Rust in footwell? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 31st, 2008, 10:29 AM
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Rust in footwell?

What is the guestimate on pricing to fix rust in a footwell?

This is for a friend and his rust seems to go all the way through the floor.

Thanks,

Josh
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  #2  
Old January 31st, 2008, 12:26 PM
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John Crouse
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Footwell Rust

These guys make really nice repair panels. The sell them on ebay.co.uk as well.

http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/
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  #3  
Old January 31st, 2008, 12:43 PM
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Hmm, is that website not working for anyone else? It redirects to something else which doesnt load for me..
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  #4  
Old January 31st, 2008, 01:03 PM
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It didn't redirect, but it doesn't load.
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  #5  
Old January 31st, 2008, 01:26 PM
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Redirects to http://www.chrisncarly.plus.com/ in a frame, so the address bar doesn't show it, but that's the page it's trying to load.

Follow-up Post:

Ok, I figured it out!

Go to http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.com/page2.htm .. and you can browse around the site.

Follow-up Post:

Now the question is.. LHD driver's side floor panel .. is that 'near side' or 'off side' .. I need a Brit->American translator I guess..
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  #6  
Old January 31st, 2008, 03:02 PM
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It depends on how bad it is. Usually they rust the worst on the lip under the floor.
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  #7  
Old January 31st, 2008, 04:25 PM
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So, let's say it is very bad.

How much to have a professional to fix it?
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  #8  
Old January 31st, 2008, 04:28 PM
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I'd buy the panels from YRM.. bring it to a shop to have them cut out the old one, weld the new one, and if you want, paint it to match the truck.. I don't think the cut & weld will take more than an hour, so it's basically up to the shop as to what their rate is..
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  #9  
Old January 31st, 2008, 04:28 PM
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Its just so impossible to say. Could be cheap, could be wicked.
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  #10  
Old January 31st, 2008, 04:38 PM
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Depends on how much you have to pull to weld in the new one.

If it were me, I would clean up the rust and weld a couple small patches and save for a new bulkhead.
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  #11  
Old January 31st, 2008, 04:40 PM
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Ron -- Think a patch is better than the full new floorboard from YRM? I have a spot about the size of a fist near the crease.. need to address it soon..
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  #12  
Old January 31st, 2008, 04:42 PM
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You can also do wonders with a good cleanup, some fiberglass cloth, and POR15. My bulkhead had minor holes at the bottom, and thats how I fixed them.

The pic shows the area masked for painting, but the rust wasnt very extensive, but I took off a lot of paint to ensure I exposed the whole area.
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  #13  
Old January 31st, 2008, 04:54 PM
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If you cut all the rust out and patch it and stablize the rust, you can always do the full repair later or decide to get a whole new bulkhead (the tops of the bulkheads also rust out).

I have seen very nice and very bad patches. Also, the repair panels are of varying quality. Most do not have the reinforcing plates or are otherwise inferior or incorrect.
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  #14  
Old January 31st, 2008, 07:10 PM
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The problem with just welding it in quickly is that it is hard to clean up the other side of the bulkhead, and you are likely to set the paint/grease/road-grime on fire with the welder. Even more dangerous is the fact that the fuel feed & return both run directly under that spot on the passenger side (on a 110 at least).
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  #15  
Old January 31st, 2008, 07:21 PM
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To do a good job, you probably need to pull the bulkhead. There are stiffeners on the engine side - one runs horizontally and three run vertically and these need to be inspected and sorted also. Job is not hard, but doing it correctly will take some time. You will be glad you did it correctly
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  #16  
Old February 1st, 2008, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmuller
I don't think the cut & weld will take more than an hour, so it's basically up to the shop as to what their rate is..
that's so very unrealistic.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

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  #17  
Old February 1st, 2008, 08:43 AM
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Seriously. I can recall a few LR's that looked like the welding was done in an hour. Looked like the new metal was glued on with rusty mucous.

Quote:
Originally Posted by junkyddog11
that's so very unrealistic.
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  #18  
Old February 1st, 2008, 08:46 AM
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Roofing tin, bathroom silicone and self drilling screws is what I usually see. I think that can be done in under an hour.
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  #19  
Old February 1st, 2008, 09:06 AM
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Over the years I have notced that every yahoo has his own favorite "miracle material" that can be used in place of welding.

Bondo, Fiberglass, everything that Mike listed. Not to mention the stuff people use for soundproofing. I worked on an 88" that had 1/2" cork bulletin board material glued to it with black mastic. It had degraded and was like 1/2" of chunky black tar. Threw away alot of panels just to save the guy the shop time of me cleaning that up. My 109 roof came with fiberglass insulation glued to the roofsides. Useless.




Quote:
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Roofing tin, bathroom silicone and self drilling screws is what I usually see. I think that can be done in under an hour.
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