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  #21  
Old August 29th, 2010, 05:32 PM
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Jeff Payne
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Originally Posted by mikeslandrover View Post
It's shot... totally toast, 'fraid you're looking at a new prop shaft or find a good engineering shop that can rebuild the yoke that the u joint runs in.
Wow really? Geez that sucks. It has certainly been beat up and is a good example of where a zerk on the end of the ujoint would get knocked off. But the whole propshaft is shot? If I can cut the spider out then knock the bearing to the inside I can file the yoke. It seems that might be adequate
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  #22  
Old August 29th, 2010, 05:56 PM
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steve
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It may be salvageable if you dont want to get a new shaft...but before you go any further check the slip yolk splines. If they are worn don't wast any more time on the shaft.

FYI- You can get a new shaft from tom woods for a couple hundred bucks.
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  #23  
Old August 29th, 2010, 06:24 PM
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I have my local fellow torch the ujoints out, quicker than hammering with no ruined yokes.
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  #24  
Old August 29th, 2010, 09:40 PM
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I can see how torching would be great for this. I had a hard time getting this all apart.

Would the damage on the driveshaft have been caused by rock rash or poor wear in the joint? I'm tempted to get a new shaft in there but don't want to if I don't have to. The splines appear to be in good condition. If someone thinks this is a bad idea, feel free to chime in, otherwise I think I will just fix up what I have.
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  #25  
Old August 30th, 2010, 04:12 AM
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Mike Hammond
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It's the mis-shaped yoke that holds the spider that concerns me. You'll never get a new spider to slide in there without a lot of grief and displaced rollers from the new joint. You might get away with a new yoke welded on the end of the prop but by the time you've messed about it will probably be quicker and easier to get a new one.
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  #26  
Old August 30th, 2010, 09:03 AM
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Andy Radlgruber
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If you can afford about $800 just call Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts and get two new ones made. Give him the measurements he is asking for and he'll ship free the next day. You may be able to fix what you have but it'll still be a beat up old drive shaft. Toms product is nice and heavy duty, reasonably priced, and made with thought.
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  #27  
Old August 30th, 2010, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by andyrad View Post
If you can afford about $800 just call Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts and get two new ones made. Give him the measurements he is asking for and he'll ship free the next day. You may be able to fix what you have but it'll still be a beat up old drive shaft. Toms product is nice and heavy duty, reasonably priced, and made with thought.
$800
Just get a standard one, I'm sure it won't set you back anything like that amount.
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  #28  
Old August 30th, 2010, 09:42 PM
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$800
I'm thinking the same thing. I started a $50 afternoon project and now I'm looking at over a week and hundreds of dollars.
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  #29  
Old August 30th, 2010, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpayne View Post
I'm thinking the same thing. I started a $50 afternoon project and now I'm looking at over a week and hundreds of dollars.
Welcome to Rover ownership
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  #30  
Old August 30th, 2010, 11:25 PM
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Welcome to Rover ownership
How true...
Dont worry...It wont cost that much, I cant remember how much I paid but it was not that much... call them you can get a quote right away.
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  #31  
Old August 31st, 2010, 05:35 AM
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You can still replace the spiders on the other prop, no need to buy two new prop shafts
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  #32  
Old August 31st, 2010, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpayne View Post
I'm thinking the same thing. I started a $50 afternoon project and now I'm looking at over a week and hundreds of dollars.
That was for a new DC front and standard rear. I look at it like this, what you have is busted and a $50 project is just a bandaid. Replace with better parts all the time. If you have the time and inclination to fart around with the damaged yoke then have at it. I've done it before with a dremel and it'll clean up alright, but it will never be a perfect fit and you may end up damaging the new u-joint cup.

Don't use a hammer anywhere there are bearings or they will get brinelled. Use a u-joint press that fits in a vise. It's a bit of a handful if you're working alone but it's the bees knees over a pair of big sockets.
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  #33  
Old September 15th, 2010, 08:45 PM
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I am happy to report that I am back on the road. Thank you to all who helped out.

I did in fact get a new Tom Wood driveshaft in the rear. It took about 30 minutes to make myself a drink and open the box then throw it in with all new hardware, oh and $300 buck for those who are interested. Piece of cake...

The front however was a bit more time consuming. I ordered the Part No. 1-0005 Neapco ujoint as recommended above, and installed it only to find out that it was too short for my yoke. I blame nobody but myself for going though all that work only to find out after install as I should have measured it first.
Alas I discovered that I should have ordered the Part No. 1-0153 neapco ujoint for my existing setup. The Neapco PDF lists this particular part for trucks in the 63-85 year range on page 282. My bad for not researching this finer point...

If nothing else, this serves as a reference to anyone who might change ujoints on their older truck in the future.

Thanks for all the help!!

Jeff
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  #34  
Old September 15th, 2010, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpayne View Post
I am happy to report that I am back on the road. Thank you to all who helped out.

I did in fact get a new Tom Wood driveshaft in the rear. It took about 30 minutes to make myself a drink and open the box then throw it in with all new hardware, oh and $300 buck for those who are interested. Piece of cake...

The front however was a bit more time consuming. I ordered the Part No. 1-0005 Neapco ujoint as recommended above, and installed it only to find out that it was too short for my yoke. I blame nobody but myself for going though all that work only to find out after install as I should have measured it first.
Alas I discovered that I should have ordered the Part No. 1-0153 neapco ujoint for my existing setup. The Neapco PDF lists this particular part for trucks in the 63-85 year range on page 282. My bad for not researching this finer point...

If nothing else, this serves as a reference to anyone who might change ujoints on their older truck in the future.

Thanks for all the help!!

Jeff
good to hear, I had a Tom Woods in my TJ, perfect fit, strong as hell.

Interesting about the u-joints part number, mine took a 1-0005 Neapco in the front of the front shaft
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  #35  
Old September 16th, 2010, 03:19 AM
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Oldr trucks often get parts swapped over here, it always pays to measure and not assume anything.
Glad to hear you got it sorted
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