Rustproofing/Waxoyl in Wash DC area - Defender Source
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Old June 11th, 2012, 10:19 AM
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1997, Defender Alpine White
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Bethesda, Md
Posts: 53
Rustproofing/Waxoyl in Wash DC area

I am looking to rust proof my '97 defender and I have heard that waxoyl is the best alternative? I believe that there are no local (DC area) installation shops so I am thinking about doing it myself. If it is the best product then does anybody have the equipment (spray gun,etc.) or interested locally on going in on the equipment? Any instructions/advice on installing it specific to a D90?

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Old June 11th, 2012, 11:10 AM
tjfslaughter's Avatar
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NorthEast
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Do it your self. Call Rovers North and get the kit with the two guns and two cans of wax. There is enough to do 2 trucks in the kit. If you where closer I would have you come by me and let you use my guns.

Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
What did I miss?
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Old June 11th, 2012, 12:09 PM
down_shift's Avatar
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94' D90 ST & 06' LR3
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Leesburg, VA
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Many have had good luck with Eastwood's internal frame coating. This might be a simpler solution for the frame rail internals.

For the frame exterior and suspension, try wetting it with a WD-40 "big blast" can every month or so. Use the 12-oz smart straw for the far to reach places and nooks and crannies. Cheap and easy to apply (minutes, tops), dirt falls off, it will not rust, and the frame and steel parts will look new, not gunked with a layer of undercoating. Added bonus is the underside will not turn into flypaper and attract dirt and debris like Waxoyl.
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Old June 11th, 2012, 01:19 PM
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Jason Lavender
D-90 Source Vendor
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Alexandria VA/Bolton NY
Posts: 8,354
My advice is avoid waxoyl if you's such a bear getting off later if you decide you want to get rid of it. On the 110 I spent a ton of time painting up the chassis with Eastwood's Chassis Black Extreme (I actually used about 2-3 coats of the Rust Encapsulator, and 2 top coats of Chassis Black Extreme).

I cleaned up the chassis by a thorough pressure washing, then using a prepsol-like substance to get the grease/grime off, and a wire brush in some of the more rust-prone areas (rear xmember/etc). Once it was all cleaned up, I painted essentially from the rear-suspension back and from the front-suspension forward. I still need to do the "middle" section, but that's much easier to get to so I've been putting it off now that the hard stuff is done.

Once the external painting was done, I set about using Eastwood's internal frame coating that Russell referenced above. It's this green stuff that has a big extension and you slide it in all the frame holes and it "coats" the inside of the frame. It's obviously important to clean out the frame as much as possible, so in my previously mentioned pressure washing I had blasted out the frame using any access hole in the frame I could find from front-to-back. I let it dry in an enclosed garage with a dehumidifier for about a week before I tackled any of the above.

My only advice would be if you do go this route use the Internal Frame Coating FIRST. I did it after my painting, and this stuff is pretty heavy-duty and actually ate right through some of my fresh paint in spots where it weeped out of the holes (not bad, I kept up on wiping it off and then touched up the spots in question). But essentially this stuff sort of burns down to the metal through any dirt/grime/etc and then seals it and dries in a hard shell-like surface. So if you did the internal coating first, let it set/cure, then did the outside painting you'd probably fair a little better.

I hate waxoyl since I feel that it "hides" everything. I'd rather treat the inside of the frame, then just wire brush and touchup any outside portions as needed every year. So in theory you could use the waxoyl on the inside (which I actually do agree with, I just opted for the Eastwood internal coating) and paint the outside.

It may take a little time, but I think the end result you'll be much happier with. I plan to do the same on the 90 at some point in the coming year or so, and I know personally if I ever looked at a truck that was coated underneath with Waxoyl I personally would go running the other way and not look back. My 110 had that stuff in a few spots and the cleaning it took to get it off was a pain in the arse.
Jason Lavender
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Old June 12th, 2012, 07:37 AM
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Frank Battersby
95 D90
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 93
I've had luck with Eastwood's "heavy duty anti rust" on the external parts of the frame and the underside of the floor.
'95 Soft Top
'89 Classic Tdi
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