ROW chassis frame: wiring inside? - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old June 15th, 2016, 12:00 AM
DailyDrivenDefende
Status: Offline
Michael
1989 110, 1985 90 200TDI
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 353
ROW chassis frame: wiring inside?

Hi guys,

I am getting ready to replace my rear cross member for my D90 ROW.

What function does the wiring in the right chassis frame rail do?

TIA
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old June 15th, 2016, 12:27 AM
One Ten's Avatar
One Ten
Status: Offline
Sam
1994 NAS SW
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1,200
Tail lights, wiper/heated glass in rear door
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old June 15th, 2016, 02:07 PM
DailyDrivenDefende
Status: Offline
Michael
1989 110, 1985 90 200TDI
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 353
Do I need to undo the wiring on the tail lights to snake it back onto the new crossmember?
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old June 15th, 2016, 02:22 PM
seaswood
Status: Offline
Craig
Diesel
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Woods Hole
Posts: 202
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrivenDefende View Post
Do I need to undo the wiring on the tail lights to snake it back onto the new crossmember?
If replacing involves welding you will want to pull those wires forward out of the way, I would think. Depending where the weld is. Wires are all color coded.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old June 15th, 2016, 02:55 PM
Uncle Douglas's Avatar
Uncle Douglas
Status: Offline
Doug Crowther
A defender in every driveway-motto
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Gods Country- Central Virginia
Posts: 11,833
Registry
Harness is for everything on the back of your truck, depending on how your truck is equipped. In order to replace just the cross member you would only need to unplug everything to get the wiring out of the way. If you are doing a cross member with extension's, Ie cutting off the frame rail on ea side you must be very careful not to cut the harness. You either need to remove it or be very careful.
__________________
Good judgement comes from experience,experience comes from bad judgement.

Dividing Creek Imports
Worldwide Vehicle Shipment and Importation Service
Restoration & Modification work


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

410.693.1391


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old June 15th, 2016, 08:13 PM
DailyDrivenDefende
Status: Offline
Michael
1989 110, 1985 90 200TDI
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 353
I am doing the cross member with extension.


Now, I haven't been under it yet to study the pigtails on these lights, would these simply pull through the old frame rail?


I suppose I will have to cut a window where I can see these and pull these through.


How are these done on frame chassis swap?
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old June 15th, 2016, 10:11 PM
CDN38's Avatar
CDN38
Status: Offline
Scott Pelly
2000 110 TD5
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 951
Registry
I have seen a few come from the UK where they tried to do the repair while working around the harness. Doesn't work. Wires get cut, and are re-attached with crappy splices, or worse, get melted from welding in close proximity.

Pull the harness forward out of harm's way. Lots of extra work, but like most Landrover things, short cutting usually comes back on you.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old June 16th, 2016, 10:59 AM
DailyDrivenDefende
Status: Offline
Michael
1989 110, 1985 90 200TDI
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 353
Ok. I will be cutting it up then pull it out, reroute outside with new cross member and solder or place quick water proof connector instead.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old June 16th, 2016, 03:01 PM
broadstone's Avatar
broadstone
Status: Offline
Chris
'84 CSW 90 '74 NADA III '97 CSW 110
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Dorset UK / CT USA
Posts: 662
Registry
I run a 4-6 long lines of mig wire twisted and taped together every 6 inches, tie it off to the end of the wiring harness and tape off really well to avoid it snagging. Then pull it back at least 2 feet away from where you are welding or pull out completely if doing other chassis repairs. Then once welded just pull back through. I would get the harness out of the way before cutting. There should not be any reason to cut another opening just to pull the harness out or back through when finished.
__________________
Patches are for Pirates and pants, not a bulkhead and chassis!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old June 16th, 2016, 03:06 PM
CDN38's Avatar
CDN38
Status: Offline
Scott Pelly
2000 110 TD5
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 951
Registry
Very sound advice broadstone
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old June 16th, 2016, 05:05 PM
DailyDrivenDefende
Status: Offline
Michael
1989 110, 1985 90 200TDI
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 353
Ok. I have not crawled under the truck to figure this out yet but my question is, how do you pull the wires initially away from the spot you are cutting at? Do you pull it from the front of the vehicle? You do have to pull it from somewhere so that you can move the harness away from the spot you are cutting at. See where I am coming from?
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old June 16th, 2016, 05:21 PM
broadstone's Avatar
broadstone
Status: Offline
Chris
'84 CSW 90 '74 NADA III '97 CSW 110
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Dorset UK / CT USA
Posts: 662
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrivenDefende View Post
Ok. I have not crawled under the truck to figure this out yet but my question is, how do you pull the wires initially away from the spot you are cutting at? Do you pull it from the front of the vehicle? You do have to pull it from somewhere so that you can move the harness away from the spot you are cutting at. See where I am coming from?
Disconnect the wiring harness from the connections at the rear x-member (attach mig wire or other snake for the return pull once finished) and pull the harness out from the front where it enters the chassis.
__________________
Patches are for Pirates and pants, not a bulkhead and chassis!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
wiring

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
What adds more value: early original chassis or galvanized chassis? nathanwind Misc. Chit-Chat 25 December 7th, 2012 09:49 AM
POR-15 the inside of the frame? Rufus Defender Technical Discussions 9 February 25th, 2011 12:43 AM
Galvanized Rear suspension a-frame to chassis mounting brackets dave_lucas For Sale - Parts 7 December 18th, 2010 04:52 PM
Where can I find the pads that go on the cage bar inside the SW? Pic inside... KKilo23 Defender Technical Discussions 6 June 26th, 2009 05:36 PM
110 frame or rolling chassis needs crossmember evilfij For Sale - Parts 9 May 2nd, 2009 10:11 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:56 AM.


Copyright