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  #41  
Old August 18th, 2011, 02:22 PM
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Phillip
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WRT the VDO comment, I have been running one in my Defender for years. I have found it quite useful and perhaps a hindrance at times. I agree the stock wiring is marginal but it seems to work just fine. I am also running this gauge in my Classic wired per VDO's instructions, the sender tapped into the intake above the factory sender. Both are damn near spot on when I check with the infrared thermometer which is 100% accurate (the infrared thermometer). I see no issue with the VDO in the Defender other than the grounds, I get a little jump when I turn on the headlights. I can live with the jump and have had no reason to pull that instrument cluster apart to mess with grounds etc.

It is well known that the stock defender cooling system is adequate at best. I know I need a new radiator but it never gets above 190 and I can live with this. I have neglected the cooling system early on and probably still dont service as much as I should since its such a PITA.
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  #42  
Old August 18th, 2011, 03:51 PM
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Gary Waggoner
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Respectfully



IMO Land Rover designed a radiator that meets the minimum demands of a stock vehicle. No redundancy or room to allow proper cooling when modifications are made. And the design is not similar to the old mustang radiator. May have some cut open cores if that would help you see what am trying to describe. Yes I believe the radiators are to small. And the core design slows the coolant flow, as well as the large oil cooler in the far tank. Counteracts the job of the thermostat really. Yes older radiators and engines blocks themselves build up deposites that harm cooling operation.
Ok, the Mustang radiator was a poor choice of examples because of flow design. No need to cut them open. I
understand the differences. I was only making a point of overall surface area cooling capabilities being similar where one works and the other seemingly doesn't. Horizontal vs Vertical coolant flow has been an unsuccessful argument for as long as I can remember. I think what I was trying to make a point with was that it works for one, why not for the other? Designs apart, the cooling area seems large enough on the Rover when stock, and it seems that overheating issues are just now starting to surface with these older vehicles.
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  #43  
Old August 18th, 2011, 06:02 PM
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jim pendleton
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Originally Posted by waggoner5 View Post
Ok, the Mustang radiator was a poor choice of examples because of flow design. No need to cut them open. I
understand the differences. I was only making a point of overall surface area cooling capabilities being similar where one works and the other seemingly doesn't. Horizontal vs Vertical coolant flow has been an unsuccessful argument for as long as I can remember. I think what I was trying to make a point with was that it works for one, why not for the other? Designs apart, the cooling area seems large enough on the Rover when stock, and it seems that overheating issues are just now starting to surface with these older vehicles.
Every year about this time we get these posts. About Defenders running hot on the guage. Since D90 source started really. People suffer through it and some upgrade. Seems pretty mandatory that everyone wants to rant before they make some successful changes. Can not really speak to your successful application without really seeing it firsthand. Would you put a trailer behind it and drive over the rockies without issue? How about your leadfoot brother-in-law driving it over the passes?

As far as a 300 tdi radiator. Would really have to know what the specs on the rig were. And how it was used and tuned. You can search old posts from me if you are looking for examples to compare.
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  #44  
Old August 19th, 2011, 11:43 AM
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My system works, as I am convinced, because everything is new. On top of that, a little overlap in the cam helps dump heat at idle as well as lowering cylinder pressure at rpm.
As far as towing a trailer over the Rockies.....hmmm. Probably would do it as long as the ambient temps were the normal in the 70s temps. Driving the truck here in Denver, 95 degrees, with the AC running, it seems to be happy at about 200 with a 195 thermostat, even running it hard down the freeway at 3000 rpm.
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  #45  
Old September 2nd, 2011, 06:22 PM
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Dr. Gonzo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waggoner5 View Post
... find the fan relay, disconnect the wire coming from the ECU that tells the relay to turn on and manually activate the relay with the appropriate voltage. Keep in mind that the ECU may be putting out a ground signal or a positive signal.
Any idea where the fan relay is for the A/C auxiliary fan on the front of the radiator? I bench tested the fan, and it works, but when it's hot, and the A/C is on, the fan never goes on. Makes me think the relay has gone bad.

'94 D90 if that helps.

Thanks
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