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  #41  
Old February 20th, 2007, 11:29 AM
MonLand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottYates
btate is right. That is where the coolant sensor is on mine. I just don't know how to test them. This thing is crazy frustrating, lol. I have not been able to find a good manual anywhere. The Heritage Motors Land Rover CD sucks really bad. No troubleshooting and you can't make any hardcopies to take out into the garage. If anyone knows of a good one please shout so I can get one coming. 34 years old and I think I'm loosing my hair over this.
Not sure what version of the Heritage Motors you got, but I can print from mine.....
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  #42  
Old February 20th, 2007, 11:33 AM
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Run it with an O2 sensor disconnected and see if that helps. Try both disconnected as well.

Ron
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  #43  
Old February 20th, 2007, 01:14 PM
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Popping noises in the exhaust? It's definitely running rich. My bet is on either the coolant temp sensor, O2 sensors, or the throttle position sensor.
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  #44  
Old February 20th, 2007, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Run it with an O2 sensor disconnected and see if that helps. Try both disconnected as well.

Ron
Isn't this going to make it run in limp mode (i.e. bypassing all the other sensors as well)?
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  #45  
Old February 20th, 2007, 05:30 PM
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It should throw it in limp-in mode. Any idea how to check any of these. It's getting a little pricey changing everything under the sun.
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  #46  
Old February 20th, 2007, 07:07 PM
MonLand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottYates
It should throw it in limp-in mode. Any idea how to check any of these. It's getting a little pricey changing everything under the sun.
Any friend around that you could use to switch them?
Otherwise, you can use a voltmeter and I _think_ they should oscillate between 12V and 0V (need to find some rangie test pages.....)
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I have an ex MoD and an ex wife. The two no longer conflict with each other.
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  #47  
Old February 20th, 2007, 07:38 PM
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No one around to switch with. I took some preliminary reading before seeing your post. With the vehicle completely cold:

Fuel temp sensor: 4.14 k Ohms
Coolant temp sensor: 4.27 k Ohms

I'll try to check the others and then voltages as well if I can get to the wires themselves.
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  #48  
Old February 22nd, 2007, 12:33 AM
MonLand
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Just as a side note (looking at the manual right now):
* Fuel delivery test with the injector open and pressurised as above, fuel delivery from each injector should be 160-175cc per minute using white spirit,or 180-195cc per minute using petrol at 20C 2C.

Follow-up Post:

The workshop manual seems to state that 1993 to 1995 vehicule _have_ a road speed sensor.
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I have an ex MoD and an ex wife. The two no longer conflict with each other.
Quote:
it is not hoarding it is selective collecting
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  #49  
Old February 22nd, 2007, 10:29 AM
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Any idea where that road sensor might be then? I sure have not been able to locate it lol.
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  #50  
Old February 22nd, 2007, 02:40 PM
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Scott, you might want to measure those sensors cold AND after the engine is at operating temperature. The values should be very different.
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  #51  
Old February 22nd, 2007, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottYates
Any idea where that road sensor might be then? I sure have not been able to locate it lol.
I believe (but did not verified) that on my 95 it is on the T-case when the speedo cable is connected. Let me re-open the manual.

Follow-up Post:

I have verified that there is a _different_ coolant temperature sensor for the ECU than for the gauge (I don't think this is the problem, but.... who knows).
This manual contains the continuity tests for the road speed sensor and a bunch of others (that's for the RRC, but should apply to the Defender as this is the same drive train): http://www.landrover.ee/est/files/ma..._injection.pdf

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by MonLand
http://www.landrover.ee/est/files/manuals/cars/rrc/rrm_fuel_injection.pdf
That same manual talks about the road speed sensor (a box somewhere on the frame rail between the T-Case and the speed gauge). if you crawl under, you should see it (I did! ;-) ).
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Quote:
I have an ex MoD and an ex wife. The two no longer conflict with each other.
Quote:
it is not hoarding it is selective collecting
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1996 Discovery NAS
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  #52  
Old February 23rd, 2007, 12:46 AM
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Both the coolant temp sensor and the fuel temp sensor appear to work. They both decrease resistance when warm. Installed both the fuel pump and fuel injection relays today............no joy. It smoothed out alot at idle but the idle has now increased to 1200 rpm and she still has no high idle when cold and will not run over 3200 rpm. I located the speed sensor and tried to rev it while it was disconnected, no joy. I printed out the diagnostic info from your link Monland. I now what I am doing Saturday (my father-in-law does yet now he's helping, lol).
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  #53  
Old February 23rd, 2007, 03:11 AM
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I read this post.

This reminds me of a problem child I fought with once.

Start at the battery. Clean the battery connections well. Follow the negative cable to the transfer case and frame. Clean these connections and lube with diaelectric when reconnecting. There is a big ground connection at the back of the drivers side cylinder head. Remove and clean, lube these ground wires also. It is a double ended stud-you may have to remove the stud also.

With battery disconected remove starter cables. One goes to the battery the other to the maxi fuse box. Remove and clean, lube. This helps any voltage drop which can take place at this connection.

Also I highly recomend replacing the distributor cap and rotor with a OEM brand replacement. The parts stores sell a substandard cap and rotor that will cause symptoms like these. Especially the rotor buttons. It needs to say Lucas on it. The only good Lucas part ever made.

JP

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
.

Also I highly recomend replacing the distributor cap and rotor with a OEM brand replacement. The parts stores sell a substandard cap and rotor that will cause symptoms like these. Especially the rotor buttons. It needs to say Lucas on it. The only good Lucas part ever made.

JP
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  #54  
Old February 24th, 2007, 07:27 PM
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Unhappy

It would appear that I have a major short some where in the ignition circuit (I think).
While running the diagnostic test info from your link Monland, I had some excitement. The old Bosch OEM coil exploded like a Roman Candle. I now have black insulation all over lol.

Prior to the excite, I was running the voltage test through the ECU harness. MAF, Stepper motor, and throttle potentiometer are all at 0 volts. I am theorizing that since the ignition has to be on in order to run the test on these that I have a short to ground in the ignition circuit. Otherwise I have no ideas. I am going to try to find the problem with the coil harness and see if that helps.


BTW, I did all the ground clean up you suggested Pendy. I also double checked that the grounds are all good using a voltmeter. Body to frame, body to engine block, ECU to engine block, and ECU to body are all good.
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  #55  
Old February 24th, 2007, 11:18 PM
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Your problems might be overwith when you replace the damaged coil, we can hope. The silver Lucas coils some of the vendors sell seem to work okay. Or I got plenty of used ones if you like.

JP
PM me an address if you want a used original.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottYates
It would appear that I have a major short some where in the ignition circuit (I think).
While running the diagnostic test info from your link Monland, I had some excitement. The old Bosch OEM coil exploded like a Roman Candle. I now have black insulation all over lol.

Prior to the excite, I was running the voltage test through the ECU harness. MAF, Stepper motor, and throttle potentiometer are all at 0 volts. I am theorizing that since the ignition has to be on in order to run the test on these that I have a short to ground in the ignition circuit. Otherwise I have no ideas. I am going to try to find the problem with the coil harness and see if that helps.


BTW, I did all the ground clean up you suggested Pendy. I also double checked that the grounds are all good using a voltmeter. Body to frame, body to engine block, ECU to engine block, and ECU to body are all good.
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  #56  
Old February 27th, 2007, 05:50 PM
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Question

I uploaded a few photos I think). Does anything look out of place. The ECU wiring I am pointing at looks gheto. Does anyone else have something similar in their harness? I am chasing a no voltage to the MAF and stepper motor circuits with the key to on and engine not running.
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