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  #1  
Old December 23rd, 2004, 01:35 PM
hama101
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hama sanders
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Rust!

Wondering if I can get some advice re: a 97 D-90 SW I'm considering purchasing.

The vehicle has been in Ohio since being sold, and currently has around 70k miles on the odo. Wondering how concerned I should be about corrossion when the seller is claiming no rust problems. I want to avoid flying out to inspect.

Selling price is 26K.... Any suggestions about what specifically to ask? And, if I do inspect, what are some "must do's"?

Thanks in advance!

HKS
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  #2  
Old December 23rd, 2004, 02:37 PM
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Phil
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You should be VERY concerned as they use magnesium chloride mixed with sodium chloride on the roads here. Very nasty stuff. I usually don't drive my D90 on days when they are putting it down. I'll wait for it to dry out to limit exposure to it. It kinda sucks because I had lived in states that didn't salt for 13 yrs before moving here 2 yrs ago. Also, if it's in northern Ohio, it snows like a MF here all winter, so they are constantly salting the roads. We got 14 inches last night after getting about that much earlier in the week. If this truck you are talking about is reasonably close to me, I'd offer to take a look at it for you. You can e-mail or PM me.
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  #3  
Old December 27th, 2004, 06:17 PM
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Matt Wunderle
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Hamma,


I live in Central Ohio and have a 95 ST Defender. I would be happy to check out any vehicle that you are looking at, if it is within an hours drive or so. I deliberatly bought a Defender out of Arizona as to not deal with rust issues. Southern Ohio has a lot less problems than northern Ohio, bust salt is salt. Try to stay southern for the best trucks.


Matt...

P.S.

I am a sissy, so I do not take the Defender out of the garage at all in the winter. Salt sucks.
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  #4  
Old December 28th, 2004, 02:02 PM
hama101
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hama sanders
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Thanks, you guys are awesome! I appreciate your offers to inspect, but I've decided that I WILL be going for a look in the next week or so.

***Any tips on how to look past the surface rust, and spot any danger signs??***

(I spoke with the L.R. Dealer Service Tech who has serviced the vehicle for the past 5 years. Apparently, the vehicle is in terrific mechanical and cosmetic shape. I got the feeling, however, that the rust issue was being downplayed. No rotting, but plenty of "surface rust" apparently. He made it out to be something to accept as normal.)
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  #5  
Old December 28th, 2004, 03:24 PM
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Jesse McCoy
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How can there be "Surface Rust" on an aluminum body?

That said, my truck has some issues where the steel meets the aluminum.
Good luck, and as always Buy It!
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"Pump one is on for the black Jeep"
"It's not a Jeep"
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  #6  
Old December 28th, 2004, 05:55 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Many owners dont take kindly to you probing with a long handled screwdriver, but thats a great way to check for rust. Even if you cant get away with the screwdriver thing, here are spots you shoudl scrutinize.

Inside the rear crossmember. See in the pic that the arrow points to where the crossmember and chassis rail meets - this area will invariably be packed with dirt and will be rusty before anything else. If there is rust here, then its worse behind the gas tank where you cant reach or see. An original vehicle that is not rusty here is either Southern or well cared for.

There is frequently unsightly surface rust across the outside of the rear crossmember. Not big deal unless you see blisters. The outside isnt what you want to check anyway.

Pull up the floor mats and look at all the seams in the footwell. These rust like crazy, and you can see on mine i've glassed over the pinhole rust spots. When you see blistering here, its a lot worse than it looks because the floor comprises two panels flat against one another. Moisure finds its way in and rust has a field day. Fortunately this is extremely easy to fix.

On the last pic, you can see two points on the bulhead post that are rust prone. First the bottom area around where the huge bolt goes through, and second the area right above the door hinges. The bottom will probably rust before the top, but neither are quick and easy fixes.

Look at the bottoms of the doors, and in the exterior door handle recess. Neither are terminal, but sure are ugly. Easy to fix.

You can be assured that the rear gas tank skid plate is rusted through. Its easy to replace, but its a bitch to remove from even the most well cared for vechicles because of rusty inaccessible bolts.

Thats a start. There are very few parts on a defender that you cant see with a flashlight or poke with a screwdriver.
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  #7  
Old December 28th, 2004, 06:00 PM
hama101
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hama sanders
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rust?/aluminum?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JBurt
How can there be "Surface Rust" on an aluminum body?
When speaking of the "surface rust" it was in the context of areas where rust was possible and potentially problematic... namely, the chassis and bulkhead/firewall. Not too concerned about the door hinges and such.

Thanks to all for all of your input!

HKS
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  #8  
Old December 28th, 2004, 06:02 PM
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Phil
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Hama - You'll be in my neck of the woods so let me know if you need transportation or if you'd like me to look at it with you. Sent you a PM.

PT
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