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  #1  
Old October 9th, 2012, 03:22 PM
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barry f
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Running Warm to Hot

Preface this with it has been extremely hot here lately.

About two weeks ago I was on the highway in bumper to bumper traffic when I noticed my temp was running 3/4 of the way up. I was alarmed because since I had my rad recored (4 core, new hoses, tstat), 4000 miles ago I never ever run passed dead center. As soon as I started moving the temp went back to normal. I brought it in to my shop and they ran the normal head gasket pressure tests, checked rad, and did some smog test. Everything was good. I then took the truck on this 4 mile hill that I normally drive to go mountain biking and the temp started to climb as I got to the top. When I got to the very top I let the truck sit (nose up) and idle for five minutes and the temp continued to climb. It almost got to the red but I decided I had enough and drove home. Ride home and down hill everything was good. I brought the truck back and told the shop to install a new fan clutch as it is the one thing is my cooling system that predates my ownership. I had that done yesterday. When they took the old clutch out it looked beat to shit. The previous shop I used hit it with a hammer. My current shop had a hell of a time getting it off. Anyway new fan clutch is in and I took it today on the same hill climb and it was fine until the top. When I let it sit and idle nose up for ten minutes it started to climb all the way up again. The temp outside is cooler today so I think that is why it took longer.

I think I have the standard 88 degree T stat. Could it be that? Should I switch to a 82? I am stumped.

Any thoughts? Coolant looks good. No air or oil in it.

I did switch to full synthetic before this started but I don't see how that would do it.
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  #2  
Old October 9th, 2012, 04:25 PM
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Joe Still
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Over the years I've discovered there are radiator shops that sell a "recore" that's nothing but soda blasting the inside parts you can see and spraying the outside black. Looks brand new. Maybe not your shop but has happened.

Get an infrared thermometer and shoot various parts of the radiator and hoses and see if you have hot spots. I went thru this with my 95 Disco. Besides learning how and where the cooling takes place it is lots of fun ot use the laser thermometer.

This sounds like a plugged radiator IMHO. js
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  #3  
Old October 9th, 2012, 04:30 PM
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barry f
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Yeah I did the whole laser thermometer thing and it all seems fine. No plugs in the radiator. With my recore, my old radiator was completely shot. I watched them do the rebuild but that still doesn't mean there isn't something the shop is missing.
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  #4  
Old October 9th, 2012, 04:44 PM
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barry, your water pump is going bad is my bet. my rad is beat to shit as i've used my truck for too many muddy water crossings and pressure washed it too many times. the fins are crunched in and it is not worth recoring imo. i had signs of heating up only in high-lock off road and when climbing mtn passes. i replced v-fan, t-stat and water pump this summer and it never moves off of dead center. btw, i can run a/c in the hot humid summers here without a condensor fan too. i had to remove it years ago as a result of muddy water crossings killing it too. i'm a big fan of new vis-fan and water pumps if they have a number of miles on them.

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  #5  
Old October 9th, 2012, 04:50 PM
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Water pump is only 5000 miles old. If it was water pump wouldn't it affect it during normal driving. When the last one went the bearing screached and it dropped the fluid.

As for a recore, you get all new fins with the recore.
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  #6  
Old October 9th, 2012, 05:11 PM
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it wasn't in my case. the only reason i changed the pump, fan amd stat is becasue when i climb this one long mtn pass my temps would shoot above mid-point and i didn't want problems to snowball one day. other than that mine ran fine in traffic and around town, even with a/c on. fan, stat and pump were original stock 97 parts so i figured they might be on their last leg with 114k anyway, but i've kept them for trail spares should i or someone else need them.

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  #7  
Old October 9th, 2012, 05:13 PM
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Well the shop that did the water pump really sucks. For some reason they like to use a sealant when putting it together that oozes out all the sides. I am tempted to replace it because it looks like shit. It does work fine though. I guess it is possible the t stat is bad. I have had no issues since the rad was recored until now.
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  #8  
Old October 9th, 2012, 05:19 PM
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Rob
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Barry, what shop did the shitty work. Want to make sure I avoid them.
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Old October 9th, 2012, 05:22 PM
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a buddy of mine showed me my pump was startng to go by wedging a large screw driver between the pully and the pump and showing a slight bit of movement. it was very slight but the new one didnt move a bit. the fan was also starting to go. the stat was prob fine. i havent tested it.
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Old October 9th, 2012, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty james View Post
Barry, what shop did the shitty work. Want to make sure I avoid them.

The shop's name rhymes with Door Jokes
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  #11  
Old October 9th, 2012, 06:41 PM
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Sometimes stupid mechanics pack too much sealant-silicone with coolant related components and guess where all the overload goes ? radiator.
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Old October 9th, 2012, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFD
Sometimes stupid mechanics pack too much sealant-silicone with coolant related components and guess where all the overload goes ? radiator.
Yeah I could see that but no hot spots and works fine otherwise.
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  #13  
Old October 9th, 2012, 07:38 PM
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My water pump
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  #14  
Old October 10th, 2012, 05:36 AM
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Ditch that thermostat would be my first start, have the radiator flow tested. There are a lot of people running stock fans and clutches, ditching this helped me. A new radiator seems to have fixed everything, my head gaskets "weep"
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Old October 10th, 2012, 03:14 PM
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Barry, my bet is on a head gasket, despite what the shop says. I had the same symptoms on my truck back in the day and replaced everything but the head gasket and it still got hot on long climbs and in traffic. I finally replaced the head gasket and looking at the gasket, it was apparent that there was a small leak in the seal. These leaks can sometimes only show symptoms when the system is under stress, like on a long climb. Once I replaced the head gasket, the truck cooled like a champ.

Also, I'm pretty sure that you're running the stock temperature gauge. Time to replace that with a VDO that shows the actual temperature and do the sender replacement that's required. Seeing the actual temperature will give you a betteter feel for what's actually going on.

Here I am today, two head gaskets later. My truck is occasionally getting warm on long climbs again. I don't know if I want to replace a third head gasket. Maybe it's time for a fresh motor.
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Old October 10th, 2012, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
Barry, my bet is on a head gasket, despite what the shop says. I had the same symptoms on my truck back in the day and replaced everything but the head gasket and it still got hot on long climbs and in traffic. I finally replaced the head gasket and looking at the gasket, it was apparent that there was a small leak in the seal. These leaks can sometimes only show symptoms when the system is under stress, like on a long climb. Once I replaced the head gasket, the truck cooled like a champ.

Also, I'm pretty sure that you're running the stock temperature gauge. Time to replace that with a VDO that shows the actual temperature and do the sender replacement that's required.

Here I am today, two head gaskets later. My truck is occasionally getting warm on long climbs again. I don't know if I want to replace a third head gasket. Maybe it's time for a fresh motor.
Thanks Chris. They are checking it now. I have 73,000 miles on the truck and it appears to run well except in this one instance. In the last year I have never seen the temp gauge go past the middle. Even with the extreme heat this summer it only started to do it recently.

I am surprised your head gasket is going again.
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  #17  
Old October 10th, 2012, 03:26 PM
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You sure you do not have an air pocket somewhere? The early trucks are a PITA to bleed properly. Do your AC fans work? Do the rad hoses hold pressure (ie do they get firm and stay firm after sitting for a while)?
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Old October 10th, 2012, 03:28 PM
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Another thing to check is your ac compressor ... I fit's screwed it can put additional load on the engine. I have that problem.
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Old October 10th, 2012, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
The early trucks are a PITA to bleed properly.
Not to hijack...but I've been contemplating a coolant flush on my '94 90. Any suggestions for this process?
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  #20  
Old October 10th, 2012, 03:37 PM
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Not to hijack...but I've been contemplating a coolant flush on my '94 90. Any suggestions for this process?
Buy two new plastic plugs now or replace with metal.

Follow the instructions in the book, but do it with the front of the truck on drive up ramps and squeeze the top hose to act as a pump.

Go drive around for a couple days with the heater on (make sure thermostat opens and stays open). Repeat bleeding process.
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