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  #41  
Old May 17th, 2011, 11:40 AM
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kevin
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The best thing us oil burning dudes can do is use quality fuel from a quality source. If you do there is far less likelyhood of water and contaminents in the fuel and the better highway fuels already contain additives.
As for the lubrication additives, if you ever get the chance to observe what a lot of these do in an engine while it's running, I think you will leave them on the shelf.
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  #42  
Old May 17th, 2011, 11:50 PM
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Clark Bowen
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Have you had that chance and what did you see?
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  #43  
Old May 18th, 2011, 06:45 AM
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Dana Hammersley
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OK how many of you have put this in with your cats on ?
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  #44  
Old May 18th, 2011, 06:55 AM
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Daniel Chapman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammertime
OK how many of you have put this in with your cats on ?
I have on every truck. Even the lr3.

Didn't land rover recommend a BG product every so many miles?
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  #45  
Old May 18th, 2011, 07:56 AM
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kevin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdb View Post
Have you had that chance and what did you see?
Yes I have and it's interesting. One caused major foaming which has a huge impact on the lubrication system. I think most of the additves out there contain PTFE ( teflon) which is all fine and well except that is a solid at lower temps and so it gets into the oil pump screen.
Bottom line is that all the major reputable oil mfgs have products with a mix designed into them. Start adding aftermarket additves and you upset that balance.
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  #46  
Old May 18th, 2011, 10:06 AM
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Luis A. Costa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevkon View Post
The best thing us oil burning dudes can do is use quality fuel from a quality source. If you do there is far less likelyhood of water and contaminents in the fuel and the better highway fuels already contain additives.
As for the lubrication additives, if you ever get the chance to observe what a lot of these do in an engine while it's running, I think you will leave them on the shelf.
I understand what your saying... I trust both Seafoam and Lucas products, bottom line is that these products are expensive so it does come down to cost!
As far as additives in reputable brand fuels are concerned, this only applies to northern states in the winter months. I am in trucking and when I was an owner/operater spending $600.00 every time I topped my tanks.... I just didn't feel like spending another $20.00 on a gl. of Lucas fuel injector/clnr.
Only in extreme temps is when you don't take any chances with jelling, so that's when I would add these products.
But most important are the oil & filters... I put on over 1.3 million miles between 2 trucks in 13 yrs and never broke down due to maintenance!

Key note: There is water in the form of condensation in every storage tank, in every fuel station, in every state...keep that in mind!
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  #47  
Old May 18th, 2011, 10:20 AM
dchapman
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Daniel Chapman
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I call bullshit, Kevin.

For one, this thread and subject is about Seafom, and Seafoam does not contain Teflon. Everyone is talking about Seafom. They're not talking about Marvels Mystery Oil, Slick-50, or STP Engine Oil Treatment. They're talking about Seafom and Seafom does not contain Teflon.

Seafom has been around a long time. 50 years or more? It's not new and no one claims it's some top secret NASA miracle-in-a-can holy water. It's merely a product designed to clean your engine and related components. Seafom has been used by Millions of people, many who are repeat customers. People use this product in gas engines, diesel engines, ATV's, motorcycles, automobiles, RV's, etc.. Seafoam gets used a lot. On just about every single car forum on the Internet there is a topic about using Seafom and there are only two types of people talking about it, 1) the people who use it; and 2) the people who don't use it and talk about how they would never use it. But we're missing the third category; the people who have used Seafom and fucked up their engine. If Seafoam was such a disaster it would seem to me that the third category would be the most vocal.

Now I'm not saying Seafoam has never caused engine problems. I could see how sucking too much Seafoam into the intake too fast could hydro-lock the engine; or using Seafoam in the crankcase for an extended amount of time could clog oil journals due to the trash Seafoam breaks loose from the inside. But this does not seem to be a big issue.

It also does not seem to be a big issue that Seafoam causes any problems at all.

Some claim that if you use a "quality" motor oil then you will not have to worry about deposits inside your engine. Well that's just bullshit. I don't care if you're running some no-name oil from the Quick Mart or Red Line Synthetic, at some point you're going to get deposits. This is why it's important to change your oil every 3,000 miles. I don't care what it says in your manual or on the motor oil can, if you're going 7,500 miles between oil changes you're an idiot no matter what kind of oil you're using. Changing your oil every 3,000 miles helps to keep your engine clean, and a clean engine is a happy engine.

You have to think about what causes engine wear. What causes the bearings inside your engine to get loose or just wear out? Bearings are designed to wear faster than your crank or cam, obviously. As the bearings wear they shed particles of metal. This metal is abrasive. Bearings wear out faster when abrasives rub across them; it's like sandpaper. They claim synthetic oils reduce friction thus reducing the amount of wear inside an engine thus you can go longer between oil changes. This may be true, but I'm not getting out my microscope every 1,000 miles to check and see what's floating in my engine oil and determining if I'm still within spec and if I can go another 1,000 miles before changing the oil. I cannot see with my eyes that synthetic motor oils do a better job than dyno oil.

Nevertheless, black oil is dirty oil. When your oil is black it's past time to change your oil.

When I take a shit I wipe my ass. If I see shit on the toilet paper that means my ass is not clean enough to pull my pants up yet and that I need to give it another shot. Sometime I use a lot of toilet paper, other times not so much. It depends on what I eat. But no matter how much toilet paper I use I still need to use a little soap and water, or some sort of cleaning agent, to get the stink off my ass.

In my D1 I use Rotella-T motor oil. I don't know of another motor oil out there that has as much detergent in it as Rotella-T. Because of the detergent in Rotella-T, this oil helps to keep the inside of your engine clean. I'm not saying Rotella-T is the best oil on the market or that it's the best oil for the aluminum Rover engines, but Rotella-T is a good motor oil that I have used extensively since I got my drivers license almost 20 years ago. I believe Rotella-T to be a quality motor oil.

Despite all the detergents in Rotella-T motor oil, and despite changing my motor oil every 3,000 to 4,000 miles with a new quality oversize oil filter.... after adding Seafoam to my crankcase prior to an oil change my motor oil will go from dark brown to black within 30 minutes.

I don't know what Seafoam is breaking loose inside my engine to turn the motor oil black. All I know if that motor oil is not supposed to be black. Clean motor oil is brown. If my motor oil is turning black after introducing Seafoam, to me that means something inside my engine is dirty and just plain motor oil, despite what additives might be in it, is not cutting it. I want the inside on my engine clean and I don't want metal particles or dirt floating in my oil and Seafoam seems to do a good job at breaking those particles loose so it can be flushed out. I can see that Seafoam is working with my own eyes.

When I add Seafoam to my plenum, I can hear with my own ears that the engine is running smoother, and I can visually see that the engine is not shaking and vibrating the way it was prior to the Seafoam treatment. I don't know what Seafoam is doing inside my engine. All I know is that after a treatment I can see, feel, and hear a difference in my engine.

If my oil pump was sucking "foam", or if solids were getting into my oil pump screen, I would hear this, too, as the engine would start to tick, knock, bang, or lock up. This does not happen with Seafoam.

I don't know what Seafoam does inside my gas tank. All I know is I've never had an issue with water contamination or had fuel injector problems. I've never had poor fuel economy (no worse than whats expected) or pinging as a result. I work 2/10ths of a mile from home and have multiple vehicles, so I'd say gasoline sits in my fuel tank(s) a lot longer than the average person. But I've never had a fueling problem. I can't say that Seafoam is the reason for this because I don't know that for sure. But Seafoam does not seem to be hurting anything, either.

The bottom line is I can physically see Seafoam working. I can hear Seafoam working. And Millions of people like me have been using Seafoam for 50+ years with no ill effects.
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  #48  
Old May 18th, 2011, 10:24 AM
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thomas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dchapman View Post

When I take a shit I wipe my ass. If I see shit on the toilet paper that means my ass is not clean enough to pull my pants up yet and that I need to give it another shot. Sometime I use a lot of toilet paper, other times not so much. It depends on what I eat. But no matter how much toilet paper I use I still need to use a little soap and water, or some sort of cleaning agent, to get the stink off my ass.

A combination of metamucil, seafoam and babywipes will fix this.
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  #49  
Old May 18th, 2011, 10:49 AM
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Daniel Chapman
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Do babywipes cause foaming?
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  #50  
Old May 18th, 2011, 10:54 AM
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no but it sure helps remove the deposits.
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  #51  
Old May 18th, 2011, 04:13 PM
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Luis A. Costa
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Great!!! Everytime I do a service on one of my cars now, some guy taking a dump is going to come to mind!

Daniel.... you better trademark that paragraph before Seafoam decides to use it in their marketing, and you'll be out of some $$$!!
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  #52  
Old May 18th, 2011, 04:19 PM
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Tony Sims
1984 110
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My impression is Seafoam made my RRC run better. But mostly I like the smoke.
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  #53  
Old May 18th, 2011, 05:29 PM
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kevkon
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kevin
1994 D90 300tdi #730, SIII 88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dchapman View Post
I call bullshit, Kevin.

For one, this thread and subject is about Seafom, and Seafoam does not contain Teflon. Everyone is talking about Seafom. They're not talking about Marvels Mystery Oil, Slick-50, or STP Engine Oil Treatment. They're talking about Seafom and Seafom does not contain Teflon.

Seafom has been around a long time. 50 years or more? It's not new and no one claims it's some top secret NASA miracle-in-a-can holy water. It's merely a product designed to clean your engine and related components. Seafom has been used by Millions of people, many who are repeat customers. People use this product in gas engines, diesel engines, ATV's, motorcycles, automobiles, RV's, etc.. Seafoam gets used a lot. On just about every single car forum on the Internet there is a topic about using Seafom and there are only two types of people talking about it, 1) the people who use it; and 2) the people who don't use it and talk about how they would never use it. But we're missing the third category; the people who have used Seafom and fucked up their engine. If Seafoam was such a disaster it would seem to me that the third category would be the most vocal.

Now I'm not saying Seafoam has never caused engine problems. I could see how sucking too much Seafoam into the intake too fast could hydro-lock the engine; or using Seafoam in the crankcase for an extended amount of time could clog oil journals due to the trash Seafoam breaks loose from the inside. But this does not seem to be a big issue.

It also does not seem to be a big issue that Seafoam causes any problems at all.

Some claim that if you use a "quality" motor oil then you will not have to worry about deposits inside your engine. Well that's just bullshit. I don't care if you're running some no-name oil from the Quick Mart or Red Line Synthetic, at some point you're going to get deposits. This is why it's important to change your oil every 3,000 miles. I don't care what it says in your manual or on the motor oil can, if you're going 7,500 miles between oil changes you're an idiot no matter what kind of oil you're using. Changing your oil every 3,000 miles helps to keep your engine clean, and a clean engine is a happy engine.

You have to think about what causes engine wear. What causes the bearings inside your engine to get loose or just wear out? Bearings are designed to wear faster than your crank or cam, obviously. As the bearings wear they shed particles of metal. This metal is abrasive. Bearings wear out faster when abrasives rub across them; it's like sandpaper. They claim synthetic oils reduce friction thus reducing the amount of wear inside an engine thus you can go longer between oil changes. This may be true, but I'm not getting out my microscope every 1,000 miles to check and see what's floating in my engine oil and determining if I'm still within spec and if I can go another 1,000 miles before changing the oil. I cannot see with my eyes that synthetic motor oils do a better job than dyno oil.

Nevertheless, black oil is dirty oil. When your oil is black it's past time to change your oil.

When I take a shit I wipe my ass. If I see shit on the toilet paper that means my ass is not clean enough to pull my pants up yet and that I need to give it another shot. Sometime I use a lot of toilet paper, other times not so much. It depends on what I eat. But no matter how much toilet paper I use I still need to use a little soap and water, or some sort of cleaning agent, to get the stink off my ass.

In my D1 I use Rotella-T motor oil. I don't know of another motor oil out there that has as much detergent in it as Rotella-T. Because of the detergent in Rotella-T, this oil helps to keep the inside of your engine clean. I'm not saying Rotella-T is the best oil on the market or that it's the best oil for the aluminum Rover engines, but Rotella-T is a good motor oil that I have used extensively since I got my drivers license almost 20 years ago. I believe Rotella-T to be a quality motor oil.

Despite all the detergents in Rotella-T motor oil, and despite changing my motor oil every 3,000 to 4,000 miles with a new quality oversize oil filter.... after adding Seafoam to my crankcase prior to an oil change my motor oil will go from dark brown to black within 30 minutes.

I don't know what Seafoam is breaking loose inside my engine to turn the motor oil black. All I know if that motor oil is not supposed to be black. Clean motor oil is brown. If my motor oil is turning black after introducing Seafoam, to me that means something inside my engine is dirty and just plain motor oil, despite what additives might be in it, is not cutting it. I want the inside on my engine clean and I don't want metal particles or dirt floating in my oil and Seafoam seems to do a good job at breaking those particles loose so it can be flushed out. I can see that Seafoam is working with my own eyes.

When I add Seafoam to my plenum, I can hear with my own ears that the engine is running smoother, and I can visually see that the engine is not shaking and vibrating the way it was prior to the Seafoam treatment. I don't know what Seafoam is doing inside my engine. All I know is that after a treatment I can see, feel, and hear a difference in my engine.

If my oil pump was sucking "foam", or if solids were getting into my oil pump screen, I would hear this, too, as the engine would start to tick, knock, bang, or lock up. This does not happen with Seafoam.

I don't know what Seafoam does inside my gas tank. All I know is I've never had an issue with water contamination or had fuel injector problems. I've never had poor fuel economy (no worse than whats expected) or pinging as a result. I work 2/10ths of a mile from home and have multiple vehicles, so I'd say gasoline sits in my fuel tank(s) a lot longer than the average person. But I've never had a fueling problem. I can't say that Seafoam is the reason for this because I don't know that for sure. But Seafoam does not seem to be hurting anything, either.

The bottom line is I can physically see Seafoam working. I can hear Seafoam working. And Millions of people like me have been using Seafoam for 50+ years with no ill effects.
I'm sorry if the thread got away from SeaFoam, the question was asked regarding oil additives and I responded. If you like adding things to your fuel, oil, or whatever so be it. Seafoam is simply naptha, alchohol and light oil. I never said it contained teflon, that's an unfortunate ingredient of the oil additives.
For the record, there is no miracle additive. Anything you do buy and put through your system may have benefits and potential pitfalls as well. But one thing is certain, none of them are a scientific miracle. So look at the ingredients, if none are given watch out.
The worst part about all of these additives is similar to that found in the finishing and protection products, confusion. Manufacturers love to promote their products as if they have some miraculous ingredient that repels, protects, is industructable, gives increaed performance, so on and so forth.
Just take a look at the actual contents.
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  #54  
Old May 18th, 2011, 07:34 PM
dchapman
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Daniel Chapman
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It does not matter what is in it. It could be ant piss for all I care. It might even be stuff each of us have on hand in our kitchen cabinet. That does not matter. What matters is it works and it's only 6-bucks.
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  #55  
Old May 18th, 2011, 10:00 PM
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Nathan Patterson
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First off, that's some funny shit, so thanks for the laugh. Secondly, you're exactly right, dchapman. Boat guys use this stuff in every tank with an occasional boost. If you don't then you are asking for trouble (at least according to about every boating forum and every boat engine mechanic I know or have read).

Anyone else looked into ethanol free gasoline in their area? I am lucky enough to have one right down the road and am just starting to use it. Here's a link I found to find these ethanol free stations:
http://pure-gas.org/
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  #56  
Old May 18th, 2011, 10:49 PM
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I run seafoam (in the tank, not the intake) every 6 months or so on my rovers and have never had a sticking exhaust valve or blown a head gasket.

------ Follow up post added May 18th, 2011 10:53 PM ------

BTW, buy it by the gallon, its a lot cheaper.
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  #57  
Old May 19th, 2011, 06:34 AM
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Phillip
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crown14 View Post
I run seafoam (in the tank, not the intake) every 6 months or so on my rovers and have never had a sticking exhaust valve or blown a head gasket.

------ Follow up post added May 18th, 2011 10:53 PM ------

BTW, buy it by the gallon, its a lot cheaper.
Im pretty sure thats not because of the seafoam.
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  #58  
Old May 19th, 2011, 07:55 AM
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kevin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dchapman View Post
It does not matter what is in it. It could be ant piss for all I care. It might even be stuff each of us have on hand in our kitchen cabinet. That does not matter. What matters is it works and it's only 6-bucks.
That's fine.
I just hope you don't use the same logic when you go out for a drink
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  #59  
Old May 19th, 2011, 09:45 AM
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Luis A. Costa
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Common guys... we can come to an agreement on something right!
Lets forget about this Seafoam and Daniel (dchappman) looking down everytime to check for deposits.... lets think of something else!
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  #60  
Old May 19th, 2011, 09:48 AM
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Luis A. Costa
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Sorry, forgot to click on upload! Here we go.... ooooo, aaahhhh!
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