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  #1  
Old April 16th, 2015, 12:10 PM
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David Short
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Seeking stories about clicking CV joints

My front axle starting clicking pretty bad at the RAW event. It was horrible with the tires at very low pressure, CDL locked, on good traction ground, and making turns. That is a pretty extreme stress scenario for any drive train.

When I inflated my tires back to road pressure, turned off the CDL, and drove normal road conditions - the clicking was still there but a lot quieter and only on hard turns.

I have suffered a "poor lubrication event" with my front swivel oil seals. I will be tearing into the front swivels at some level to replace the oil seals and get that all sorted out.

The purpose of my post is to find out if it is worth tearing all the way into the swivel balls and pulling and replacing the axle shafts.

What I would like to hear are stories of folks that had a similar click in their axles and that pulled the axle / CV joints and could see damage (or could not see damage) or folks that just let it alone and suffered no long term ill effects (or their axle completely grenaded).

What I do not want to do is go through the time and expense to pull the axle all that way out and see that it only has very minor wear (or no visable wear).
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  #2  
Old April 16th, 2015, 12:44 PM
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Jeff B
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David, I had a front drivers side CV clicking in the LWB Tdi truck.
A noticeable click at low speeds with the wheel turned either way.
I pulled it and replaced with a cheap Proline that I bought on this forum just a few months back.
I could not see any discernible wear or damage.


.
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  #3  
Old April 16th, 2015, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
David, I had a front drivers side CV clicking in the LWB Tdi truck.
A noticeable click at low speeds with the wheel turned either way.
I pulled it and replaced with a cheap Proline that I bought on this forum just a few months back.
I could not see any discernible wear or damage.


.
Same here but on my D1.....same results. Actually ran for 3 yrs with the clicking.
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  #4  
Old April 16th, 2015, 01:32 PM
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You may not see anything when you pull them, but that doesn't mean they're ok. In terms of future use, they won't get any better than they are now. If you are doing the seals anyways toss some new CV's in there.
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Old April 16th, 2015, 01:40 PM
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If you see heat bluing on the CVs I would replace them. I had that issue on a disco. Actually, if you did not have a stage 1 and because I don't know how much those CVs cost or how hard they are to source, for the ~$250 for a pair of normal one I would just replace them as with clicking they are likely toast.
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  #6  
Old April 16th, 2015, 02:00 PM
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CVs are cheap. If you are changing the swivel seals, swap in new CVs at that time. It is a good time to make sure everything else is working and adjusted properly and to get in goo hub seals.
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  #7  
Old April 16th, 2015, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Actually, if you did not have a stage 1 and because I don't know how much those CVs cost or how hard they are to source, for the ~$250 for a pair of normal one I would just replace them as with clicking they are likely toast.
Oops, missed the stage 1 part. He is screwed then!! Those are expensive hen's teeth.

Sounds like you need to modify things to use an AEU2522 (which are cheap, $50 a pop or so).
AEU1828 CV are they used on Range Rovers? - Australian Land Rover Owners

http://forums.roversnorth.com/showth...cessful-so-far
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  #8  
Old April 16th, 2015, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Oops, missed the stage 1 part. He is screwed then!! Those are expensive hen's teeth.

Sounds like you need to modify things to use an AEU2522 (which are cheap, $50 a pop or so).
AEU1828 CV are they used on Range Rovers? - Australian Land Rover Owners

Stage1 alternate CV successful so far

Good info there

David and I were briefly discussing this Sunday in the parking lot; I am using the Ashcroft AEU2522's in my RRC.

.
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  #9  
Old April 16th, 2015, 02:45 PM
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David Ashcroft quoted a price near 1500 pounds. - if he could get / make one.

(Sigh)
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  #10  
Old April 16th, 2015, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firemanshort View Post
David Ashcroft quoted a price near 1500 pounds. - if he could get / make one.

(Sigh)
Did you ask him about using an AEU2522 as shown above? Looks like it works fine and is simple to do. Really, if you where going to do something custom it would be to make a shorter drive flange.
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  #11  
Old April 16th, 2015, 03:02 PM
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Yea - Ashcroft suggested the same idea.

I guess I will tear it all down and give it a good look over. Dan Rao (the Rovers North poster) is quasi local so I may ply on his expertise.
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  #12  
Old April 16th, 2015, 03:16 PM
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So,,,CV experts...what actually causes the *click* ??

When my stocker was clicking I could actually see the wheel/tire jump a little with each click since it was on the drivers side.
I expected to see some kind of damage when I took it out...but nope!
I just popped the Proline in an its been quiet.

Since that is not an easy option for the Stage 1...what causes the click?
Can it be repaired/rebuilt?

.
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  #13  
Old April 16th, 2015, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firemanshort View Post
David Ashcroft quoted a price near 1500 pounds. - if he could get / make one.

(Sigh)
For that price, you might as well have RCV make you a super awesome set. They offer drop in P38 CV axles for $1,400. That is pricey, but they are super awesome-nice units.

I'm sure getting them to shorten them will be easy and then cut off the rubber boot. Good to go. Assuming P38s use the same splines.

http://www.rcvperformance.com/index.aspx
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  #14  
Old April 16th, 2015, 06:18 PM
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See here : http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=93512
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  #15  
Old April 16th, 2015, 11:24 PM
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Dave - that link gave me a lot of trouble but I finally got it to work. Thanks for the tip. I have reached out.
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  #16  
Old April 17th, 2015, 09:45 AM
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Check for a cracked internal cage inside the CV. I had it happen with an AEU2522 years ago. The CV still worked ok but I'm sure it was just a matter of time before it would have come apart.
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Old May 10th, 2015, 04:08 PM
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Balls Opened

So I have finally gotten around to taking things apart to look at them.

As everyone predicted, the CV joints look fine upon visual inspection. There are no cracks or scoring or other signs of abnormal wear. The ball itself did not have metal shavings in it, either.

The main swivel oil seal was badly deformed - but I could see that prior to dis-assembly. I filled the balls with 90wt prior to the Wintergreen trip (about one month ago). I opened the drain on the ball housing before I started to take things apart and maybe a shot glass worth of chocolate milk dribbled out. (There are twin serving-platter size oil stains in the street where the truck has been parked for the last 3 weeks.)

I think I am going to clean everything real well, put new seals in where needed, fill with fresh oil and see where it goes from here.
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  #18  
Old May 10th, 2015, 05:14 PM
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I may take the cv apart. I have not figured out how yet. Hints?


The swivel balls are actually good. The black you see in the photos is grease and dirt. It wipes off with a little effort and it is shiny and smooth underneath. The parts of the ball the run the seal are definitely good.
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  #19  
Old May 10th, 2015, 05:17 PM
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Taking them apart and inspecting is all shown in the workshop manual. I would just replace it they are not expensive.
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  #20  
Old May 10th, 2015, 09:14 PM
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He has a stage 1 v8 so they are astronomically expensive.
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