Series III footwells in a 110? - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old September 30th, 2009, 04:04 PM
MUDSUX's Avatar
MUDSUX
Status: Offline
Forrest
Like my Tatas?
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Orlando, Fl. US
Posts: 1,641
Registry
Series III footwells in a 110?

Hey everyone,

I am in the middle of a frame swap for my 110 and will need to work on the footwells soon. Can anyone with personal experience tell me if it is possible to use Series III footwells in a 110? I was told that it is possible but it is not a direct fit and that I would have to cut/fabricate to get it to fit. I know YRM across the pond offers 110 footwells but the shipping cost is really high. I can get the Series III ones here in the US relatively cheap. Anyway, thanks in advance and any input is appreciated.
__________________
MUDSUX

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

"It is the soldier, who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag, and whose coffin is draped by the flag that allows the protester to burn the flag"
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old September 30th, 2009, 05:17 PM
ECR's Avatar
ECR
Status: Offline
East Coast Rover Co.
Just Defenders, nothing else.
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rockland, ME, USA
Posts: 4,614
It would be easier to just make new panels out of sheet steel than try to adapt SIII units.
__________________
Email:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

I do not check PMs. Call or email if you need something.

ECR is not a parts source. We are not in the mail order business.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old September 30th, 2009, 06:00 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR
It would be easier to just make new panels out of sheet steel than try to adapt SIII units.
Really?

What are the differences? Width of the tunnel (maybe)?

edit: i am just curious, I am not saying you are wrong.
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old October 1st, 2009, 06:39 AM
Hoosier's Avatar
Hoosier
Status: Offline
Chris Hinkle
More than I need
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 634
Do you have a photo of the area that you need to replace? (If it's apart, pictures of inside and outside.) Location and size of the affected areas dictate what direction to take.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old October 1st, 2009, 07:30 AM
kjva
Status: Offline
Ken Jackson
1985 110 Wagon
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Dillwyn VA USA
Posts: 352
Try a post on the UK forums a lot of that stuff has already been tried over there, I have never heard of it being done.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old October 1st, 2009, 07:57 AM
ECR's Avatar
ECR
Status: Offline
East Coast Rover Co.
Just Defenders, nothing else.
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rockland, ME, USA
Posts: 4,614
Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Really?

What are the differences? Width of the tunnel (maybe)?

edit: i am just curious, I am not saying you are wrong.

SIII and Defender footwells are a totally different shape. The vertical flat section is longer on the D and such, so nothing will go in easy. If you have to cut stuff, why buy a "pre-made panel" is my point. We have both here and it would end up costing the customer more if we started with SIII parts to patch a D bulkhead.
__________________
Email:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

I do not check PMs. Call or email if you need something.

ECR is not a parts source. We are not in the mail order business.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old October 1st, 2009, 08:28 AM
landrovered's Avatar
landrovered
Status: Offline
S. Smith
72 Series III 109 Diesel
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Under my truck!
Posts: 753
Series footwells are hard enough to fit in a series bulkhead, I agree just start from scratch.
__________________
72 Series III 109 SW Diesel, 03 RR, 98 Porsche 986, 01 Porsche 986 3.6 L
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old October 1st, 2009, 08:42 AM
MUDSUX's Avatar
MUDSUX
Status: Offline
Forrest
Like my Tatas?
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Orlando, Fl. US
Posts: 1,641
Registry
Chris - the areas are more towards the bottom and outside. Rusted through. The top and inside around the transmission is solid

Ken - I will look over there today but from what I am hearing, I don't think I will even bother

Keyser and Scott - Thanks for the info, this will save me a lot of frustration. I had no idea they were so different
__________________
MUDSUX

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

"It is the soldier, who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag, and whose coffin is draped by the flag that allows the protester to burn the flag"
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old October 1st, 2009, 08:47 AM
landrovered's Avatar
landrovered
Status: Offline
S. Smith
72 Series III 109 Diesel
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Under my truck!
Posts: 753
I just did this repair to my series III bulkhead. It took my 36 hours of work to get the bulkhead down to bare metal, repaired and primed. The footwells I was able to get were right hand drive so I had the additional task of cutting out the slots for the clutch and brake pedals. The rust I had sounds like exactly what you are describing. Next time I will just fab new ones from scratch, it would have been quicker. I am pleased with the results and now I have to seal the joints and put some body filler on the imperfections. Then a second coat of primer, then base coat then top coat. It will be several hundred hours before the bulkhead is ready for reinstallation.

It is going to be good though!
__________________
72 Series III 109 SW Diesel, 03 RR, 98 Porsche 986, 01 Porsche 986 3.6 L
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old October 1st, 2009, 09:08 AM
Hoosier's Avatar
Hoosier
Status: Offline
Chris Hinkle
More than I need
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 634
I would do it from scratch. Take floor panels out - grind down to good metal - and visualize cutting and patching with sections of flat sheet metal. It is basically cutting and welding and grinding. Thin sections so a 110v mig should do it. Important thing is to leave no rust. If you have a small hand break, you can do some fancier work with a little less welding. I can look at it tomorrow, but I think it is only 18 or 19 guage metal.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old October 1st, 2009, 09:39 AM
MUDSUX's Avatar
MUDSUX
Status: Offline
Forrest
Like my Tatas?
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Orlando, Fl. US
Posts: 1,641
Registry
Here are some pics, not bad really but driver side is rusted through. Just want to get it done since I have everything apart.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0058.JPG
Views:	199
Size:	489.5 KB
ID:	21833   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0042.JPG
Views:	206
Size:	510.1 KB
ID:	21834  

__________________
MUDSUX

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

"It is the soldier, who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag, and whose coffin is draped by the flag that allows the protester to burn the flag"
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old October 1st, 2009, 09:44 AM
ECR's Avatar
ECR
Status: Offline
East Coast Rover Co.
Just Defenders, nothing else.
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rockland, ME, USA
Posts: 4,614
Just so you can compare to your pix. This is what a Series bulkhead looks like:

http://www.eastcoastrover.com/Bulkhead.html
__________________
Email:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

I do not check PMs. Call or email if you need something.

ECR is not a parts source. We are not in the mail order business.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old October 1st, 2009, 09:55 AM
landrovered's Avatar
landrovered
Status: Offline
S. Smith
72 Series III 109 Diesel
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Under my truck!
Posts: 753
Here is mine...

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...4&l=4118d3c111

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...4&l=3910d3453c
__________________
72 Series III 109 SW Diesel, 03 RR, 98 Porsche 986, 01 Porsche 986 3.6 L
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old October 2nd, 2009, 10:03 PM
MUDSUX's Avatar
MUDSUX
Status: Offline
Forrest
Like my Tatas?
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Orlando, Fl. US
Posts: 1,641
Registry
Okay, so I recognize all the symptoms but like any good alcoholic I cannot help myself. I have been thinking for the past few days about my options on these darn footwells. I can spend roughly $150 to get them imported from the UK and be done with it. OR I can buy this:

http://grizzlytools.com/products/24-Bending-Brake/H2788

and make as many as I need. I am mean how hard can it be? The angles doesn't seem to be that hard. One sheet for the floor and one sheet for the side. YRM's footwells come in 2 pieces and look like this. Plus in the end I get another tool for the shop

It's a win-win situation - said one alcoholic to the other
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	ref004b.jpg
Views:	135
Size:	96.5 KB
ID:	21891   Click image for larger version

Name:	ref005b.jpg
Views:	124
Size:	104.5 KB
ID:	21892  

__________________
MUDSUX

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

"It is the soldier, who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag, and whose coffin is draped by the flag that allows the protester to burn the flag"
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old October 2nd, 2009, 10:09 PM
JohnsD90's Avatar
JohnsD90
Status: Online
John
74 SIII 88", 88 110, 91 110
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: CT
Posts: 2,282
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX
Okay, so I recognize all the symptoms but like any good alcoholic I cannot help myself. I have been thinking for the past few days about my options on these darn footwells. I can spend roughly $150 to get them imported from the OK and be done with it. OR I can buy this:

http://grizzlytools.com/products/24-Bending-Brake/H2788

and make as many as I need. I am mean how hard can it be? The angles doesn't seem to be that hard. One sheet for the floor and one sheet for the side. YRM's footwells come in 2 pieces and look like this:
just make and estimate them, thats what LR did
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old October 3rd, 2009, 05:58 AM
diesel_jim's Avatar
diesel_jim
Status: Offline
Jamie Austin
1992 110 Td5 CSW & 1989 MB G-Wagen
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wiltshire, UK
Posts: 1,449
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnsD90
just make and estimate them, thats what LR did
You think they even estimated?????
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old October 3rd, 2009, 09:04 AM
Hoosier's Avatar
Hoosier
Status: Offline
Chris Hinkle
More than I need
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 634
It doesn't look all that bad in the photos. If it is limited, smaller patches welded in will work. With patience you won't even be able to see the patches.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old January 12th, 2010, 01:52 PM
MUDSUX's Avatar
MUDSUX
Status: Offline
Forrest
Like my Tatas?
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Orlando, Fl. US
Posts: 1,641
Registry
Ok so just a follow up on this in case anyone is interested. I got the hand brake in a few months ago and finally got around to fabricating the footwells. I used white posterboard and my spare bulkhead as a template. A few hours of measuring and this is what I ended up with. Good news is that the side panels are mirror images of each other so I only had to make one. The foot panels though are different. The driver side is wider. My 110 is RHD in case anyone is taking notes:
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0099.JPG
Views:	136
Size:	436.7 KB
ID:	24289   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0101.JPG
Views:	124
Size:	235.4 KB
ID:	24290  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0105.JPG
Views:	126
Size:	261.7 KB
ID:	24291   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0106.JPG
Views:	128
Size:	290.3 KB
ID:	24292  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0010_2.JPG
Views:	129
Size:	261.4 KB
ID:	24293   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0016_2.JPG
Views:	132
Size:	232.3 KB
ID:	24294  

__________________
MUDSUX

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

"It is the soldier, who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag, and whose coffin is draped by the flag that allows the protester to burn the flag"
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old January 12th, 2010, 02:09 PM
MUDSUX's Avatar
MUDSUX
Status: Offline
Forrest
Like my Tatas?
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Orlando, Fl. US
Posts: 1,641
Registry
I plan on bolting/glueing the panels in as I am not a very good welder, so I picked up some stainless steel remnants at the surplus store. I think you can get steel sheets at home depot or northern tools in different gauges. Traced the pattern on then used my angle grinder to score the lines and finished cutting them out with my jigsaw.

I plan on cutting out just the rusted areas and leave "healthy" metal alone. I figure this way I can use the original metal as a "splashguard" against the elements. And since I am putting it in on the "inside" of the footwells, the panels were cut slightly smaller than the actual footwells so it will fit "into" the footwells.

Here are some pics of me using the hand brake to bend the panels. Use an angle finder to get the correct angle of each bend. Took me all of 2 minutes to bend them.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0004_2.JPG
Views:	126
Size:	297.4 KB
ID:	24301   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0001_2.JPG
Views:	129
Size:	325.8 KB
ID:	24302  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0005_2.JPG
Views:	135
Size:	329.2 KB
ID:	24303  
__________________
MUDSUX

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

"It is the soldier, who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag, and whose coffin is draped by the flag that allows the protester to burn the flag"
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old January 12th, 2010, 02:32 PM
MUDSUX's Avatar
MUDSUX
Status: Offline
Forrest
Like my Tatas?
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Orlando, Fl. US
Posts: 1,641
Registry
Here they are tested fitted. The tab on the right side panel will be fitted under the foot panel to give it some support. Still have to make the left side but you guys get the idea. All in all very easy to do. And cheap. The most expensive part was the hand brake, but now I have a tool I can use for something else. The panels themselves only cost me about $50 in materials. Of course you can get heavier or lighter steel. Mine was stainless so it was a little more expensive. I also thought about making them in aluminum but couldn't find any. Hope that helps if anyone here ever wanted to make there own but was afraid to try. If I can do it, anyone can. Of course if you are close to or have the extra money, please support our local vendors here in the States so we can have more Land Rovers running around...for a long time.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0003.JPG
Views:	138
Size:	463.4 KB
ID:	24304   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0008_2.JPG
Views:	134
Size:	318.4 KB
ID:	24305  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0026.JPG
Views:	141
Size:	301.4 KB
ID:	24306   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0019_2.JPG
Views:	139
Size:	405.1 KB
ID:	24307  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0025.JPG
Views:	160
Size:	427.4 KB
ID:	24308  
__________________
MUDSUX

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

"It is the soldier, who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag, and whose coffin is draped by the flag that allows the protester to burn the flag"
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
110, footwell, series, series iii

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Odd, Rare, and heavy Series Stuff FS "NOS" SafariHP For Sale - Parts 8 May 12th, 2012 12:15 PM
Best way across the US Mike Hippert Defender Technical Discussions 173 April 29th, 2010 04:56 PM
1974 Registered Series III Hybrid-RHD wlykes For Sale - Vehicles 5 July 23rd, 2009 12:45 AM
1974 III Series 88 SW Prototype For Sale Nil For Sale - Vehicles 0 August 10th, 2005 02:39 PM
Stage 1, series III pickup wanted m.olivares Wanted 0 February 14th, 2005 01:50 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:20 AM.


Copyright