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  #61  
Old November 20th, 2011, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication

It was a joke Fuckstain.
Yeah. I believe that.
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  #62  
Old November 20th, 2011, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gchinsr
Your forces needed are not balanced was my point. Suspension geometry, and physics determine how the truck acts, and reacts to every motion cycle. Just adding new shocks wont change much, and physics wont bend the rules for you. Your increased weight and length of the suspension mean you are limited in how much you can adjust the valving. You have no lee way as you are past the limits already, and too far one way or the other, will just cause another problem somewhere else. It may feel a little better in your when you install them, but you can add force on one front, and expect to fix everything. If you get a remote res set up, they will fail, just a bit longer than a standard shock, then you will be rebuilding them a lot. You would need such a strong increase of pressure to make a difference, but you will lose the ability to keep the wheel down on the road, and will most likely bounce when hitting a bump. That is the most unsafe mod you could make, and will likely get you into an accident on the road. This really seems like you already decided to buy them, and just wanted is to discuss remote shocks.
I know nothing about shocks, hence the questions. I'm not set on remote reservoirs, but the adjustable Fox's seemed like a good option based on input up to that point. What about air/ Nitrogen vs imulsion?
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  #63  
Old November 20th, 2011, 09:23 PM
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Nitrogen does not expand from heat the same as oil based fluids, so less gas build up causing bubbles, causing loss of viscosity.
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  #64  
Old November 20th, 2011, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gchinsr
Nitrogen does not expand from heat the same as oil based fluids, so less gas build up causing bubbles, causing loss of viscosity.
So what's a good nitro shock?
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  #65  
Old November 20th, 2011, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication

So what's a good nitro shock?
Ome, fox, bils, king, etc. Lots of good shocks. None to cure your problem.

....but what do I know.
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  #66  
Old November 20th, 2011, 10:25 PM
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Greg is spot on with his analysis but there is one more option that he left out: lower your lift somewhat and slim the truck down. The Land Rover is the perfect Jack of all Trades truck, offering a good compromise between road performance and off road ability but you've turned the dials too far. You've overloaded the truck and you're running a huge lift. Lose both and you'll have a great truck. Lose one and it won't be perfect but it will be better than what you have now. Your choice of gear seems to be rather "ExPo", for lack of a better adjective. 60 pound tents and all of that other stuff adds up. You're only kidding yourself if you think that doesn't hurt performance.

If I were you, I would make a decision: is this a trail buggy or a multipurpose vehicle? If you're going for multipurpose, I would drop down to 285/75 and 2" of lift and lose some of the weight. With that combination, you can still carry a shitload of crap, but slimming down will still let you do many of the off road things you want to do.
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  #67  
Old November 20th, 2011, 10:52 PM
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No way, Chris. It's all about the looks. How it all works together does not
matter. Cheaper the better.
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  #68  
Old November 20th, 2011, 11:12 PM
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Smile

I have some shocks for sale

7100 resovoir nice
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  #69  
Old November 20th, 2011, 11:28 PM
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Where is the extra 500lbs sitting in relation to the rear axle? I'm guessing from the pic, largely behind it. That's going to contribute to some bounce no matter what you do, and the effect will be magnified on the trail. What kind of bump stops are you running, and what kind of springs/spring rate?
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  #70  
Old November 21st, 2011, 12:05 AM
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.....aaannnndddddd we come full circle. Amazing. Just amazing how that works. It must be dchapman's first day.

Now, who needs a t-shirt?
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  #71  
Old November 21st, 2011, 12:06 AM
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I take a t-shirt please and some popcorn LMAO
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  #72  
Old November 21st, 2011, 05:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
So I keep burning up shocks and am now ready to step up to some remote reservoir shocks. I've run OME, ProComp (garbage, duh), and Terrafirma Big Bore "Expeditition", but they can't keep up with my heavy truck, ie, they fade pretty fast.

I have a 110 with exo cage, a ton of armor, and carry about 500lbs in the back easy. I want a stiff shock that will keep my truck vertical with minimal bounce, yet still be able to stuff a tire when needed.

What I don't understand is the valving and fade numbers. I'm looking to spend about $200/shock and mounting style is not an issue.

Ok im not sure why people dont think your shocks are your problem is beyond me, because thats exactly what your problem is. There are some out there that have had good luck witht the OMEs but not me, they are great shocks for the average expo type rig under average conditions, " Which lets face it thats where most of the web wheelers have experiance".

So if you have a pig heavy truck you will need a shock to accomodate that! I use bilstien 7100 shocks I like them because of the support i have had over the years revalving and rebuilding them to meet my driving style.

You have two factors to consider sprung weight and unsprung weight, with out knowing your spring rate you will have a bit of a gamble to get the right shock the first go round. You will need to determine the weight of the rig, both front and rear then the weight of the axle and tire combos. with these numbers you can call Shane at bilstien my first choice, or any other shock company that custom valves shocks and have them build you shocks for your current setup.

Most off the shelf shocks are not intended for 35" tires and will fade when trying to control a bunch of unsprung weight. As a test you could put on stock tires and drive the same road as before and would most likley get much further then with the larger tires before you get fadding just to prove to yourself that shocks are the issue.

It sounds to me you dont have the typical cookie cutter Defender there for a one size fits all shock may not work in your case. Good luck sifting through all the BS on the forums to find a good awnser for your problem.

When you do find shocks that work for you, remember that they will only be optimum when run at the rated loads and will become either overly stiff feeling running light or if towing a trailer or loaded heavier they will feel mushy.

You are welcome to Pm me and we can talk further about a proper setup for your rig.

Cheers Ed
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  #73  
Old November 21st, 2011, 06:14 AM
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....but what do I know.
Not sure, your vast knowledge is pointless as every thread you are involved in generally turns into some clapped out e dick swinging attempt at a thread win, and most of us pretty much tune out..
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

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  #74  
Old November 21st, 2011, 06:28 AM
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All, thanks for your input so far, with the exception of Herpes. Please, please go away so we can have a civil discussion among Defender enthusiasts.

To be clear, the truck performs awesome on the trail, will go just about anywhere, and has never let me down, all while sitting on 35s, 5" lift, and carrying a shitload of gear. None of those factors will change.

The only peformance issue, and it's minor at best, is that I don't like how the rear shocks perform. They are simply not able to keep up, which is why I was looking at duals or remotes, and posed the remote questions.
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  #75  
Old November 21st, 2011, 07:29 AM
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Funny how all the info you needed was on page 1, but you still think shocks will fix your problems. The Wolf knows best.
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  #76  
Old November 21st, 2011, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by dchapman View Post
Funny how all the info you needed was on page 1, but you still think shocks will fix your problems. The Wolf knows best.
Got it, thanks for your help, now seriously, go away.
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  #77  
Old November 21st, 2011, 08:00 AM
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Write Chris and Charles another love note and see if that helps.
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  #78  
Old November 21st, 2011, 08:21 AM
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maybe something like this?
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  #79  
Old November 21st, 2011, 08:25 AM
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maybe something like this?
Seriously? Not nearly enough. How about this?
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  #80  
Old November 21st, 2011, 09:34 AM
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For what it's worth...

From what you describe it sounds like the shock is the issue. The shock controls the movement; the spring carries the weight. (Yes I realize that statement is a generalization, other factors come into play and they work together as a whole.) When you begin completely cycling a shock as with rock crawling or any offraoding where a lot of articulation is occurring the emulsion begins to heat up as it's being pressed through the small reeds (valves).

Even though you don't know the spring rate I would venture to say the springs would have to be fairly stiff if they are supporting a heavily laden truck well enough to clear 35" tires; unless they are incredibly long with a really soft rate (unlikely). You could get an approximate spring rate by weighing the rear of the truck at a truck stop and then measure the springs free length and then again at ride height. Divide the weight of the truck by the inches of compression. Or place a known weight such as 45lb plates in the rear of the truck directly over the axel taking before and after dimensions of the spring. This is not very accurate but unless you have a press and a large set of scales it will give you a ball park.

On my 94 ST I ran a 2" remote reservoir Fox Shox. The valving was 85/95 which is what Fox recomended based on the specification I gave them. At the time (10yrs ago) I could tell you the sprung and unsprung weight of each corner of my truck. They worked great from the start. I would strongly recomend contacting the manufacture of the shock you choose. Ask to speak the the technical department not the sales staff.

Another good resource, I don't know if he's around, would be Chris Hinkle. I'm fairly certain he's tried just about every shock and spring on the market.
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