Seatbox Disassembly - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 10th, 2012, 02:02 PM
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Matt
1993 D110
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Seatbox Disassembly

What is the best way to separate the seatbox side. I am planning to order some replacements from yrm and wanted to make sure I could get it apart with out destroying something before pulling the trigger. See pics below of original and replacement parts. Assuming I get it appart, what are suggestions for reassembly? Any advice or information is appreciated.
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  #2  
Old January 15th, 2012, 09:16 PM
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Scott Y
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Matt,

I did mine last year, also using YRM replacement sides. First I drilled out any rivets, then I cut my old ones off using an air powered reciprocating saw. It has a pretty short stroke and the blades are thin.

Reassembly requires about five hands. To make it easier, purchase some Clecos and a Cleco pliers from Aircraft Spruce products. Clecos are used throughout aviation and are basically temporary rivets. You assemble the side with Clecos, then remove one by one to rivet. I purchased the real Land Rover rivets from Rovers North. Also, do yourself a favor and get an air powered riveter (if you have an air compressor) If you fully disassemble the seat box, including the battery and storage boxes, you'll use about 70 rivets to put it back together (also using rivets instead of the spot welds on the ends). It would have been worth it to have an air powered riveter as your hands will be a bit sore.

The corrosion you have is probably from the galvanic action between the aluminum seat box and the steel sills.When built, the only corrosion prevention was paint. Once the paint is rubbed off, when these two dissimilar metals got wet, the Aluminum started to disappear. You might want to make sure you paint the seat box parts before reassembly. I also made rubber gaskets, using rubber gasket material from the hardware store, to go between the seat box flanges and the sills.

Have fun!
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Old January 15th, 2012, 11:44 PM
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John
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Everything Scott said.

Also, important to know the "boxes" themselves are steel while the panels the seats sit on are ally.

Do NOT assemble everything first. Paint the "panel" portion of the construct FIRST, better yet have it Line-X'd. And then rivet the boxes themselves after they have been painted (Line-X'd), even better do galvy on the box portions and then Line-X.

What Scott said is exactly correct, the sills and boxes set up battery effect with the outer ally box.

If the sills are in bad shape, now is the time to get those done to........galvy and then paint or just galvy.

It's worth doing this right as this WILL go bad again and it's a pain to do it over.
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  #4  
Old May 13th, 2014, 11:38 AM
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Don Bunnell
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Bringing up an old thread.

I have a seatbox out of a NAS 90 that I bought from someone on the board. It doesn't look great but is still solid. I took the pop rivets out and separated the aluminum from the steel. My plan was to galvanize the steel parts and then either powder coat or Line-X the aluminum outside part.

Wanted to know if this was the best course for refurbishing. I may or may not go with a rubber mat on the outside. Vehicle is a softtop 110 - so low maintenance in crappy weather and muddy conditions is key.

TIA
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  #5  
Old May 13th, 2014, 08:30 PM
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Chris
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When linex is done they sand the paint finish down to have a good key for the material.
In your case that means the galvy would be damaged.
So let's rethink that idea.
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  #6  
Old May 13th, 2014, 08:39 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
When linex is done they sand the paint finish down to have a good key for the material. In your case that means the galvy would be damaged. So let's rethink that idea.
Good to know.

But to clarify, my plan is:
- steel pieces will be galvanized and stay galvanized.
- aluminum pieces will be either powder coated or line-x'd.

I was just wondering if this is the way to go for seatbox longevity on a soft top truck.
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  #7  
Old April 27th, 2017, 04:57 AM
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New to the forum and Defenders in general.
Why are the sides aluminum when the rest is steel?
Does anyone make a complete seatbox?
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  #8  
Old April 27th, 2017, 08:21 AM
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I believe Rovers North has a complete one and SafariHP I think. I believe both have the R380 (sp?) flange. I have an LT77 so I purchased all the pieces from YRM (all aluminum) and built my own. My welder cut and welded the front piece to match my old LT77 layout.
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  #9  
Old April 27th, 2017, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCMLXIX View Post
New to the forum and Defenders in general.
Why are the sides aluminum when the rest is steel?
Does anyone make a complete seatbox?
Hey, welcome.

I have no idea exactly why the seatbox uses a steel battery box (and toolbox, if your truck had a rear gas tank.) I suppose if you fabricated an aluminum battery box and/or toolbox, that would be pretty awesome.

Remember, there are several different versions of seatboxes, for different transmissions/engines and different gas tank options.

There are many vendors that sell new or NTO complete seatboxes (LRI, etc.)
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