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  #1  
Old June 11th, 2012, 06:09 PM
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Rust - firewall or footwell

I only have one spot of rust on my truck that is bad enough to fix...but I would like an opinion on how hard it would be to fix and if it is worth fixing it now or can it wait. Also...would tho part be considered firewall or footwell?
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  #2  
Old June 11th, 2012, 06:44 PM
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That don't look so bad. That looks to be part of the footwell from what I can see. I would just keep driving it until you can see the road underneath , then it would be worth the trouble of fixing it. Having done it myself I would wait until it was worse.
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Old June 11th, 2012, 07:54 PM
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If I were you I'd pick up some POR15 (napa or online) and brush it on. That stuff seals rust right up, I did it on the outside of the footwells in the Series when I had stuff that looked like what you posted. Several years of driving in New England winters since then and it's still good to go.
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  #4  
Old June 11th, 2012, 08:33 PM
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X-2 on the POR-15. it is expensive but worth it. Do not get it on your skin or you will have it as a blemish for a very long time. They also make a prep spray that would be good to neutralize the rust prior to using the POR-15.
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Old June 11th, 2012, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MC22958 View Post
X-2 on the POR-15. it is expensive but worth it. Do not get it on your skin or you will have it as a blemish for a very long time. They also make a prep spray that would be good to neutralize the rust prior to using the POR-15.
Also a good point...I literally wear those thick chemical gloves and long sleeve shirt and pants when applying. Inevitably I'll get it on me somewhere, and it's at least a week for it to wear off. I think I still have some spots on my garage floor from it...
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Old June 11th, 2012, 09:13 PM
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The inside looks pretty good...so is the footwell two layers?
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Old June 11th, 2012, 09:24 PM
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It's one layer....just keep in mind the outside takes the most abuse. But I doses some rust bubbling up on the inside under the paint. May not be a bad idea to wire brush and repaint that while you're at it.
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Old June 11th, 2012, 10:13 PM
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As soon as you touch it ... It will turn into Swiss cheese and be worse than you thought ...
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  #9  
Old June 12th, 2012, 12:46 AM
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Mine had the same problem. I cut out the bad metal, basically half way up the portion behind the pedals. I then pop riveted galvanized steel - the steel is easy enough to form if you have a workbench mounted vice, a couple two-by-fours, and a decent rubber mallet. Took a while, but if you don't have AC it'd be a lot easier than what I had to do.

I can post some photos if you want.
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Old June 12th, 2012, 03:35 AM
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It is two layers there. If you look at the engine side there are several channels stamped into the metal for stiffening.

Assuming you've got no holes and all you have is surface rust, the POR-15 is probably OK for your application. Its a useful product, but over-sold. Its all about the prep: you've got to remove all the scale, carefully clean, and use the metal-prep solution as directed. When you do that, the POR-15 works great. The dirty secret is though that if you do that much careful prep, then krylon actually works just as well.

What I like POR-15 for is freshly blasted parts like swivel housings or other cast parts. It keys into the surface really nicely and is hidden away out of the sunlight.
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Old June 12th, 2012, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC View Post
It is two layers there. If you look at the engine side there are several channels stamped into the metal for stiffening.

Assuming you've got no holes and all you have is surface rust, the POR-15 is probably OK for your application. Its a useful product, but over-sold. Its all about the prep: you've got to remove all the scale, carefully clean, and use the metal-prep solution as directed. When you do that, the POR-15 works great. The dirty secret is though that if you do that much careful prep, then krylon actually works just as well.

What I like POR-15 for is freshly blasted parts like swivel housings or other cast parts. It keys into the surface really nicely and is hidden away out of the sunlight.


There is a hole (which is weird as there is no other rust holes anywhere and the pass side is pristine.)

Am I best to patch or replace....if replace...will this work?

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=34625

Wondering if it has both layers or if the layer with the channels are part of the firewall...
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Old June 12th, 2012, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMSLongLake View Post
Wondering if it has both layers or if the layer with the channels are part of the firewall...
? Dont understand the question.

Anyhow, the point of no holes is whether the metal starts coming apart and revealing more holes as you wire brush it to get the scale off. If you've just got a couple pinholes then you can work with that.

Once you're done, you can drill little holes in the "channels" from the engine side and pump them full of waxoyl.
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Old June 12th, 2012, 11:19 AM
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I had a similar issue this past weekend - a bit more rusty - mostly solid with a hole in the corner. I chose to scrape off the rust, clean and prep via Por-15 instructions and then used a few layers of fiberglass and couple coats of P15 (I dipped the glass into the P15 so it was well coated). A day later and it's solid. Also addressed from below but it didn't show much there.

In a perfect world I would've patched with metal (or replaced) but this appears to have worked (time will tell). It appears in this case that there was water inside the truck in the past that caused the issue.

I've used Por-15 on other projects and have been happy with the results. This is the first time using glass with it.
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Old June 12th, 2012, 11:36 AM
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I did what you described with the fiberglass 10 years ago on a bulkhead and it has held up great.
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Old June 12th, 2012, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by JimC View Post
? Dont understand the question.

Anyhow, the point of no holes is whether the metal starts coming apart and revealing more holes as you wire brush it to get the scale off. If you've just got a couple pinholes then you can work with that.

Once you're done, you can drill little holes in the "channels" from the engine side and pump them full of waxoyl.
I guess my question is:

Is the bulkhead and the footwell two different "pieces" or one part.

If I just buy the part linked above (complete footwell) does it include the lower corner of the bulkhead or is the footwell mounted to the bulkhead?

I ask this, cause I can stick my finger through the hole, but I don't see it on the other side...
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Old June 12th, 2012, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by DMSLongLake View Post
I ask this, cause I can stick my finger through the hole, but I don't see it on the other side...
its a portal to another dimension!
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Old June 12th, 2012, 12:34 PM
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Hey Dave, where is your hole located? Here is a pic from my rebuild so you can see the footwell is in fact 2 layers:

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Maybe you have a hole in the top layer and not through to the second layer. More pics of my footwell repair here if you need more reference, start at post #74

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...t=21725&page=4
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Old June 12th, 2012, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Hey Dave, where is your hole located? Here is a pic from my rebuild so you can see the footwell is in fact 2 layers:

Attachment 52823

Maybe you have a hole in the top layer and not through to the second layer. More pics of my footwell repair here if you need more reference, start at post #74

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...t=21725&page=4
OK...NOW it makes sense to me. The "outer" layer has rusted through, but not the inner layer yet...
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Old June 12th, 2012, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMSLongLake View Post
OK...NOW it makes sense to me. The "outer" layer has rusted through, but not the inner layer yet...
mine was like this on one said and all the way through on the other. I replaced both by welding them in. A weekend job but my truck feels much more solid with them replaced.

I used 16 gauge galvanized sheet on one side and a replacement zintex coated footwell on the other. Footwell i got from Justin at lucky 8. With a better welder it would have been much quicker and cleaner but my HF gasless got the job done.
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