Sand Blasting, good or bad? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 19th, 2015, 11:19 AM
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Samer Hijazi
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Sand Blasting, good or bad?

Both the interior (behind the door panel) and exterior of the rear door on my D110 has some surface rust and some paint bubbling, enough to warrant a repaint.

The nooks and crannies on the inside have me concerned about not being able to completely eradicate the rust, so I am considering having the door sandblasted completely down to bare aluminum.

Is this a good or bad idea, especially that it's aluminum we're talking about, which tends to be softer than steel. What are the pitfalls if any? What do you recommend?
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  #2  
Old May 19th, 2015, 11:22 AM
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You can't sand blast aluminum. It will warp from the heat.

You need to soda blast. You really need, though, to remove the aluminum skin and properly paint the frame first and then make sure it is isolated from the skin, to do things properly.
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  #3  
Old May 19th, 2015, 11:34 AM
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Yeah. What Red said.
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  #4  
Old May 19th, 2015, 11:35 AM
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John,

Thanks for the quick reply. Removing the aluminum skin require "opening up" the folds in order to separate the frame from the panel, correct? That's a little bit more "involved" than I had anticipated. Mind you I am not trying to cut corners, I want this done right.

What about having the paint stripped instead of soda blasting? Will this do the trick? What do you mean by: make sure it is isolated from the skin?
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  #5  
Old May 19th, 2015, 11:47 AM
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You can strip. Soda blasting is the easiest. Soda blast and repaint is the simplest.

The aluminum and steel can't touch. If they do, then you get galvanic corrosion and the aluminum disappears.
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  #6  
Old May 19th, 2015, 12:25 PM
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Removing the skin (and reinstalling) is not a big deal. It's worhwhile as then you can sand blast the frame and even galvanize if you wish. I think it took me 10 minutes to remove the skin and it came off undamaged. Replacement skins are also available if yours is too corroded.
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  #7  
Old May 19th, 2015, 12:39 PM
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John,

Thanks for the reply. Just so that I'm clear and because this would be my 1st time doing this, removing the skin entails undoing the folds at the perimeter of the door, and separating the 2 halves from each other. Correct?

Any special tool for that? Any pointers you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
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  #8  
Old May 19th, 2015, 12:53 PM
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You are correct. I used a big screwdriver, but I'm sure there is something better. A wider tool would have made the job easier. Just work your way across the folds.

The skin is in two pieces. Remove the top piece first as it overlaps the lower piece slightly. Take your time as the skins are pretty thin and dent\deform easily.

To reinstall, I used a wooden block and a hammer to press the folds back down.

I just checked some of the usual suspects and couldn't find skin pieces available. If anyone knows a source, that would be great.
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Old May 19th, 2015, 01:08 PM
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Thank you John, exactly the information I was looking for.
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  #10  
Old May 21st, 2015, 01:10 PM
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For those of you who have undertaken a similar refurbishing/freshening of the rear door, while I have the door apart, are there any recommended upgrades you would recommend, such as to the hardware, hinges, washer pump, wiring, sound deadening, etc...?
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  #11  
Old May 21st, 2015, 01:32 PM
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Galvanize the steel.
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  #12  
Old May 22nd, 2015, 01:15 AM
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Saner: will you photo-document your project? I'm planning this route in a few months and have similar questions that you posted.

I did find a website when I was researching it a few months ago.

http://www.landyworld.co.uk/defender...er-door-frame/
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  #13  
Old May 22nd, 2015, 01:32 AM
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Jason, will do. I already have some pics before disassembly. I will start a separate thread.
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  #14  
Old May 22nd, 2015, 02:01 PM
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Here's a link to the new thread: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ore-62411.html
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