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  #1  
Old December 1st, 2003, 12:41 AM
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Ken Loy
1994 Portofino Red ST
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Rust Management

I removed my rear bumper to get better access to the rear crossmember so I could apply some rust protection. The more I look though, the more I see. (and the more I touch, the more I break )

1. I broke three bolts when removing the bumper. My plan is to drill them out, then retap for replacement stainless (or Grade 8) bolts.

2. I've noticed a lot of rust in places that I can't get to with a paint brush, like inside the crossmember, where the mounting holes for a rear pintle are located. I've searched here and on the old BBS for info on the subject and it looks like waxoyl is the way to go. RN has the underbody protection in aerosol cans. I really don't want to go through a complete removal of the gas tank carrier again to get to everything. Not that any of YOU would ever do it, but I'm afraid that once I started taking things apart, soon my truck would look like Randy's strewn all over the garage and I'd next be asking for a galvanizing shop to do the whole frame... Yikes!

3. I intend to POR-15 the crossmember and rear bumper with paint over top.

Anyway... any tips on the above? How is all this for a plan?
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  #2  
Old December 1st, 2003, 08:56 AM
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Randy
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Ken, its not that bad....lol... well maybe it is. I would waxoyl the inside of the x-member... On my old frame, that was where it was rusted the most and right infront of the x-member behind the rear axle.

Randy
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  #3  
Old December 1st, 2003, 11:48 AM
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Paul / Boultbee
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Ken, write out all that happens. I am close to the same boat. I spent the weekend looking at the underside. Removed the side steps - why in God's name are there 3 different bolt sizes on 4 bolts?? - and found it and the bolts badly rusted. That lead me back towards the rear bumper, cross member, and things I do not know what they are. Rust on everything. So, let me know how the RN protection is to put on. Do you need to scrape off ALL the rust, or just try your best?
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  #4  
Old December 1st, 2003, 11:53 AM
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Chris Cox
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Do yourself a favor, and drop the tank skid plate. These are notorious for rusting out. It would be better to fix now, than to drop it in a couple of years and the support bars crumble to pieces. I took mine off, sandblasted it. I then took it to have it galvanized. After this, I coated the inside jonts with black Waxoyl. I know this sounds like overkill, but mud and water has a tendency to hold in these areas. Just my $.02.

The POR15 will work great, as long as you are painting bare metal. If you paint over existing paint, the effects of POR15 are greatly diminished. Make sure you buy the Tie-Coat primer if you intend to paint over the POR, because regular primer won't adhere well to it.

As for the frame, take the tank out and coat it right with the Waxoyl. When applied to a clean chassis, the stuff is supposed to last 5 years. During those 5 years, save up for a galvanized chassis . This is what I plan on doing, as it costs almost as much to sandblast and glavanize a chassis as it does to buy a new one. Make sure you coat inside the chassis rails the best you can. Also, make sure the chassis is dry when you apply the waxoyl, as it will trap in water.

Just my $.02 worth.

Good luck.

Chris
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  #5  
Old December 1st, 2003, 12:57 PM
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Ken Loy
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Like a few others have posted recently, a while back I was poking and prodding the gas tank carrier and actually poked my finger all the way through it. Rust made it look like swiss cheese. Replaced with a locally manufactured 1/4" steel reproduction and painted with POR-15 along with their paint.

I presume that I can fit the aerosol can of waxoyl in the nooks and crannies of the crossmember to coat those areas that Chris talked about without dropping the tank carrier all the way. You know what a PITA it is. I was hoping that someone could confirm I could reach. I was also thinking about spraying into the crossmember from the open ends and through the assorted mounting holes. Hopefully, I'll get enough coverage that way. Do those aerosol cans work very effectively?

Randy, On first inspection, I see the same rust as you mentioned all around and behind my axles. (Why in the world didn't LR apply SOME sort of rust protection on the undercarriage?) I'll look you and Chris up for advice in 5 years...
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  #6  
Old December 1st, 2003, 04:46 PM
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Troy Smith
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Ken;

1. I got the keys. Thanks!
2. I have a sprayer that I bought form Eastwood for spraying undercoating (and Waxoyl). 3M makes a product I used on my Series truck and could get locally that looks and smells the same. I would be more than happy to mail it to you for your use and you could simply return when you were done. Just let me know and good luck!

Troy J. Smith
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  #7  
Old December 1st, 2003, 05:10 PM
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Ken Loy
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Troy, Great to hear that you got the keys! That's one mystery solved.

Is this the product you were talking about (aerosol can 3M™ Undercoating 08881):

http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...er/output_html

or is this (in a can 3M™ Body Schutz™ Rubberized Coating 08864 Black):
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...er/output_html

Why is waxoyl so much more expensive? Looks like this stuff is about $4/can vs $17/can for waxoyl.
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  #8  
Old December 1st, 2003, 06:32 PM
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Torrence
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I'm not sure if I'm restating...but I had a 1965 Mustang with rotting floorpans, and I used a marine product that can be sourced in a boating supply store (not sure of the name).

It was a black paint-like liquid, and after a wire brushing, it was placed on the affected areas with a paint brush. Chemically, it bonded with rust to form another, harder material. Once dry/catalyzed (or whatever the process was), it was hard and it would not further corrode. It worked for many years--perfectly.

It is not an undercoating/rubberizer...it reacts with the rust, stabilizes it, and prevents further corrosion. For my money, it was worth it. Could be what others are mentioning...but try your local boating shop. It was amazing.
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  #9  
Old December 2nd, 2003, 11:14 AM
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Ken, I bought some 3m stuff for the rear xmember. I got it at the auto parts store for about $5. It was in an aerosol can and I only had to beat off the rust with a wire brush. I sprayed everything I could see. If I could not see it or spray it the rust must not exist there (what you can't see won't hurt you). It is a little rubbery and looks good after 3 months.
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  #10  
Old December 2nd, 2003, 12:39 PM
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I believe the stuff Torrence is referring to is Ospho (wwwospho.com). It definitely kills the rust according to my buddy. I can't find it in Toronto in any of the marine stores though
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  #11  
Old December 2nd, 2003, 02:28 PM
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Torrence
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Yes! Ospho is it. Amazing. Just turns the rust into a stable element (something like that). Most other things seem to overcoat, seal or otherwise cover up the rust...while it contunues to rot undreneath.

http://www.ospho.com

You'd think I was a dsitributor...

Torrence
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  #12  
Old December 2nd, 2003, 02:56 PM
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martin
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i am having a rust management problem on the top edge of body in two areas. One is where the roll bar over the driver is, between the roll bar base and the front door. The other is on the back area where the rear soft top window bar attaches to the clips, the rust is surfacing between the clips and the door.
Any other peeps have this, should I repair ir or order new upper body strips?
cheers, thanks
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  #13  
Old December 2nd, 2003, 03:28 PM
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Ken Loy
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interesting product. From a Google search: Ospho Metal Treatment. Resists and retards rust while providing a sound base for paint. Contains phosphoric acid.

They imply that it's supposed to be topcoated. Not trying to contractict you at all, Torrence. It's interesting that it works for you without topcoating. I've used other "rust converter" products and they haven't held up at all without a topcoat.

I ordered a couple of cans of waxoyl yesterday before I read all this good stuff. I'm going to keep my eye out for Ospho and for 3M products for the NEXT rustproofing project. I can think of one right now on my other vehicle.
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  #14  
Old December 2nd, 2003, 10:42 PM
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Ospho is definitely worth buying. My buddy has a D90 and a sailboat (which is how he found out about Ospho) and that stuff is amazing. He just takes a wire brush to the rust and then puts it on and watch it go to town. I'll be in MA next week and will definitely try to find it. The Ospho guy told me it's in quite a few ACE stores.
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  #15  
Old December 3rd, 2003, 12:43 PM
Troys
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Troy Smith
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Ken;

The sprayer I have is sold as an undercoating sprayer but I used it to spray the inside of my frame with a 3M Rust Product. It is in a container similar to the second link you sent. It pours into a sprayer and looks and smells like Waxoyl. I'll look this weekend and let you know the name,

Troy
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  #16  
Old December 3rd, 2003, 01:27 PM
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Well, I am off to get some Ospho and give it a try. I will top coat it with mat black Rustolium (sp?) paint which is $3.00 a little jar. If it works, it works. On the outside, my rear bumper looks so good now that I have 4 coats of Mothers Black (another D-90 source recommendation) polish on it, I am not taking it off or painting it.
Only down side - Sunday is the only day I can work on the underside and it looks like rain.
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  #17  
Old December 4th, 2003, 01:11 PM
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Ken Loy
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Rain in SoCal??? Is this the ONE day out of the year when that happens? BTW, you're more than welcome to some of our freezing rain for a little variety... haha
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  #18  
Old December 4th, 2003, 01:42 PM
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You could have helped me change my oil in the 20 degree weather last night.
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  #19  
Old December 4th, 2003, 02:04 PM
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Ken Loy
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let me guess.... you were in shorts and a t-shirt, right??
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  #20  
Old December 4th, 2003, 02:24 PM
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