Salsibury rear disc brake conversion merged threadfest - Page 6 - Defender Source
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  #101  
Old November 7th, 2012, 01:12 PM
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I used FRC8540 stubs and late 80s RRC hubs.
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  #102  
Old November 7th, 2012, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
OK I'm more messed up than ever it seems. I was looking at the rear axle again on Monday and it seems all wrong. The hubs I have fit on the (drum) stub axles OK, except that the stub seems to stick out past the hub an awful lot so that I can't get a drive flange on it. The other thing is that the brake disc is so far inboard that I have washers spacing away the 3306 bracket from the axle flange by about 5mm. And the bracket doesn't line up with the holes in the flange too well, the bolts are really getting distorted when I run them in. I don't have a caliper that seems to fit. I am pretty much at square one with this and I have no clue what to do next. I can find a whole bunch of part numbers for the Salisbury disc parts on numcat, but none of them appear in any vendor's websites, or the ones that do are for one side and the other side is unavailable. Makes ordering them very difficult.
So I am gathering that Disco stubs and hubs are what I want, but I don't know which part numbers to look for. There seem to be at least three types for Disco. If anyone can offer some help I'm all for it. Ready to junk what I have and start all over. What I have that is absolutely known: 3306 brackets x 2 unmilled, OE Salisbury drum stub axles. The other stuff I have no idea what it is, what year, what vehicle it came from or anything.
This thread makes it seem like it's so easy to do this, but I am having no end of bother. And I have yet to find the right axle shafts.

Bill, give Keith a call. He can set you straight in one conversation and tell you what's wrong and how to fix it.
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  #103  
Old November 7th, 2012, 01:48 PM
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Oh yeah, you did tell me that! I can't find a part number for those tho....
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  #104  
Old November 7th, 2012, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander

Bill, give Keith a call. He can set you straight in one conversation and tell you what's wrong and how to fix it.
Ditto, he added clarity to my confusion on my conversion.
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  #105  
Old November 7th, 2012, 02:43 PM
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I have non-ABS RRC hubs on mine thanks to Keith's advice.
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  #106  
Old November 7th, 2012, 02:57 PM
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Yeah I have non ABS RRC hubs and the stubs stick way out. I guess I need a different kind of stub? What else works on a Sals besides the drum stubs?
I wish there was a diagram with part numbers and all. I am trying to absorb all this and my worthless artist mind can't seem to get it.
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  #107  
Old November 7th, 2012, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea
Yeah I have non ABS RRC hubs and the stubs stick way out. I guess I need a different kind of stub? What else works on a Sals besides the drum stubs?
I wish there was a diagram with part numbers and all. I am trying to absorb all this and my worthless artist mind can't seem to get it.
My understanding is there are two different combinations of stubs and hubs that will work. What those are escapes me.
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  #108  
Old February 8th, 2013, 01:02 AM
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Andrew Najarian
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Question for those who've done this. I have the hubs, brackets and calipers but can I use D90 rear rotors or are they different than the rrc/d1 rears everyone mentions? I bought new d90 front calipers so it would be nice if I can just use all d90 rotors & pads now
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  #109  
Old February 8th, 2013, 06:29 AM
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I used d-90 brakes all around.
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  #110  
Old February 8th, 2013, 06:36 AM
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Pretty sure you can use D90/D1/RRC rotors.
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  #111  
Old February 8th, 2013, 11:58 AM
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Ok cool, thanks. I just wanted to be sure before ordering.
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  #112  
Old July 19th, 2013, 11:21 AM
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No machining needed for the following:
Stub Axles: Range Rover Classic rear, ABS or non ABS no matter. Need the shorter stub with the narrower bearing distance. I used 1993 ones from an ABS equipped truck. FTC3154
Hubs: Ditto above
Caliper bracket: FTC3306
Rotors: stock 110/RRC LR017953
Rotor Bolts: UYG500030
Calipers: STC1268 (right) STC1269 (left)
Pads: SFP000250
Caliper Bolts: FTC3375
Drive Flange: RUC105200
I reused the axles, snap rings and installed new plastic end caps; FTC5414
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  #113  
Old July 19th, 2013, 11:34 AM
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Stub Axles: Range Rover Classic rear, ABS or non ABS no matter. Need the shorter stub with the narrower bearing distance. I used 1993 ones from an ABS equipped truck. STC3154

The stub axle from everything but a Salisbury and a Defender P38 Axle locates on an internal diameter of the mounting flange. All Salisbury axles locate on teh outside diameter of teh mounting flange. The stubs are not interchangable.

STC3154 is a foam pad fro teh AC/heater unit.

The rest replicates the later factory set but and it's expensive.

Plus what about your axle shafts, in some lockers like ARb and perhaps even the detroit locker there will issues in length.
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  #114  
Old July 19th, 2013, 11:59 AM
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No lockers, so reused axles.
Fixed stub axle part #
Calipers are less than 30 UKP each. Can't say how much the shipping was exactly cz they came with other items in a bigger shipment, which was 30UKP shipping.

Dunno Keith. It's all together and lines up perfectly. I made sure to check the location of the stub on the axle housing. If it's off by any, I can't measure it.
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  #115  
Old July 19th, 2013, 12:08 PM
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Heres a good comparison.
The stub on the left pilots on the OD of the mounting flange on a Salisbury from Series 3 all the way to P38 Axle.
The stub on the right is is how all Disc Brake Rover type axle ends work. The pilots on the ID of the mounting flange.
These pilots not only locate the axle but provide the strength in the joint, the bolts alone provide very little strength.

I'm not saying there isn't an anomoly out there but I've only seen it this one way.
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  #116  
Old October 21st, 2013, 10:01 PM
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Ok, so I'm finally installing all this stuff and one thing is surprising me. The stub axle appears to e too short for the jam-but to fully thread on.

I'm not concerned as it does go on a few threads and it is only a jam-nut, not load bearing. Did everyone else experience this? Are some of you changing the stub axle too?

Here is a pic. This is a NAS 110 with rrc pre abs hubs.
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  #117  
Old October 21st, 2013, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stmpede View Post
Ok, so I'm finally installing all this stuff and one thing is surprising me. The stub axle appears to e too short for the jam-but to fully thread on.

I'm not concerned as it does go on a few threads and it is only a jam-nut, not load bearing. Did everyone else experience this? Are some of you changing the stub axle too?

Here is a pic. This is a NAS 110 with rrc pre abs hubs.
Yeah, that's no bueno.
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  #118  
Old October 21st, 2013, 11:17 PM
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I couldn't make it work using the drum stub axles. Try the ABS hubs with the narrower bearing distance.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
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  #119  
Old October 22nd, 2013, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
I couldn't make it work using the drum stub axles. Try the ABS hubs with the narrower bearing distance.
Bill, have you finished yours yet? I got all the parts here (I think) and want to give it a go.
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  #120  
Old October 22nd, 2013, 12:50 AM
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Speaking of this conversion, I realized the rear hubs take an older slightly different size bolt for the drive flanges - does anyone have 12-15 of these I can buy?
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