Salisbury Detroit locker install how to - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 16th, 2009, 05:27 PM
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Salisbury Detroit locker install how to

Anyone have a write up? I have "heard" you just pop it out and pop it back in as there is no need to reset up the gears but I don't know.

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  #2  
Old March 16th, 2009, 06:55 PM
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Take the diff out, take it apart, take out the spiders, put in the DL, put the diff back together, remove the wing nut and long bolt holding the DL together, put the diff back in, glue the fancy new Dana 60 diff cover on and fill with oil.. You're done. 1 hour, no set up required.
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  #3  
Old March 16th, 2009, 07:25 PM
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SWEET.

You got any brackets for calipers in stock Keith?

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  #4  
Old March 16th, 2009, 07:36 PM
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Not in stock.. Perhaps the easiest way is to buy some from your favorite parts guys and have them shipped to me. I'mm mill them and turn them around pretty quick.

It's such a low volume thing I just can't justify stocking them, I don't even get a good enough deal to buy them in bulk.

Or buy them and have you favorite machinest mill .120" or so from the caliper mounting side. It's too simple.
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  #5  
Old March 16th, 2009, 11:28 PM
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Keith, are there axle shafts available that I can run with alloys?
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  #6  
Old March 17th, 2009, 03:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revor
Take the diff out, take it apart, take out the spiders, put in the DL, put the diff back together, remove the wing nut and long bolt holding the DL together, put the diff back in, glue the fancy new Dana 60 diff cover on and fill with oil.. You're done. 1 hour, no set up required.
I think you emailed me the same instructions a few years ago when I bought my DL. My DL is still sitting on my work bench. Thanks for the reminder.
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Old March 17th, 2009, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Keith, are there axle shafts available that I can run with alloys?
Probably the best solution for this other than wheel spacers is to convert the front end to post 1994 spec stuff. In other words the hubs, stubs, halfshafts and CV's from a Disco or D-90 as we get them, you'd also have to put a 24 spline diff in. The rest remains.

In the rear again it's hubs stubs and Shafts at the same time you'll do the disc brake conversion, the wierdest part you'd have to find is the stubs axle, which is common in the ROW for the Disc brake Salisbury post (wait for it) 1994. This allows fitment of the shorter drive flanges from the later trucks..

Or clearance the wheels. the dust cover will always poke out near as I can tell though.

The biggest problem with pre 1994 stub axles is the I.D. it's 1.25" in diameter, later trucks had a bigger 34mm (ish) bore that allows the easy to make axles fit without clearance issues.
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  #8  
Old March 18th, 2009, 05:21 PM
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I heard that when you put the DL in the sals you need a case spreader.
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  #9  
Old March 18th, 2009, 05:28 PM
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yeah, I'm unclear about this case spreader thing too - I've heard comments ranging from "need the right tool" to "big screwdriver." Sounds like a hassle.
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  #10  
Old March 19th, 2009, 08:17 AM
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A long time ago, in galaxy far far away...erm I think someone posted on Pirate about a free hand technique to pull the diff out with no need of the spreader...

Pendy maybe?
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  #11  
Old March 19th, 2009, 09:53 AM
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Bunched up rag between the crown and pinion, then rotate to push the carrier out. At least that i what I have heard. Getting it back in though might be interesting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cube II
A long time ago, in galaxy far far away...erm I think someone posted on Pirate about a free hand technique to pull the diff out with no need of the spreader...

Pendy maybe?
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  #12  
Old March 19th, 2009, 03:40 PM
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Bill Davis told me to just prybar it under one of the ring bolts.

My other friend said the spreader makes it about 100 million times easier.
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  #13  
Old March 19th, 2009, 04:05 PM
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I use a crow bar to pull them out and a soft hammer to put them in.

Or you can use a speader which does make things loads easier. You can even use a propane torch to head the area that the cover bolts to, once it get's warm enough the case will spread thermally (about 180 degrees)
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  #14  
Old March 23rd, 2009, 08:59 AM
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propane? that must take a while

all this is making me want to put one in the 109. though it hardly needs it since it never leaves the driveway...


Quote:
Originally Posted by revor
I use a crow bar to pull them out and a soft hammer to put them in.

Or you can use a speader which does make things loads easier. You can even use a propane torch to head the area that the cover bolts to, once it get's warm enough the case will spread thermally (about 180 degrees)
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  #15  
Old March 23rd, 2009, 10:35 AM
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Can someone comment on how the effects of the DL acts on short wheelbase vehicles as opposed to long wheelbased. I have heard they are better in a LWB truck. Anyone with firsthand knowledge?
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  #16  
Old March 23rd, 2009, 11:12 AM
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I almost went straight out of a turn first time I tried Keithís black Disco
Canít say about a 130 though, those I drove were stock
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  #17  
Old March 23rd, 2009, 11:23 AM
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I have a rear D.L. in my 110 and unless the tcase is locked i have found that it didn't really affect the road manners too bad. with the front wheels also pulling (awd) it takes the stress off the rear axle and it doesn't seam to bind like it dose in a 2 wheel drive application.
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