Rust/replacing fuel lines/flamability issues/'94 D90 - Defender Source
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Old February 25th, 2015, 08:18 PM
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Andrew
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Rust/replacing fuel lines/flamability issues/'94 D90

Hi,

This is my first time posting in one of these forums, so I apologize in advance if I break any rules or customs . I am also not mechanically inclined; I'm looking for a mechanic or shop to do the work I am about to ask about. Thought I would try you guys first from some advice. I did a thread search and didn't see anything immediately on point.

I have a 1994 Defender 90 (3.9L V8) with only 70,000 miles on it. It recently broke down in Macon Georgia, where my Mom lives. Rather than try to re-invent the wheel, here is the craigslist ad i posted regarding my issues:

"1994 Defender 90. Two problems. Half-inch cut in the oil hose from the radiator to the bottom of the oil filter ("oil cooler hose??"). Second problem is gas leak, probably in the gas lines (no apparent holes on bottom of gas tank but it has been recommended that both gas tank and lines be replaced). First garage I took it to won't work on it due to extreme amount of rust on undercarriage (and flammability issues raised by welding/grinding parts off). Rear deck may be screwed in giving access to the fuel system. No engine damage; mechanics were able to get it running. Truck is in Macon at Raffield's but I can have it towed 100 miles with AAA."

I guess my two questions for y'all are 1) what do you think about the flamability issues? 2) Anybody know a good mechanic/garage in the middle Georgia area (ideally within 100 miles of Macon, which would include Atlanta)? I haven't paged through the entire "recommended locations to have your rover fixed" thread yet but will try to tomorrow. Thanks in advance for any advice.

- Andrew

Also, should have mentioned I have found all the parts online (oill cooler hose, stainless steel fuel lines, new gas tank). And the mechanic suggested filling the gas tank (after draining) with soapy water to reduce fumes if a grinder has to be used underneath.
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  #2  
Old February 25th, 2015, 08:44 PM
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John Crouse
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Oil Cooler Lines are nothing to fool around with. Many Defenders have burnt to the ground because of them. These guys can fix you right up.

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  #3  
Old February 25th, 2015, 09:12 PM
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Buy your oil cooler lines from Trailhead 4x4. Don't drive it in its current condition. Where'd you buy your truck from?
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Old February 25th, 2015, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Buy your oil cooler lines from Trailhead 4x4. Don't drive it in its current condition. Where'd you buy your truck from?
Thanks for both responses so far.

It's not going anywhere (it's still in the parking lot of the first garage, awaiting another tow.)

I bought the truck from a private owner in Chicago from a guy who was upgrading to a Defender 110. It spent many years on the streets of Chicago unfortunately (no garage).
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Old February 25th, 2015, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schultzga View Post
Thanks for both responses so far. It's not going anywhere (it's still in the parking lot of the first garage, awaiting another tow.) I bought the truck from a private owner in Chicago from a guy who was upgrading to a Defender 110. It spent many years on the streets of Chicago unfortunately (no garage).
As a quick fix the garage can remove the oil lines and the adaptor plate they connect to behind the oil filter. Quite a few people run without them. And especially as it's winter it's no problem to do this. I've been running without for a couple of months.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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Old February 25th, 2015, 10:06 PM
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The gas tank is plastic and held in place by the rear cradle. When it's unbolted it will drop down. I'm guessing this cradle is rotted and this is the issue. The tank can be drained by putting a hose in until the last bit remains and then filled with water if you mechanic is so inclined. Likely you'll need a new fuel pump as the lines going into it tend to rust out as well. I doubt you need a gas tank ... The fumes are probably breathers or fuel lines on the pump which simply unscrews as a single unit with level sensor.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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Old February 25th, 2015, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
As a quick fix the garage can remove the oil lines and the adaptor plate they connect to behind the oil filter. Quite a few people run without them. And especially as it's winter it's no problem to do this. I've been running without for a couple of months.
X2 I was just writing that! Exactly the thing to do right now. Then he has time to get the right set of oil cooler lines and have everything installed correctly.
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Old February 25th, 2015, 10:12 PM
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Oh and likely the rear will need replacing ... Look for a cross member with extension ... This will likely be needed given the state of the rear you are describing.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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Old February 25th, 2015, 11:52 PM
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Also check in with Solaros your state's LR club for good fix them places
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Old February 26th, 2015, 05:17 PM
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Or just drive it as is and have a friend follow you in this.

Land Rover Other Fire Engine | eBay
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Old February 26th, 2015, 05:45 PM
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Or just drive it as is and have a friend follow you in this. Land Rover Other Fire Engine | eBay
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