Safari Cage Restoration Advice - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 21st, 2006, 09:14 PM
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Safari Cage Restoration Advice

I have the typical rust around the mounting points of my 110 safari cage. I have the outer cage off of the vehicle, and preparing to remove the rear seat belt rails, and plan to address the rust at those points. I also have some minor spots starting to show at some of the welds. Before I set down a path, does anyone have any suggestions on:

1. Addressing the rust
2. Refinishing the cage itself

Specifically, I dont want to spend a lot of time grinding/stripping the rust, if the cage itself should be media blasted to remove original finish prior to refinishing. Regarding the refinish is it simply powder coating in the color of my choice or is there something that should be done to ensure a good, durable finish. Basically I just dont want to make a mistake and have one of those "if I only knew then, what I know now" moments later on when it is too late.

Thanks,
Matt
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  #2  
Old August 22nd, 2006, 04:51 PM
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Galvanize . . .
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  #3  
Old August 22nd, 2006, 05:31 PM
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George Kase
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Matt,
I'm not a real big fan of powder coating...if moisture gets underneath and rust starts popping the finish up, you really have to do the whole thing over again, as opposed to spray paint which you can touch up as needed.
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  #4  
Old August 22nd, 2006, 05:41 PM
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If the rust is bad, then sandblasting, epoxy primer, the chassi paint would be my first guess and possible choice. Chassi paint is tough and the right type of finish (if semi gloss or semi matt).

If the rust is surface rust with no paint peel on spots only, then soft tooth brush or wire tooth brush, POR 15 spot on, chassi paint ( Hirsch Chassin paint), then protect with clear waxoil. (that was my last touch up, works pretty good).
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  #5  
Old August 22nd, 2006, 06:49 PM
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Assuming your cage is the original Alpine White:

I would have the cage tanked. Media balsting only addresses the outside. A tank will tale care of the whole cage. Galvanize and then paint it that cool alpine white. Etching primer and epoxy paint and your done.

EwS
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  #6  
Old August 22nd, 2006, 06:58 PM
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I second Eric's version
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  #7  
Old August 22nd, 2006, 08:58 PM
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I am unfamiliar with what it means for an item to be "tanked". Can you explain what this is and how I would go about finding a local shop who could perform such an operation? The seat belt rails are pretty rough so I might just go this route if it is more effective.

Thanks,
Matt
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  #8  
Old August 23rd, 2006, 01:45 AM
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tanked - dipped in a huge tub of acid. It eats off the paint and some minior rust. Most galvanizing places have tanks.
Chris
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  #9  
Old August 23rd, 2006, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crobinson
tanked - dipped in a huge tub of acid. It eats off the paint and some minior rust. Most galvanizing places have tanks.
Chris
Is exactly what I was referring to.

You can find them in most larger cities. Make sure you educate yourself with what acid they are using to strip paint and scale, and make sure they have a large enogh tank or your cage.

EwS
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  #10  
Old August 23rd, 2006, 12:04 PM
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Do not try to paint galvanizing. It will not hold and it will not look smooth either.
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  #11  
Old August 23rd, 2006, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Do not try to paint galvanizing. It will not hold and it will not look smooth either.

You need a special etching primer. I have painted several galvanized items and all are holding up very well. The painter needs to properly apply the primer and all will be well...

It's similar to a good powdercoat job or a bad one.

EwS
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  #12  
Old August 23rd, 2006, 02:42 PM
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Bah.

It will not stick long term. It is difficult to do and the paint is not smooth because galvy is not smooth.
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  #13  
Old August 23rd, 2006, 06:23 PM
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I would blast the cage then PPG epoxy prime DP 401 I believe, then paint it satin black.. IF you scratch it, it can be touched up easily.

I have painted over Galv tons of times with no problem. YOu have to prep it first with a special wash then epoxy prime it.. As for the roughness, I usually sand the stuff with 80 grit to smooth it but not enough to go through. My bulkheads come out sweet. I will have pics soon. Where I like the galv the most is inside the parts that are dipped anyway. The epoxy primer takes care of the outside very well..
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  #14  
Old August 24th, 2006, 10:28 AM
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Well Ron, if you do it right it's really not a problem...

As far as long term I have parts going on five years with no sign of separation at all.

EwS
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  #15  
Old September 6th, 2007, 12:33 PM
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Hey Matt-

What did you decide on your cage and how did it come out? Restoring my cage is next on my list. Having seen one changed to black up close, I've decided to keep it Alpine White. I'm acid dipping for sure, after that I'm not sure...
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  #16  
Old September 7th, 2007, 12:09 AM
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Chance,

I wound up having the original white burned off and powder coated black. I do like the look better than the white, but acknowledge that the powder coating is not quite as durable as I would like.

Hope this helps.
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  #17  
Old September 7th, 2007, 12:46 AM
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Andrew Najarian
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I just did the same thing. I haven't installed it yet so I don't know about its durability, but it sure looks great! I can't wait to put this thing back together now!
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  #18  
Old September 7th, 2007, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattarm
Chance,

I wound up having the original white burned off and powder coated black. I do like the look better than the white, but acknowledge that the powder coating is not quite as durable as I would like.

Hope this helps.
That's good info Matt, thanks.
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