Woohoo! I did the rear drum to disc brake conversion this weekend, using all land rover parts, and am very excited about the outcome. Thank to Keith at Rovertracks for all his guidance.
There is no instructions on this, as it requires a mix of Defender 90, Disco I and RRC parts, so if anyone has questions, you can refer to Keith or I if your interested.
Few top roadblocks/lessons learned:
1) not all Type 37 bearings are the same. I bought a full set of replacement bearings from NAPA, to replace what I had as generally preventive measure, and not a single one of them would fit on my rear spindles, despite the fact that they had the same ID as the US made Timkens that were already in there (which would comfortably slide on and off the spindles). I will never buy anything but Land Rover and/or Timken bearings again.
2) Make sure I have all the parts up front, to include bolts. I had forgotten to order the bolts that mount the rotors to the hub. Those bolts, as well as the member to hub bolts are all hardened grade 10 quality M10 x 1.50. With the first axle completely apart, I had to run all over the place to find an equivalent. Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware and NAPA don't stock M10 x 1.50 in grade 10 equivalent. I had to use grade 8 temporarily to get by. Don't be me.
3) Get a tap and die for M10 x 1.50 and keep it as part of the standard tool kit. Just about every bolt/nut/thread on the salisbury is that size/thread combo. I was installing a used RRC hub (varies from the 110 hub in that it has the threaded holes for the rotor) and the drive member holes were crudded. I ended up overtorqueing a bolt and snapping it off. What a PITA that was. After hours of attempting to drill out the bolt remains (and breaking multiple drill bits in process), I gave up. Running 4 bolts and tracking down a new hub. I quickly bought a metric tap and die set that night. Next morning taped and the holes on the other hub to clean them up and freshen the threads, and did the same to all the drive member bolts. Went together like a charm.
New brake system works great. My drum pads clunked because they were so worn, and now my brakes are nice, tight and quiet. I love that the new calipers have the drop in pads, making the next change quick and easy.
Thanks Keith! You da man.
There is no instructions on this, as it requires a mix of Defender 90, Disco I and RRC parts, so if anyone has questions, you can refer to Keith or I if your interested.
Few top roadblocks/lessons learned:
1) not all Type 37 bearings are the same. I bought a full set of replacement bearings from NAPA, to replace what I had as generally preventive measure, and not a single one of them would fit on my rear spindles, despite the fact that they had the same ID as the US made Timkens that were already in there (which would comfortably slide on and off the spindles). I will never buy anything but Land Rover and/or Timken bearings again.
2) Make sure I have all the parts up front, to include bolts. I had forgotten to order the bolts that mount the rotors to the hub. Those bolts, as well as the member to hub bolts are all hardened grade 10 quality M10 x 1.50. With the first axle completely apart, I had to run all over the place to find an equivalent. Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware and NAPA don't stock M10 x 1.50 in grade 10 equivalent. I had to use grade 8 temporarily to get by. Don't be me.
3) Get a tap and die for M10 x 1.50 and keep it as part of the standard tool kit. Just about every bolt/nut/thread on the salisbury is that size/thread combo. I was installing a used RRC hub (varies from the 110 hub in that it has the threaded holes for the rotor) and the drive member holes were crudded. I ended up overtorqueing a bolt and snapping it off. What a PITA that was. After hours of attempting to drill out the bolt remains (and breaking multiple drill bits in process), I gave up. Running 4 bolts and tracking down a new hub. I quickly bought a metric tap and die set that night. Next morning taped and the holes on the other hub to clean them up and freshen the threads, and did the same to all the drive member bolts. Went together like a charm.
New brake system works great. My drum pads clunked because they were so worn, and now my brakes are nice, tight and quiet. I love that the new calipers have the drop in pads, making the next change quick and easy.
Thanks Keith! You da man.