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  #41  
Old November 11th, 2010, 08:27 AM
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It happened to mine a couple of years ago. I remember put it in 4th, release clutch and step on the brakes. That´s how I stopped it. It was the beggining of the end though since little after that I rebuilt the engine and now runs gorgeous again. The thing is I went auto conversion now and don´t know if it will do the trick if it would happen again. Here´s a video of mine´s runaway...

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  #42  
Old November 11th, 2010, 09:32 AM
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Julien Dalbin
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Originally Posted by defeyago View Post
Here´s a video of mine´s runaway...
jugando en la pampa, eh....
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  #43  
Old November 11th, 2010, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
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jugando en la pampa, eh....
Si seņor!!
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  #44  
Old November 11th, 2010, 07:20 PM
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Video:



Runaway starts at 2:28. If you don't mind really bad language, there is great wheeling up to that point. I don't know who loaded it but it has the end missing, I think the camera guy panicked and turned it off. It does show me trying everything I can to kill it though. Including 5th gear forword.

New engine, whoopee.
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Made it further than half of the other guys, but the Hammers won.
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  #45  
Old November 11th, 2010, 09:02 PM
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Thanks for posting the video.......could not have been easy posting something that painful.

I don't think I would have had the quickness to put it in gear to try and stall it. I would have been in shock trying to figure it out a while.

Loved that scene of you sideways and then getting back up.....WTF!!!!
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  #46  
Old November 11th, 2010, 09:31 PM
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Might have been running on all that puffed up testosterone in the air. Not its own oil.

You can send it to me and I can try to piece it back together from left over components from other damged engines.

Sorry for you loss
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  #47  
Old November 11th, 2010, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by pendy View Post
Might have been running on all that puffed up testosterone in the air. Not its own oil.

You can send it to me and I can try to piece it back together from left over components from other damged engines.

Sorry for you loss
Yeah, I warned about the language. That was a different trip. Fun though. Are you serious with the offer? I may take you up on that. Can I call you?
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Made it further than half of the other guys, but the Hammers won.
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  #48  
Old November 12th, 2010, 12:12 AM
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Yeah thats fine. Just as well to get it removed and ready to ship.

Promise to post pics of the carnage here.

More awesome, less gae
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  #49  
Old November 14th, 2010, 07:42 PM
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Im thinking with the clutch in and things starting to sound bad the thing to do would be pop into hi range, slam it into 4th, STAND on the brakes and dump the clutch? Bonus points if you can engage all lockers and pull the handle too.

Buck from when it started to act up how long till it went pop.

------ Follow up post added November 14th, 2010 07:50 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s View Post
Edit: It's important to note that I had this engine for 8 years. When I got it, it had 50k on it. I have raced KOH where it hit 1450 egt's. I have rolled it around 15 times. All I ever replaced was a fan belt, alternator, and oil changes. I can't really be that bummed, even though I am, since I have no money right now. But the engine is a good engine. Not perfect, but very fun.
Do (did) you let it cool off any before shutting it down?
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  #50  
Old November 14th, 2010, 08:06 PM
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Halon has not been produced in years, so unless you have a secret stash it will be near imposable to obtain.
http://www.periphman.com/fire/halon-...hers.shtml#qA1
The valve type shut off works well, I have seen it in use and is very effective! but if you want an extinguisher co2 would be available. co2 can also be used to run air tools and inflate tires too, making it even more attractive for some!!
Even though Halon 1301 hasn't been widely available, there are plenty of suitable replacements. FM-200 (heptaflouropropane), Inergen (while completely non-toxic, requires a larger cylinder than others), or like you say even CO2 would do it.

If you are truly paranoid you inject the suppression agent and then close the intake. The flood suppressant also has the benefit of also being available for engine compartment fires. Find a second hand Kidde IR-1A sensor (the same thing we use on M1A1 Tanks and inside up-armored HMMWVs) to sense the fire and you have yourself a bad ass military-like fire suppression system.

Something to add to the "if I won the lottery" list.
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  #51  
Old November 14th, 2010, 09:27 PM
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just came in on this. i am the fellow from NY this happened to back in 2005 (wow 5 years ago!!!). sorry to hear about the runaway. i still twitch when i drive by the spot it happened. mine basically warped the cylinder head and subsequently blew the head gasket. no takers for it so i still have it in the garage - should get it back together next year (i've been busy).
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  #52  
Old November 14th, 2010, 11:03 PM
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Why not fit an inversion switch that cuts fuel if you roll, can always re-start if you roll back onto wheels, not sure how.much of a delay could be put in. Then fit a flap to the snorkle that closes with an emergency pull handle.
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  #53  
Old November 14th, 2010, 11:26 PM
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Im thinking with the clutch in and things starting to sound bad the thing to do would be pop into hi range, slam it into 4th, STAND on the brakes and dump the clutch? Bonus points if you can engage all lockers and pull the handle too.

Buck from when it started to act up how long till it went pop.

------ Follow up post added November 14th, 2010 07:50 PM ------



Do (did) you let it cool off any before shutting it down?
I did put it in 5th and hold the brakes, that's when you see it launch forword. It was no use. I was in low though so in high it may have worked. It blew very shortly after that video cut out. It didn't last long.

I always brought the egt's down to around 600 before I shut it off. In the rocks, it really never got over 700.
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Made it further than half of the other guys, but the Hammers won.
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  #54  
Old November 15th, 2010, 10:04 AM
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Bad turbo seals is a really common reason for diesel runaway. Not that it was the case this time, but it's common.

IMO the intake air shutoff valve (cable operated) is the best solution. For the most part zero maintenance, no need to worry about refilling CO2 or fire suppression tanks, works even with no power and at any angle. The only time it wouldn't work is if you were unconscious, but unless you had some automatic system (which could fail itself) they all would have that failure point. And as mentioned, very easy to test periodically.

It would also work as an anti-theft device if left closed. An added bonus the others don't offer.
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  #55  
Old November 15th, 2010, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by ajh View Post
Why not fit an inversion switch that cuts fuel if you roll, can always re-start if you roll back onto wheels, not sure how.much of a delay could be put in. Then fit a flap to the snorkle that closes with an emergency pull handle.
It is running on engine oil, not fuel.

Anyway, a butterfly in the intake does seem like the best answer.
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  #56  
Old November 15th, 2010, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
It is running on engine oil, not fuel.
So you know that the instant it inverts it's got enough engine oil to continue or are you guessing? If you cut the fuel as soon as it was over say 75 degrees (so in any roll, including one that you end up back on your wheels) is there still going to be enough engine oil available that quickly to continue the run-on?

(I am not saying an intake valve is not also needed, but this would be automatic and could also work in the event of a RTA where the driver is unconscious).
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  #57  
Old November 15th, 2010, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
It is running on engine oil, not fuel.

Anyway, a butterfly in the intake does seem like the best answer.
Right! In the video I posted before in this thread first thing I did was cut the ignition but kept going. Only way I could stop it was putting in 4th gear, release clutch and step hard on the brakes. I was in LOW range on the video. 4th is much stronger than 5th.

Run away engines are sucking a LOT of air at the time and as I see it it would be hard to make something that stops the air from getting in the admission. It should have to be very strong and tight to hold the air out in run away conditions.
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  #58  
Old November 15th, 2010, 12:15 PM
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I see your point. It would make sense to engage the intake air valve using the rollover switch as well. You could do this all for freeish with parts out of the junkyard.
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  #59  
Old November 15th, 2010, 03:08 PM
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Guess I need to cut off a throttle plate from a R V8 injected intake housing and weld it onto the diesel manifold for Bucky. So a cable will hold it open to run. Spring tension will hold it shut not the cable. After it comes over center the vacuum should hold it shut anyway?
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  #60  
Old November 15th, 2010, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ajh View Post
So you know that the instant it inverts it's got enough engine oil to continue or are you guessing? If you cut the fuel as soon as it was over say 75 degrees (so in any roll, including one that you end up back on your wheels) is there still going to be enough engine oil available that quickly to continue the run-on?

(I am not saying an intake valve is not also needed, but this would be automatic and could also work in the event of a RTA where the driver is unconscious).
That kill switch on my dash is a racing one. It kills the engine pump and every electronic on the car (masterkill).

Anyway, the last thing you would want is for the engine to turn off right when you roll over. Most flops can be driven out of. The video is evidence of that. The air stop would be by far the best option. I will be putting one in for sure (or Pendy lol.)

But, like I said earlier, I think if my engine was 100% it would not have had this happen. I have been over a lot. It was running like boo before this even happened.
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