Shaking on Acceleration 2.25 diesel - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 22nd, 2010, 01:35 PM
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Shaking on Acceleration 2.25 diesel

For about a week the truck has been shuddering a bit while I am accelerating, and I think it is getting worse. It seems to happen through most of the RPM range, but worse when really stepping on it. As soon as I let go of throttle, it's smooth again. I checked engine and tranny mounts and they appear fine. It feels like a gasoline engine when using too low a gear, like not downshifting while turning, then when you try to accelerate and you get the shuddering.

I hope that is enough info for an internet diagnosis.

Thank you for any advice as to what is going on here.

Jeff
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  #2  
Old August 22nd, 2010, 02:52 PM
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Is it down on power? Have you checked the fuel filter?
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Old August 22nd, 2010, 02:58 PM
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Power seems to be normal, even while the whole shaking thing is happening.

No, haven't checked the fuel filter yet.
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Old August 22nd, 2010, 03:25 PM
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Did you check your ujoints?
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  #5  
Old August 22nd, 2010, 03:36 PM
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Just to be sure... some times the tranny/tcase mounts will look fine untill you get a pry bar in to spread them.
I had ones that looked great but when moved had a big split/crack. Worth looking at.

also UJ's as suggested ^
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  #6  
Old August 22nd, 2010, 04:06 PM
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I guess I will be more invasive with the mounts and a pry bar to double check.

What should I check for in the ujoints? I feel that they need replacement because of a bit of slack in the drivetrain upon sudden acceleration that has been the case since i got the truck, but how would I know if they are causing this problem?

I did just grease everything up because of a squeaking noise that sounded like a dog chew toy and everything looked visually ok, that is, everything was there.
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  #7  
Old August 22nd, 2010, 04:26 PM
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To check the UJ's park on level ground and chock the tires. Take it out of gear and leave the parking brake off.

get under there and grab the shaft and wiggle up and done ...hard. There should be zero movement in the UJ.

Defenders have a lot of slack in the drive train, you will be able to twist the shaft but you should see no movement in the actual u joint. If there is any it is time to replace.

did the sound you have go away when you greased the UJ's? if that is the case they are probably bad.
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  #8  
Old August 22nd, 2010, 05:39 PM
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The sound went away for about a day, but came back today a couple of times.

I will do the ujoint test and misc mount test here shortly and see if they give me any clues.
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  #9  
Old August 22nd, 2010, 05:44 PM
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I bet the chew toy noise is the U joints.
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  #10  
Old August 22nd, 2010, 06:00 PM
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Is this the ujoint that I should use when I go for replacement? I know there is a debate on another thread about to grease or not to grease, but I think I would like to be able to do grease still.

I just ordered some stuff from LR Series so I might be able to add them to the existing order.

Is it worth replacing all at the same time even though only one might be problematic?
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  #11  
Old August 22nd, 2010, 06:14 PM
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Replace them all while you have it out.
Greasable... IMO there is no debate
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  #12  
Old August 22nd, 2010, 07:18 PM
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http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...5271118-P_17_R

Thats what I just bought 4 of to put in mine (check that they're the made in america ones though)
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  #13  
Old August 22nd, 2010, 07:25 PM
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that's nice to have the zerk right on the end like that. The others are kinda hard to get at.

I checked for play in both driveshafts and there seems to only be movement in one ujoint on rear. I will probably just do them all though.

Does anyone think this is causing the shuddering though? I checked all the mounts and they appear to be fine.
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  #14  
Old August 22nd, 2010, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90user View Post
Just to be sure... some times the tranny/tcase mounts will look fine untill you get a pry bar in to spread them.
I had ones that looked great but when moved had a big split/crack. Worth looking at.

also UJ's as suggested ^
The previous owner of my truck spent thousands on new drive shafts and such chasing a similar vibration - it ended up being a $20 motor mount...
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  #15  
Old August 22nd, 2010, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiftRover

The previous owner of my truck spent thousands on new drive shafts and such chasing a similar vibration - it ended up being a $20 motor mount...
Wow that's funny, well, kinda funny. Worked out good for you though.

The t-case/tranny just flexes a bit with a pry bar on the rubber bushings but seems intact. I'm having a hard time prying on motor mounts but might be better off tomorrow with longer bar. I'm sure all the rubber bushings should be replaced as well.
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Old August 22nd, 2010, 08:38 PM
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Yeah, it did work out for me. It was one of the main reasons they were getting rid of the truck, they realized they were in over their head. Not the do-it-yourself type and had to rely on dealers and shops to tell them what was wrong.
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  #17  
Old August 23rd, 2010, 08:54 AM
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One important question I should ask is, should I park it until I get this fixed or am I ok to drive around town?

I ordered the ujoints last night, but I don't think that will fix the bigger problem.
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  #18  
Old August 23rd, 2010, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpayne View Post
Is this the ujoint that I should use when I go for replacement? I know there is a debate on another thread about to grease or not to grease, but I think I would like to be able to do grease still.

I just ordered some stuff from LR Series so I might be able to add them to the existing order.

Is it worth replacing all at the same time even though only one might be problematic?
Haven't seen the grease or not discussion, these get a lot of wear and tear and have to have grease. The debate has always been about which are better; the zerk in the valley of the u joint body protected from things that would shear it off, or right on the end of one of the end caps in harms way. I had a vibration like what you describe and it was the front drive shaft splines that allow the shaft to telescope in and out. Check that while you have the shaft out of the truck. Another thing to check since you have a 110 is the rear drive flanges. Pull the rubber grease cap, jack up one rear wheel, remove the circlip and spacers washers and slowly move the wheel back and forth slightly (with the parking brake on of course)
and see how much play there is in those splines-should be none.
The last place I'd look but could be the culprit is the ball joint on top of the axle when these are completely shot the rear axle front flange is allowed to kick up and change the pinion angle which could definately give you some u joint bind on acceleration. That said when they are that worn out you know it because you get a thud from the rear end every time you let the clutch out.
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Old August 29th, 2010, 01:41 PM
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So I have pulled my driveshafts and I'm trying to get the ujoints out. They are kinda giving me a hard time. Should it require so much hammering?
On the rear of my rear driveshaft the boss that holds the bearing in place is dinged up to the point where it is out of round and I don't think I can get the ujoint out without even more hammering. Is this ok? This joint is also the worst of all four for extra play. Picture attached
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  #20  
Old August 29th, 2010, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpayne View Post
So I have pulled my driveshafts and I'm trying to get the ujoints out. They are kinda giving me a hard time. Should it require so much hammering?
On the rear of my rear driveshaft the boss that holds the bearing in place is dinged up to the point where it is out of round and I don't think I can get the ujoint out without even more hammering. Is this ok? This joint is also the worst of all four for extra play. Picture attached
It's shot... totally toast, 'fraid you're looking at a new prop shaft or find a good engineering shop that can rebuild the yoke that the u joint runs in.

Only use soft faced hammers to remove the u joint and a friend said whilst watching me assemble tools to replace a u joint that a hammer should play no part in re-assembly
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