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  #21  
Old June 24th, 2011, 06:53 PM
jhhorse
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joe heins
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James,

It behaves this way closed loop also, no difference. However, when MAF disconnected, I can rev it up!


With MAF connected,iIn neutral with no load engine revs normally.


today it bogged down climbing some mild hills for about 30 minutes, I could feel it losing power intermittently trying to climb the hills. Once on the other side of the hill, with a CEL for an O2 sensor, I disconnected battery (only way I can clear a CEL on this truck) for a few seconds and...

it ran like a top climbing the hills on the way back over the ridgeline. (I kept the rpm under 3000)

Then when I got near home, ran it over 3300 rpm up a hill, gas smell, loss of power.
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  #22  
Old June 24th, 2011, 07:18 PM
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James Pierce
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James Pierce Jr.
1995 D90 SW #314, 59 SII 88 HT
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Since you ruled out the MAF by using another that was known to be good and it does it in closed loop which would eliminate the O2's I would check the alt. Simple test, doesn't make sense I know but its worth the 15 minutes it takes to rule it out. My money's on something electrical (sensor / alt) Did you try turning the lights / ac on? Does an amp draw make a difference?

If no joy with the alt might throw a fuel pressure gauge on to rule out the pump as Dan suggested. If you don't have one most auto parts stores will lone them out.
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  #23  
Old June 24th, 2011, 10:22 PM
jhhorse
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joe heins
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Thanks James, amp draw does not seem to make a difference but I will test the alt tomorrow and let you know.



Thanks for the help.
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  #24  
Old June 25th, 2011, 04:02 PM
jhhorse
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joe heins
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Battery shows a constant 14 volts when car running, even at idle or 200 rpm.

Another thing that started is fuel is making it past the cats and leaking out of the Y pipe joint when starting cold. Could this whole problem be a leaking injector?

Thanks
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  #25  
Old July 2nd, 2011, 02:30 PM
jhhorse
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joe heins
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I think I found at least a partial answer, a new O2 sensor I had installed and assumed it was in good shape, had taken a hit by sometype of road hazard, had a big ding in the side, when I swapped this sensor to the other side the CEL followed it to that bank. Voltage check on that sensor seemed all over the place, so it is now replaced, I will run for a week and see what happens.
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  #26  
Old July 2nd, 2011, 04:48 PM
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James Pierce
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James Pierce Jr.
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Good to hear, I was wondering if you had figured it out. On a side note... not that I think its your problem now, when checking your alt you need to take the belt off. Mine was putting out 14 volts when tested at the alt and bat but it was still emitting random currents which would disrupt the delicate rover ignition.

Keep us posted.
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  #27  
Old July 3rd, 2011, 09:24 AM
jhhorse
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joe heins
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Thanks James, I may still do that, I still have an rpm hang up at 3200-3400, all the other issues appear gone. I am going to check the alt and go back over air and vacuum system.
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  #28  
Old July 17th, 2011, 03:19 PM
jhhorse
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joe heins
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I have nearly eliminated the rpm hang up by wrapping the entire tubing from the MAF to the plenum in gorilla tape. Maybe some holes in there that did not leak at idle but let enough air thru under load to give the ECU trouble. Maybe I will just wrap the entire plenum in gorilla tape, that ought to finish it up!
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  #29  
Old July 27th, 2011, 11:33 AM
jhhorse
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joe heins
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This problem finally fixed with a new fuel pump. Local mech said fuel pressure was good, took it to jcbritish and they fixed it with a new pump. Old pump couldn't handle load
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  #30  
Old November 10th, 2011, 04:48 AM
honkskillet
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jhhourse... what you have described is exactly what is going on with my d90 right now. Mine bogs down at a lower rpm (~2400)... but is fine at idle. The O2 sensor has just gone off, code 44! I haven't tried to d/c the MAF, but will do so right now. Have you had any resolution to your problem? If so, please share. Mahalo.
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  #31  
Old November 10th, 2011, 11:24 AM
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Chris Davis
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I had this same problem at 2400rpm and it turned out to be my alternator-- one of the zenier diodes
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  #32  
Old November 10th, 2011, 11:31 AM
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Chris Davis
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The alternator bled A/C current (in lieu of the 12v D/C) which caused misfiring of the fuel injectors and such. Total big down of power at 2400 rpm. Hard problem for me to find but fixed alternator and all was well. Worth checking out.
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  #33  
Old November 10th, 2011, 03:21 PM
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James Pierce
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James Pierce Jr.
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This is the hardest part about diagnosing something on line. So may different problems have the same symptoms. I also had the alternator issue. Most recently I had a similar symptoms with code 44... wound up being a stopped up fuel filter. Who would have thought.
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  #34  
Old November 13th, 2011, 06:31 PM
jhhorse
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joe heins
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My problem was the fuel pump. The lesson I learned chasing my problem is check and double check the basics. My local mechanic said fuel pressure was good, but he did not realize you need about 34 psi for the d90 to run well. So when a real land rover expert at JC british in Denver looked, they found 25 psi and I got a new pump, problem solved.

I did not have alternator problems.

I did have an O2 sensor get chewed up by something bouncing up into and amplified the symptoms and the lean condition from the bad pump will continuously pop a 44 or 45 codes, which make troubleshooting difficult without an accurate fuel pressure check.

Since the new fuel pump it is like a different truck, actually feels like it might have a little horsepower ( a little)!

Joe
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  #35  
Old November 14th, 2011, 10:01 AM
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Chris Davis
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Add one more solution to the list of "truck loses power at xxxx RPM". This problem seems to come up every year-- might to be good to have a list of the rpm/power symptoms and solutions (if anyone has the time to compile) :-)
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