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  #21  
Old July 20th, 2009, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowpoke496
Hans,
I recently changed my head gasket to cure overheating problem. At this time I changed my injectors to 19lb Fords. Ran great for one week except I had surging idle particularly when coming to a stop. After week of trouble shooting i have found that cyl #1 is not firing the injector (checked with test light all other fire) and i have intermittent spark confirmed at cyl 1(did not check other yet, got too dark). Currently running Mallory Unilite Dist. I am going to change out the Dizzy back to stock tonight to see if it cures problem. Question is, Would bad alternator also cause #1 injector not to fire?

Any incite would be greatly appreciated.

Bryan
So it's just the one injector? They are batch-fired in a D-90, meaning that all the left side injectors fire at the same time. Same with the right side. So if ONLY that injector isn't firing, then the problem is in the wiring for that one injector. Any other issues would cause the other 3 on that side to also not fire.

Just double check that it is the right connector. IIRC, doesn't the fuel temp sender use the same type of connector, and is right next to injector #1?
-Hans
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  #22  
Old July 20th, 2009, 05:47 PM
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Bryan, make sure the temp sensor and the #1 injector wires were not mixed up. You can hook them up wrong.

Ron
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  #23  
Old July 20th, 2009, 10:43 PM
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Okay that was the problem! Thank you!!! sometimes i guess you are just too close to the problem. Now I need to determine if the mallory unilite was the cause of the intermittant spark to cylinder #1. Got home too late finish changing out the distributor.

Guys thank you again and i will post back with the my findings on Wednesday.

Follow-up Post:

Hans,
I read that you have the E-spark unit over the Unilite what are the benefits. I found that it is cheaper is it also more reliable or robust?

You also mentioned alternate wiring do you have a link with that detail?
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  #24  
Old July 20th, 2009, 11:34 PM
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Yes, the E-spark is all of the above. Cheaper, more reliable, and more robust than the original versions.

The alternate wiring was a little "NOTE" blurb that was on the e-spark module instructions, I don't know if it would work with the original style unilite modules. Here's the link, and the direct quote out of it. I found it made a big difference in performance for me.

http://www.malloryperformance.com/pdf/6100M.pdf

NOTEó
If your vehicle is difficult to
start, remove the red wire
from the plus (+) side of the
ignition coil and connect it
to the ignition switch side of
the ballast resistor.
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  #25  
Old August 25th, 2009, 08:33 PM
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Hans/Evilfij,

Thanks again! the mallory unilite module failed the test procedure with a credit card. Replaced it with the E-spark using alternant wiring as per your post. Engine turned over and started better than ever.

It appears that i had an intermittant ground that may have caused the ignition module to fail? I ran a new ground wire and added the power filter to the E-spark module.

Engine is running cooler and no longer running rich.

Cheers!
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  #26  
Old August 26th, 2009, 10:48 AM
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The original style unilite modules have a reputation for being very fragile things, and it didn't take much to cause them to fail. The E-sparks are supposed to be much more robust, while also being less expensive. The ground problem could very well have caused it to fail, and the power filter is extra insurance for the future.

-Hans
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  #27  
Old November 18th, 2010, 11:18 AM
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So the Mallory with the e-spark is the way to go?
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