Salsibury rear disc brake conversion merged threadfest - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old August 26th, 2008, 10:33 AM
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Who put on your rotors? Make sure the wheel bearings were set properly.

Please PM me on the brackets.
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  #22  
Old August 26th, 2008, 03:58 PM
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Robison Service, so I assum it was done right. I haven't had a chance to putz with it.
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  #23  
Old August 28th, 2008, 03:40 AM
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Mark - Great info on the conversion. Thanks for posting.

One question: The information I have (from Keith as well, I think) is to mill 0.140" off the caliper brackets. Not sure if 40-thou will make any difference, but just thought I'd double-check.
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  #24  
Old August 28th, 2008, 07:36 AM
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Keith also told me .100 to .140, he leaned more toward .100 which is what I shaved off.
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  #25  
Old August 28th, 2008, 09:42 AM
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During the conversion with my head in the wheelwell, the logic behind the machining became clear to me. It is not evident as you install the bracket onto the axle/stub assembly, but as I was installing the caliper onto the bracket, with the rotor already in place, you can clearly see how the machining can vary the position of the rotor within the squared out channel in the caliper. Ideally, you would want the rotor perfectly centered as it passes through the caliper (look at the rotor from the long end, and you will see a squared out channel that runs the length of it..kind of like the photon torpedo run by Luke Skywalker on the death star attack. The rotor being Luke's Xwing fighter). If your machining is off, the rotor won't be centered, and might rub on either side of that channel. Mine rubbed on one side just a tad bit on the outside, just enough to make a little knows when the rotor spins by hand. That will wear quickly as it is minor. If the machining had been a little higher, it would have been more towards center, and enough to pull the rotor farther away from the outside channel. My guess is it can really vary due to minor variations in the parts involved (axle, rotor, caliper,caliper bracket). I would take Keith's advice, as if you went .100, and it rubs slightly, you can take more off incrementally. If you go .140, and it is rubbing on the inside...then your talking spacers or new bracket.

I will take pictures to illustrate this when my replacement hub comes in, since I have to swap my right rear hub out due to the broken bolt.
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  #26  
Old August 28th, 2008, 10:01 AM
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I'm going to pull the entire axle to do this, so it will be easier to take pix. My stuff is so ugly that it needs a good blast and paint.

I also plan to put the vented rotors on the front - does anyone know if the front rotors can just be moved to the back?
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  #27  
Old August 28th, 2008, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
I'm going to pull the entire axle to do this, so it will be easier to take pix. My stuff is so ugly that it needs a good blast and paint.

I also plan to put the vented rotors on the front - does anyone know if the front rotors can just be moved to the back?
My guess is not because the caliper bolt spacing is longer than the RRC/D1/D90.
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  #28  
Old August 28th, 2008, 10:56 AM
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Jim,
I just painted my front transplant axle and radius arms with some gloss black epoxy frame paint I bought from Eastwood Co. I am pleasantly surprised @ how well it covers and how hard it dries (takes 72 hrs). The stuff is supposed to handle brake fluid spills.
Time will tell. On the frame I have been using zinc chromate primer (cold galvanize) under the frame paint. Trying to get another 25yrs out of that frame.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...roductID=14348
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  #29  
Old August 28th, 2008, 01:14 PM
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Different conversion solutions ...

Can anyone tell me the major difference between this conversion and the one posted here ?

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=11685

Thanks

Pat
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  #30  
Old August 28th, 2008, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Retrofit
Can anyone tell me the major difference between this conversion and the one posted here ?

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=11685

Thanks

Pat
He fabs up that spacer to move the caliper inboard when mounted. that's the opposite direction of what shaving the bracket would do (move caliper outboard). my guess is the 110 rear caliper is slightly different from the D90/Disco I rear calipers Keith recommended I used. I'm a fan. The only fab I had to do was put a 90 deg bend in the solid brake line to enter the caliper, as the drum brake piston requires a different angle.

The pics represent the overall concept well though. I did use that link as a reference during my conversion for positioning of the bracket and overall concept, but that whole spacer thing is not necessary for Keith's method.

D90/Disco 1 calipers are going to be much easier to source out here, and just as effective. Having gone a week, I am very pleased with my braking now.
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  #31  
Old August 28th, 2008, 11:34 PM
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The 110/130 rear caliper is about twice the size of the disco/90 rear caliper.
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  #32  
Old August 29th, 2008, 10:25 AM
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Wow...

Just a few notes from the workbench.. I have found that .120" off the caliper bracket on the caliper mounting side is as good as it's going to get.

The Defender Rear caliper has 42 mm pistons the Disco1/D90 rear caliper 38MM pistons I found very little difference (if any) in stopping power when I changed from Disco to 110 calipers on my Disco with the standard master cylinder. The other reason for using the Disco caliper is cost, Disco $40 110 rear $170 to $300 when they are available, sure you could probably bring them over but in my mind the difference wasn't worth the $$$.
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  #33  
Old August 29th, 2008, 10:36 AM
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Reason I ask is that I've got a full set of D90 calipers sitting in the garage - I want to use them all on the 110.
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  #34  
Old August 29th, 2008, 10:41 AM
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My experience so far, is that the D90 rear calipers are PLENTY of stopping power for my 110. I can't imagine needing any more, and agree you wouldn't get much incremental out of going larger, even fully ladden.
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  #35  
Old August 29th, 2008, 05:14 PM
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Do it Jim!!
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  #36  
Old August 29th, 2008, 05:18 PM
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Keith - can I buy the brackets from you? It would save me some trouble.
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  #37  
Old August 30th, 2008, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander
He fabs up that spacer to move the caliper inboard when mounted. that's the opposite direction of what shaving the bracket would do (move caliper outboard). my guess is the 110 rear caliper is slightly different from the D90/Disco I rear calipers Keith recommended I used. I'm a fan. The only fab I had to do was put a 90 deg bend in the solid brake line to enter the caliper, as the drum brake piston requires a different angle.

The pics represent the overall concept well though. I did use that link as a reference during my conversion for positioning of the bracket and overall concept, but that whole spacer thing is not necessary for Keith's method.

D90/Disco 1 calipers are going to be much easier to source out here, and just as effective. Having gone a week, I am very pleased with my braking now.


It was me, diesel_jim (Jamie!) that did that tech article.

yes, i used D110 rear calipers, as they're quite a bit bigger the D90 ones (although i'm sure D90 ones would do the job just fine, if you wern't fully loaded all the time carting a trailer behind), also the rangerover classis calipers could fit, although these are a bit small.

I kept the original drum braked salisbury stub axles in place, as an early 90/110 front hub will fit straight on (these are plentyful in the UK, not sure about the US) so keeps cost down and makes the job easier.

the caliper bracket is quite a beefy affair, and that also makes the job easier, more or less bolt on, apart from the spacer.

Another good thing about the way i did it, is that you can keep the existing drive flanges and half shafts (axle shafts), thus reducing costs again.

I've since sold that axle on, to a friend of mine (with a 110) with a 4.5litre V8, so gies pretty well, the axle is performing perfectly.

Shout if anyone's got any questions.
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  #38  
Old August 31st, 2008, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
Keith - can I buy the brackets from you? It would save me some trouble.

yes but I'll have to order some up the be machined.
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  #39  
Old October 28th, 2008, 01:53 PM
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If one completes this conversion do alloys then fit the hubs or do the hubs and halfshalfts also require modifications?
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  #40  
Old October 28th, 2008, 02:30 PM
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Using the original drum braked shafts, then the alloys won't fit on (unless you don't mind popping the center cap off and maybe filing out the wheel a little so it doesn't mash up on the hub.
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