39 PM
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Try not to wail on it from the other side too much..you may mushroom the bolt and make it harder to get out... Lay in on the ground and give the long side of the bolt a couple of whacks to free it, once it's moving push from the broken side...
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  #12  
Old November 28th, 2015, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the rover shop View Post
Try not to wail on it from the other side too much..you may mushroom the bolt and make it harder to get out... Lay in on the ground and give the long side of the bolt a couple of whacks to free it, once it's moving push from the broken side...
Sledge hammer will not even budge it.
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  #13  
Old November 28th, 2015, 04:47 PM
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Then you haven't put enough heat into it...lol.. If time is on your side since the broken side is below the surface you can just sit it on a bench and fill the cavity side with penetrating oil and let it sit...it should creep down into the rusted section..may have to fill it a couple of times...
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  #14  
Old November 28th, 2015, 04:49 PM
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Heat bolt till it nearly glows - let it cool a bit and use a stud wrench or pipe wrench to grab the bolt.

Arm in a vise and get it to rotate first, then work it out from there.

Email if you want phone number and I can walk you through a few more options to help.

Brian@defendersnw.com
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  #15  
Old November 28th, 2015, 04:53 PM
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Have a shop press it out.
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  #16  
Old November 28th, 2015, 05:02 PM
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Whoa Bobby - what project were you working on before you got sidetracked with this?
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  #17  
Old November 28th, 2015, 05:05 PM
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I'm gonna guess mounting a front skid plate..
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  #18  
Old November 28th, 2015, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
Have a shop press it out.
Looking for one open Sunday. My 110 is my DD and I need to get into work.

------ Follow up post added November 28th, 2015 05:19 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by LostChord View Post
Whoa Bobby - what project were you working on before you got sidetracked with this?
I was mounting a puma steering protection bar.
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  #19  
Old November 28th, 2015, 05:31 PM
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If you can't find one..any shop with an air hammer should be able to move it...it's the quick succession of pulses that get it going and keep it moving..especially if you've soaked it and heated it and repeated..in prep for them to impact it out..
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  #20  
Old November 28th, 2015, 05:56 PM
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I'd try sticking the bolt in the vise and then heating it up, but you are going to need O/A type heat (mapp might work). Go find a 4' long piece of pipe that has an inside diameter that will fit over the bracket and turn the shit out of it. It will either shear or come free.


The other thing I might try is drilling a very small hole into the broken off bolt (on the broken side) and after you get it smokin hot shoot it with WD 40 and it will cool that bolt causing it to contract quickly from the bracket. It works really well most of the time.
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