Salisbury Rebuild - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 25th, 2013, 11:10 PM
Shearpin
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Henry Stinson
'73 Series III SWB '84 110 tdi
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Salisbury Rebuild

Any guidance on rebuilding/other options with a Salisbury differential?

I am getting increased metal flake in my oil changes and know it is high mileage. My family depends on the 110 so I'd like to sort it out before winter sets in. I like to do things myself, but, have read these are difficult to work with.

Are rebuilt centres an option? It looks as though the patterning is done with the differential in the vehicle. I admit I am intimidated by this process. I have been searching for retailers offering rebuilt centres without luck, I assume the reason is you can't ship a patterned unit for install?

If I were to purchase a True Trac, for example, I assume it would simplify the rebuild - the centre would come as a unit?

Thanks in advance for any advice, I may have to surrender to paying someone else to do this job.

Henry
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  #2  
Old September 26th, 2013, 12:39 AM
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Any diff shop is able to do it as the Salisbury is for all intents and purposes a Dana 60. Instructions are online if you want to try it yourself.

The question is why you are getting shavings. I cannot possibly believe it is from the center carrier as I have never seen one break (it is a four pin diff). The ring and pinions also seems vanishingly unlikely. I would look at the pinion hearing as that is all I have seen to bad. The stock seal is leather and leaks badly and the pinion gets starved for oil. Does the pinion leak? There is a Dana 60 seal that works. Check pirate4x4 for the part number.
I
If it is not making noise, even if I relied on the truck to get around, I would not touch it. If it breaks you can always lock the center diff and pull the rear driveshaft to keep moving.

Short of trucks that have had water/mud in the housing for a long time (remember that crap pinion seal), and worn out drive flanges, the center part of a sals is basically indestructible on a stock rover.
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Old September 26th, 2013, 08:17 AM
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Doug Crowther
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Any diff shop is able to do it as the Salisbury is for all intents and purposes a Dana 60. Instructions are online if you want to try it yourself.

The question is why you are getting shavings. I cannot possibly believe it is from the center carrier as I have never seen one break (it is a four pin diff). The ring and pinions also seems vanishingly unlikely. I would look at the pinion hearing as that is all I have seen to bad. The stock seal is leather and leaks badly and the pinion gets starved for oil. Does the pinion leak? There is a Dana 60 seal that works. Check pirate4x4 for the part number.
I
If it is not making noise, even if I relied on the truck to get around, I would not touch it. If it breaks you can always lock the center diff and pull the rear driveshaft to keep moving.

Short of trucks that have had water/mud in the housing for a long time (remember that crap pinion seal), and worn out drive flanges, the center part of a sals is basically indestructible on a stock rover.

Have to agree- the Only rover part I haven't broken. I have broken both axle shafts but never a salisbury diff. A detroit is a direct replacement and the job takes only an hour or so. Only re uses the carrier and ring and pinion, all spiders and pins are deleted.
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  #4  
Old September 26th, 2013, 12:49 PM
Shearpin
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Henry Stinson
'73 Series III SWB '84 110 tdi
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Thanks for the replies - the oil from my last oil changed looked like a metalflake paint job. Something is coming apart. I was concerned how swimming in it would affect the other internals.

I can't have too much down time with the truck. My alternate transportation is my Series III and the family doesn't all fit in it - makes for some mutinous weekends. For this reason, whenever I take anything apart I try and have everything I need to put it back together. Anticipating gets expensive.

There is no play in the pinion bearing. Does that rule out it out as the cause?

It might be time to find a local mechanic; it will be the first time anothers touched it in 6 years of ownership.

Henry
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Old September 26th, 2013, 01:23 PM
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Is it just silver or are there actually metal shavings?

I would pull the diff cover and see if there was any play in the carrier side to side or front to back. It should be pretty tight (there will be some backlash radially along the ring gear). If that checks out and there are no metal chunks in the bottom or chipped teeth or anything obvious, I would get some Prussian blue and check the gear pattern (how tos are all over and Prussian blue is cheap for a tube). If that checks out, I would be satisfied nothing was really wrong or that it is just getting old and should be rebuilt with new bearings.

Another possibility is you have a bad wheel bearing and have wet hubs and that bearing is putting the metal into the diff. Again, seems really unlikely unless you are running wet hubs (letting diff oil lube the wheel bearings rather than grease not sure that is even possible but I have heard people do it).
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  #6  
Old September 26th, 2013, 01:42 PM
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I cannot help with your problem but I'm constantly fascinated/impressed by the wealth of knowledge on this board....
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