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  #1  
Old February 22nd, 2012, 09:54 AM
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Alexandra
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Seat Heat Switches

I swear I only post about fancy creature comforts but here I am again with yet another seat heat question...

I have a kit to install and the switches are three position switches- on low, off, and on high. It's the same switch as the Exmoor kit. The catch is I want to use the correct LR switches for the tdi dash I have- the newer looking dash and the switch is only on and off like a Disco.

Anyone know of a way to modify the LR switch so that you push it once it's low, twice it's high and 3 times it's off. Or do I just have to choose on and off? Or is there a LR switch for seat heat that will work and is two settings + off that I just don't know about?

Thanks,
Alex
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  #2  
Old February 22nd, 2012, 10:29 AM
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I modified the wiring on the seats to on and off. You need a test light to figure it out. When low is on one element turns on, when high is on two elements are on. You need to wire it so that the switch trips a relay and sends power only to the high setting.

------ Follow up post added February 22nd, 2012 10:30 AM ------

And if you need the switches let me know, I have a few laying around.
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  #3  
Old February 22nd, 2012, 10:45 AM
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I used the genuine td5 switches on the exmoor kit. I just wired up the hot side as I didn't really didn't see the need for warm. I don't think there is a factory three position switch for this application.
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  #4  
Old February 22nd, 2012, 01:39 PM
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That would be great if you could figure out a way to get hi-lo settings with the factory switches! I got lazy and used the ones that came with the kit. Originally I was going to find a way to conceal them under the dash but I decided to mount them right near my seatbelt buckle. At first I didn't like the idea of drilling into a console that's NLA, but after-the-fact, I'm really happy with the result and the location is really convenient when driving.

Good luck with your project!

Paul
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  #5  
Old February 22nd, 2012, 01:52 PM
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Alexandra,

Please read through this. http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...759#post319759

I have two more of the factory switches. I was able to get the harness ends from a local guy. All you need to do is play with a test light and you can figure it out. I do not believe you can use a three position heated seat with the two position switch. I have mine wired for the high setting. If you want I can explain how to do it over the phone, just shoot me a PM.
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Old February 22nd, 2012, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjfslaughter View Post
Alexandra,

Please read through this. http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...759#post319759

I have two more of the factory switches. I was able to get the harness ends from a local guy. All you need to do is play with a test light and you can figure it out. I do not believe you can use a three position heated seat with the two position switch. I have mine wired for the high setting. If you want I can explain how to do it over the phone, just shoot me a PM.
Thanks. Makes sense. Any interest in selling the factory switches and harness ends?

Alex
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  #7  
Old February 22nd, 2012, 03:25 PM
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I don't have any extra ends but I do have 2 switches. I can send them to you if you want them. PM me your email address.
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  #8  
Old February 22nd, 2012, 04:10 PM
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Mudstuff makes an adapter plate for the new style dashes so you can use a double DIN radio and Carling switches. I've got a Mudstuff dash for my old style Td5 dash and I love it. Used two position switches for the heated seats.
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  #9  
Old February 22nd, 2012, 09:02 PM
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Psuedo-related note, and psuedo-hijack.

I'm wiring up seats shortly as well, plan to just use some Mud UK on/off switches I have. If I have a Blue Sea fuse block in my truck that is powered by a separate solenoid to turn it on (ignition lead does this), do I ALSO need to have a relay in the mix somewhere? Or is this sufficient?
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Old February 22nd, 2012, 10:55 PM
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Jason,

The reason I ran the relay is all the aftermarket stuff have installed is on its own wiring.

I use the acc wire to trip the relay to allow me to turn on the heated seats when the key is on. The power goes straight from the battery to the relay, through the fuse to the seats. This keeps the amperage going through the switch at minimum. It is not needed but it is what I did.

------ Follow up post added February 22nd, 2012 10:57 PM ------

Jason,

Probably not. I was not sure if the factory switches where designed to activate a relay or handle the amperage.
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Old February 22nd, 2012, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjfslaughter View Post
Jason,

The reason I ran the relay is all the aftermarket stuff have installed is on its own wiring.

I use the acc wire to trip the relay to allow me to turn on the heated seats when the key is on. The power goes straight from the battery to the relay, through the fuse to the seats. This keeps the amperage going through the switch at minimum. It is not needed but it is what I did.

------ Follow up post added February 22nd, 2012 10:57 PM ------

Jason,

Probably not. I was not sure if the factory switches where designed to activate a relay or handle the amperage.
Cool that's essentially the exact same setup I will have, but using a separate solenoid instead of a relay and using a slot on the Blue Sea block. The Mud UK switches are rated or 20amps ao I should be fine there as well.

But technically your power goes straight from the battery to the relay, through the fuse, to the switch, and then to the seats. Correct?
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  #12  
Old February 22nd, 2012, 11:33 PM
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No. Only the low amperage goes through the switch. I can draw a picture if needed.

I think I mis-spoke above... The acc goes to the switch then when the switch is "closed" it sends power to the relay which then allow the battery power to send power to the seats....
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  #13  
Old February 22nd, 2012, 11:46 PM
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Ok got it. May be a little different than what I'm thinking but works the same in the end. I'm planning battery->100amp breaker(before the Blue Sea fuse block)->soleniod(powered on by an ignition lead)->fuse block(using one slot with a 20amp fuse)->switch->seats.

Essentially what's shown here but with a solenoid in lieu of the ignition-relay:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...9&d=1296665701

Any flaws with this thought process?
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  #14  
Old February 23rd, 2012, 06:22 AM
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I liked the way my Duramax had the ability to have the back of the seat on without the bottom.....sometimes my back aches and its nice to have heat on my back and not my ass. My heater kit came wired with a relay that ran the elements in series (6v each) on low and 12v to each element on high. So I rewired it and used Carling/Mudstuff switches that were for side/headlights. That way, position 1 was back only, position 2 is back and bottom.
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