Seat box Seat "nuts" - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 22nd, 2011, 09:49 PM
trybul
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Craig Hobbs
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Seat box Seat "nuts"

Ok,
so this project is getting longer and longer. I have had to purchase a new seat box to put into the truck to fit the 300tdi and R380. Now the issue is that the seat box is new to me, and it appears is different in more ways then i counted. With my seat box that i pulled out of my 2.5 exMOD d90 it had two holes on each flange of the seat base, and in the seat box for the bolts that hold the seat frame in place. The new to me seat box has on threaded stud that is affixed to the seatbox for each end of the seat base. Issue, these are steel and are starting to carrode and will start eating the seat box, also one of them is loose... really lose. I want to drill them out, but if i do that i am afraid that the holes will be too large and the seat base will have alot of play which will be almost impossible to take out.. I am looking for suggestions on how to proceed..
thanks
craig
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  #2  
Old June 22nd, 2011, 11:53 PM
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Mike Simpson
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Now would be a good time to upgrade to Defender seats, in which case you could use the existing threaded inserts and just replace the bad ones. Defender seats are far more comfortable than military seats, so it would be a nice upgrade.

If you have to stick with the military seats, then perhaps you could enlarge one of the holes at each end of the seat rail such that you could use the existing (or repaired) thread inserts. That would mean 4 larger bolts holding the seat in as opposed to 8 smaller ones. The goal is to not drill extra holes in the seat box that won't be used if/when you upgrade to Defender seats.
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Old June 23rd, 2011, 12:19 AM
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Craig Hobbs
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I actually have the defender seats in it already, and they shared the same bolt holes as the existing seat box.
The new on the other hand as you say only uses the 4 bolts per base, instead of the 8.
I have new bases that only use the use the inserts, but like i say the inserts are starting to rust, and one is very loose
Once that steel starts to rust, it is going to start eating away at the alluminum in the seat box, which i dont want.
Can you replace the inserts? does anyone know?
craig..
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  #4  
Old June 23rd, 2011, 09:31 AM
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Tony Sims
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The only dimensional difference to the seatbox for the R380 is the tunnel. I bought a 200TDi (LT77) seatbox, cut the tunnel flange off my R380 box and riveted it on the LT77 box, and then cut the box to match. Why not put the R380 tunnel flange on your original seatbox?
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  #5  
Old June 23rd, 2011, 11:06 AM
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Mike Simpson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trybul View Post
Can you replace the inserts? does anyone know?
craig..
Yes. I pulled the military seats from my 110 and installed Defender seats using nut-serts, riv-nuts, whatever you want to call them. The inserts and the install tool are available from McMaster-Carr. It should be no problem at all to drill out the existing inserts and crimp in some new ones.

The McMaster item numbers are 96349A815 for the tool and 91230A011 for the M8 riv-nut.
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  #6  
Old June 23rd, 2011, 02:58 PM
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I just junk the captive nuts and fit regular nuts when one fails.
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  #7  
Old June 23rd, 2011, 06:18 PM
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Mike
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You can get any size riv-nut on Ebay that you could want. The problem that you may have is the dis-similar metals. You will not be able to get away from that. As long as you have a good coat of paint on the seat base when installing the new Riv-nut you will not have any problems for years. Or as mentioned above, drill out what you have and use regular nuts and bolts.
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  #8  
Old June 23rd, 2011, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
I just junk the captive nuts and fit regular nuts when one fails.

I wanted to do that but how do you ....oh nevermind you can remove the seat bases on D90 seats, I have corbeaus so I am screwed haha.
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  #9  
Old June 24th, 2011, 11:38 AM
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Craig Hobbs
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thanks for the insight guys..
I am going to assume that you cannot get aluminum ones...
craig
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  #10  
Old June 24th, 2011, 11:43 AM
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Mike Simpson
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AL wouldn't be strong enough. The McMaster ones are cad plated though.
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  #11  
Old June 24th, 2011, 11:56 AM
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DO NOT USE RIVNUTS TO HOLD ON YOUR SEAT. They will fail in an accident and you may die.
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  #12  
Old June 24th, 2011, 12:32 PM
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Mike Simpson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
DO NOT USE RIVNUTS TO HOLD ON YOUR SEAT. They will fail in an accident and you may die.
Can you reconcile that statement with the fact that LR builds them that way? The Genuine rivnut for that application is AWR4731.

Maybe I don't get the joke?
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  #13  
Old June 24th, 2011, 01:22 PM
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Maybe we are talking about different things, but on all defender seats I have seen (NAS and early ROW) it is a bolt and a captive nut with a decent size square plate. Maybe I am wrong, but I can't see how a rivut in an aluminium seatbox would hold the seat in a crash. It would not be a big deal on a ROW truck with the bulkhead behind the seats, but on a NAS truck or a 110 SW, I can see the seat ripping free pretty easily.
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  #14  
Old June 24th, 2011, 04:02 PM
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Craig Hobbs
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Is there away to post pics here? if so i will post a pic of exactly what i am talking about.
EvilFj, your correct on my old seat box and base, it used two bolts on each flange ( 4 on each base) that screwed into a captive nuts that were attached to a retangular plate....

Perhaps people can post what they have in their truck. I also wonder what the new Pumas have to attach their seats to the seat box.
thanks
craig

------ Follow up post added June 24th, 2011 04:07 PM ------

NM, here is the picture, as you can see this only has one RIvNut per seat frame corner to hold on the seat...
perhaps this is why they "do not meet safety standards" and can not be imported into north america anymore
C
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  #15  
Old June 24th, 2011, 04:19 PM
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Mike Simpson
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If you are concerned about the potential for the rivnut pulling through, then put a fender washer on the back side of the rivnut. Presumably your exMOD has a rear bulkhead, so there isn't anywhere for the seat to go even if it did pull out.
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