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  #21  
Old November 4th, 2014, 10:21 AM
fireball
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Ben
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@uncledouglas - definitely like upgrading the fusing and wiring, sounds like a good place to start.

@npt90 - "cross members, outriggers and spring mounts for structural. Bushings, tie rods, and steering boxes for stability" Hopefully I am spending a bit more on the initial truck so don't have to worry about cross members, outriggers and structural issues! A bushing kit sounds like a good idea. If I do that early on I'll have most thing on and off the truck at least once! Should be a nice "get to know you" project,

TR and steering...are these notorious weak points? Generally speaking what size tire is the OEM steering capable to handle? Are 33s too big?
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  #22  
Old November 4th, 2014, 10:23 AM
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Jafir Elkurd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fireball View Post
TR and steering...are these notorious weak points? Generally speaking what size tire is the OEM steering capable to handle? Are 33s too big?
Stock tires on a defender are 32" so I'd think 33" will be no problem.
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  #23  
Old November 4th, 2014, 01:13 PM
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Brendan
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255/85/16 BFG MT which is 33" diameter run well on stock suspension.

If doing a lot of offroad work where you might need maximum articulation then you might need to consider a lift etc.
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  #24  
Old November 5th, 2014, 08:40 AM
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Ben
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255/85/16 would probably be the size I'd go with, and it looks like there are lots of options out there for a small 1-2" lift.

At 1-2" of lift is that minor enough to not need other considerations, changes to steering geometry, pinion angle, etc, or am I opening up another can of worms?

Just checked out some brake rebuild kit parts here, ouch! Might take some adjusting to LR part pricing...
http://www.rdsparts.com/
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  #25  
Old November 5th, 2014, 09:23 AM
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From experience, you can lift the front of the truck by 2 inches without changing anything.
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  #26  
Old November 6th, 2014, 07:36 AM
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Ben
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Guys - quick thanks for all the handy bits of advise! Sounds like it'll work out as I hoped.

Now back to the patient search finding the right one!

Any last bits of advise now that the wife's permission has been obtained and the wallet is primed and ready??
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  #27  
Old November 6th, 2014, 07:44 AM
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Yes. Close the wallet again and dial down he excitement before shopping for one. You should be able to walk away from a potential truck no matter what, as there is a lot of junk out there. Buy the wrong truck and you will end up wit more of a project than you are able to handle.
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  #28  
Old November 6th, 2014, 08:38 AM
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Raub A.
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Ben, you might think about a Tithonus or other 110. I ditched my 90 because of the kids, their stuff and my cooler of beer wouldn't all fit at the same time. Didn't want to leave the kids behind so I went 110. I semi DD mine.
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  #29  
Old November 6th, 2014, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daddymow View Post
Ben, you might think about a Tithonus or other 110. I ditched my 90 because of the kids, their stuff and my cooler of beer wouldn't all fit at the same time. Didn't want to leave the beer behind so I went 110. I semi DD mine.
Fixed it for you
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  #30  
Old November 6th, 2014, 09:19 PM
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Ben
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Quick question - can the bulkhead behind the front seats be removed or cut or is it structural? I'm thinking it would be nice to have no middle front seat and have access to the back.
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  #31  
Old November 6th, 2014, 09:21 PM
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Jafir Elkurd
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Originally Posted by fireball View Post
Quick question - can the bulkhead behind the front seats be removed or cut or is it structural? I'm thinking it would be nice to have no middle front seat and have access to the back.
http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/bulkhead-removal-bar.html

Or this style: http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/defender...0-p-17882.html
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  #32  
Old November 6th, 2014, 10:01 PM
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Raub A.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NPT90 View Post
Fixed it for you


Ha! Beer is NOT an option.
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  #33  
Old November 7th, 2014, 02:50 PM
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Ben
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ROW90 as a reliable "daily driver"

Jafir thanks for those links, that is exactly what I was looking for.

Daddy mow we have a 100 series land cruiser for the family trips. The 90 will be just for solo runs so I'm pretty sure that I'll be able to fit all of my gear and plenty of beer in the back of a 90. If it comes down to it I'll remove the passenger seat and stack a few cases in its place!
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  #34  
Old November 8th, 2014, 08:00 PM
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Robert Lynch
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I drove a nas90 at as a daily for 6 years.. You can fit a lot of crap for camping in them. Yeti 65 & a 20 no problems that'll work for a weekend of food and beer (but a fridge is better)
I also strap my oz rv-5 to the top and throw in a grill wood charcoal, chairs and cots for 2.
I started with a good one but if you keep on top of the care and feeding for the 90 they usually are fine once you iron out the initial issues
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  #35  
Old November 10th, 2014, 06:11 PM
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Mike & Carrie Wendt
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Here are my 2 cents.

In March 2013 I bought a 1986 ex-MoD (British Ministry of Defense) soft top 90 painted black and green camouflage. (WARNING! Don't buy one of these if you are shy. People will be asking you about it all the time)

It has the 2.5 normally aspirated diesel rated for some 65HP.

I do most of my own light maintenance and quite a bit of the heavy stuff.

First, if you want to do highway speed, you will likely need to change the transfer case. Mine felt like it was going to blow up at 55mph. For $150 or less you can buy a 1.2 ratio LT230 transfer case out of a Discovery and bolts right in. While it is out, change the transfer case seals and the rear transmission seal.

With the 1.2, I can usually do 70mph on level roads. And I get 22 to 24mpg at that speed.

I had a Nephew do this swap. He is a certified diesel mechanic but I could do the swap too.

I also had Great Basin Rover in Salt Lake City change the clutch master cylinder just because it looked like a PITA.

It has already been said but do a thorough inspection. Most all systems are common and parts are available and affordable (brakes, electrical, etc.) LOOK for frame rot! Look for rust in the bulkhead especially above the hood, next to the windshield hinges. Frame and bulkhead repair are EXPENSIVE!

I have no lift and bought Michelin highway truck tires since I put on a lot of road miles. (24000 so far.) These tires ride much smoother and are a lot quieter than the military mud tires.

These seem to all leak oil, mine does. In chasing down one leak, I decided to change the head gasket. This lead to finding the head had 2 cracks though it ran great and gave no indications of this type of problem. I changed the head myself and must brag that it started first try.

You have all the usual maintenance expected of a 30 some year old truck. My wife and I have driven it between Florida and Arizona 3 and a half times and will not hesitate to hit to road again anytime.

Questions?

Mike
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  #36  
Old November 10th, 2014, 07:24 PM
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Ben
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Hi Mike, thanks for your input.

I am surprised I haven't read/heard more about the t-case swap. 1.67 is the OEM high range so going from that to 1.22 would be a big improvement. Looks like they share the same low range gearing at 3.32:1 so what is the drawback of the swap?

What would the stock rear gearing be on an '84? (quick internet search, looks like 3.54s?)

Totally agree about the important bits. I do not want to be doing rust repair and am willing to spend more to get a cleaner example for a better starting point. I'm in no rush, this is a fun putz-about toy for me, and breaking off rusty bolts isn't my recipe for fun, so I'm happy to wait
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  #37  
Old November 10th, 2014, 07:36 PM
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Mike & Carrie Wendt
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I see zero downside to swapping the LT230 for a 1.2 ratio. If you want to go back to 100% original, just put the old one back in.

I'm not certain what the differential ratio is, and that is something I will research 'someday'.

Ask around for Forum members in your area (or close to your travels.) Just crawl over and under and look at the good and bad. Listen to their advise and experiences (good and bad.) This will give you a lot more knowledge when you are ready to buy.

I drove mine through Western Penn last summer, it's in Phoenix.

Mike
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  #38  
Old November 10th, 2014, 07:36 PM
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Jeff Labbé
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As for the t case there's a 1.4 that would be more suited (my own opinion). These 2.5 na are reliable but not much power output. With a 1.2 it will feels too tall of a gearing. If you go for a military one you might get the 1.6 . Try it and then figure out what's more suited for your need.

My two cents
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  #39  
Old November 10th, 2014, 07:58 PM
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Ben
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Is this information correct: http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/gear_ratio.htm

Looks like the stock t-case would be a 1.67:1 The stock diff gearing is 3.54, but looks like 4.11 and 4.7 might have been available at some point in time?

I'd be running 33" tires, and would love to be able to do 65-70mph on the highway. Rausch Creek is about an hour away. The PA state forests are 2hrs. Other than that, all the trips and events I'd plan on doing would be a bit further and require a fair bit of highway travel.

A quick search of the forum revealed this helpful bit of advise
Q: how can I get my defender to comfortably go 75+ down the highway?
A: Tow it.
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  #40  
Old November 11th, 2014, 02:30 PM
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Ben Goodwin
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My advice as someone who took on a ROW 90 with similar aspirations, would be to go thru and write up everything you want to do. Then get all your parts from rovahfarm, rovers north, rds, etc. suppliers that mainly stick to replacement oem parts. Don't even look at the classifieds on here until you are finished. There are too many distracting wonderful little parts and gadgets out there that you end up redoing everything three times and you never get to drive it because it's in pieces in three different garages. There really isn't any part or upgrade you can't find on these forums which is fantastic but it's like being an alcoholic junkie sex addict with a wad of cash in Vegas and you will never make it out alive!
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