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  #21  
Old May 10th, 2015, 09:18 PM
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Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
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Dave, check the areas where the balls make contact with the cage and housing. I have a "clicker" that shows wear in those areas.
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  #22  
Old May 10th, 2015, 09:25 PM
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David Short
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Charles - you still have some loose Defender cv's in your garage?

I might drive over next weekend with my cv. It would be useful to compare and contrast the differences. It might be useful to have a second set of eyes on it, too.
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  #23  
Old May 10th, 2015, 09:26 PM
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Charles Galpin
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yup, several
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  #24  
Old May 11th, 2015, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
yup, several
Don't waste your time. You need the aeu2522's. Worn CVs will probably show wear in the form of deformation around the ball/cage contact area. You can grind it down and smooth out the channels in the spider too and this will free things up. But without larger balls to take up the slack you are just delaying the inevitable. I spent lots of time and $$ trying to fix worn CVs. It's pointless. Just change them. NAS d90 cvs are totally different and won't fit.
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Present:
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  #25  
Old May 11th, 2015, 10:14 AM
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Dan Prasada-Rao
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I've switched over to the 2522's in my front axle that originally had the Stage 1 swivels and CVs. They seem to be working pretty good so far.
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  #26  
Old May 24th, 2015, 04:18 PM
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David Short
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Time passes .... And I get back to this project. Charles Galpin and took apart my CV. It definitely shows signs of wear on all of the parts. Nothing horrible - just grooves and bumps and such.

I am deciding if I should just reassemble or go the 2522 part route. Then out of the blue my neighbor calls me. He says he is eating lunch in Asheville and has a random conversation with a fellow named Ben. He puts Ben on the phone and Ben says he operates a chain of Rover repair shops in the Asheville area and he has the part I am looking for. I sent Ben the exact part number I need and he said he would verify back at the shop. I am not hopeful - but wouldn't that be cool.
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  #27  
Old May 24th, 2015, 05:27 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Awesome man. Maybe take some measurements of both the inner shaft and outer stub shaft lengths, and see if he can confirm it's 23 spine on the inner shaft.

I need to get better neighbors
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  #28  
Old May 24th, 2015, 06:58 PM
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David Short
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I pulled the other side CV. It is better shape the first side. For Charles' reference - I could assemble and disassemble by hand.

It still had small wear marks inside the cage and other pieces. I guess I will replace both.

BTW - photo is me draining out some of the job "oil" ....
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  #29  
Old May 24th, 2015, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firemanshort View Post

BTW - photo is me draining out some of the job "oil" ....
-interesting "oil"....


.
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Just a few miles from 4x4 access!
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  #30  
Old June 4th, 2015, 09:52 PM
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David Short
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I got my new cv's in the mail from Paddocks. No name on the boxes. It is any guess as to the manufacturer.

The housings have burn marks on them where they were milled. Both joints do. I have never seen that before. Is that normal?
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  #31  
Old June 4th, 2015, 09:54 PM
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David Short
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Another photo another angle. ...
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  #32  
Old June 5th, 2015, 10:13 AM
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Jeff B
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Normal looking for new Cvs.

Pack 'em full of grease!
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  #33  
Old June 6th, 2015, 06:16 PM
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David Short
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Old and new cv. Barely a difference.
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  #34  
Old June 6th, 2015, 06:17 PM
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David Short
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One side installed (what a day)

Now to do the bolt / locktite trick and move on to the other side.
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  #35  
Old June 6th, 2015, 06:34 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Good work. Yeah, stock defender CVs and a bolt and washer there seems to be a perfect solution to this. With a cap on the end you won't even see it right?
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  #36  
Old June 6th, 2015, 06:41 PM
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David Short
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Yes - when I put the little cap back on you will never know its there.
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  #37  
Old June 6th, 2015, 09:52 PM
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REPLACE IT!!! I had the clicking on my 1997 NAS D-90 until the CV Joint (front driver's side) blew up on a a slow left turn. I had to limp it a block to my house. Long story longer, the CV joint caused me to replace the inner axle half (chewed splines) and a new stub axle (it was slightly bent). Total cost to rectify the CV Joint was 3 times as much as if I just replaced the damn thing at the onset of the clicking. My first problem was the diagnosis, I thought it was the ball joint or the suspension. Lesson learned.
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  #38  
Old July 19th, 2015, 12:01 PM
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David Short
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End of Project

I have been super busy - but I wanted to close this thread out with the final results of this project.

I eventually removed all of the axle parts back to the axle tube. From there, I started to reassemble.

The axle swivel balls are unique to the Stage One. They are basically a Series part that has been machined inside to allow for the larger CV joint (vice the small universal joint). I could have bought new Series parts and spent a lot of time trying to remove enough internal material to make room for the CVs - but I did not. Since there was only limited rust and pitting on my Stage One chrome, I cleaned with up, filled the pitting in with heavy amounts of paint, and wet sanded everything back super smooth.

My railco bushings were fine as was my axle bearings. I did not notice on disassembly that the pre-load drag on one wheel was a lot more than the prescribed 8 pounds indicated in the repair manual. I cleaned all of this up, lubricated, and put it back together using the fish scale and new shims.

I used the Defender CVs. They are actually both shorter and fatter than the Stage One CVs. The short part is handled by the bolt and washer as described above. That fatter part means that you can not slide the axle in or out of the swivel housing. It is just a millimeter too larger. You have to bolt the swivel to the axle tube, insert the CV axle, and then assemble the outer section of the swivel assembly. This is no big deal - but will make trail side repairs very challenging.

Brakes and so forth was just remove and put back together. I had the pleasure of one of my bleeders being stuck. I destroyed it in my usual ham fisted approach to repair. Eventually, I took the whole wheel cylinder off, put it in a vice, and got the stuck bleeder out.

Similarly with the tie rod ends... I had to remove the steering tie rods. I discovered that one was maybe just a little worn and the other side was destroyed during removal (pickle fork and a BFH). I eventually replaced both when I put it back together.

I know I do not have to mention it - but yes, multiple original bolts gave their life in the battle of this repair.

Summarized, the project included;
  • Two new early defender cv axles (short - wheel side)
  • New swivel oil seals with new retainers
  • A hand full of new hardware to include several BSF nuts and bolts, new lock tabs, shims, and regular SAE fine hardware
  • 2 new tie rod ends
  • Two new hub caps
  • Gaskets galore
  • Paint
  • 90 wt oil
  • Tons of brake clean

The photos below show the length difference at the hub for the new axles and other stages of the repair.

Taking things apart.....



End of the axle showing the amount of float.....






Bad brake bleeder


A little cleaning along the way....
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  #39  
Old July 19th, 2015, 02:29 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Nice job. In the future for the ball joints, don't use a pickle fork. Loosen the nut and then take two hammers, preferably BF hammers, and simultaneously strike the arm on two sides. The shock has the effect of the joint just popping out. Then undo the nut completely. Want to go wheeling next weekend?
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  #40  
Old July 19th, 2015, 03:02 PM
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When you hear CV joints start clicking its a 100% irrefutable sign that their done and its only down hill from there. The clicking is lowder when the steering wheel is turned in either direction. They're very easily rebuild for less than $100 each. Find a place on google etc..and take them or mail them in. They most probably wont have one ready to go in stock but will rebuild yours as good as new. Some vendors have them rebuild and sell them in plain boxes.
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