ROW 110 200TDI First major failure... - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 27th, 2014, 08:12 AM
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ROW 110 200TDI First major failure...



Alright boys! I was driving home from our camp last on Sunday night when all of a sudden I couldn't shift anymore. When I pushed the clutch in, it still felt normal, I just couldn't get it to go in and out of gear. I inspected the operation of the salve cylinder and it appeared to be working properly. Then I read on the site about failed clutch forks and went for it.



I was surprised and disappointed to find the fork and throw out bearing in fine condition. However when I looked at the pressure plate, it looked kinda strange. The fingers of the plate were flat looking compared to other cars I've owned.

Then I found this:


What a shame. The disc material looks like it's brand new. Is this a poorly made part or what?

I'm trying to figure out what parts to order and where to order them from? I see on RN Proline Vs Genuine? Heavy duty vs regular? What about aftermarket stuff? Any experiences? What's this heavy duty fork all about?

I'm also trying to get a list of things to do "while I'm in there".
- Clutch kit
- Clutch fork upgrade?
- Rear main seal
- Starter is going to the rebuild shop
- New engine ground strap

Thanks for the advice fellas!
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  #2  
Old May 27th, 2014, 08:43 AM
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It would appear that it did what it was supposed to and absorb the brunt of a great whack without damaging the engine and/or transmission. Some huge force there.
Valeo Heavy duty friction plate and clutch plate. Not cheap. The kit from Rovahfarm is about 270 clams. Don't forget a new arm, staple and the little plastic clip for the push rod. The heavy duty arm simply has an extra bit of plate welded on the back to reinforce the pushrod cup.
I'd also renew the clutch hose and the master/slave cylinder, but that's just me being me.
Interesting that you removed the engine to repair this.
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  #3  
Old May 27th, 2014, 08:43 AM
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Not sure about clutches but Roversnorth sent me two coolant temp sensors that were defective. I guess you get what you pay for.
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  #4  
Old May 27th, 2014, 08:47 AM
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PS if you don't have a clutch alignment tool, you can make one by wrapping blue painter's tape around a short bit of 1/2 copper plumbing pipe
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  #5  
Old May 27th, 2014, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
It would appear that it did what it was supposed to and absorb the brunt of a great whack without damaging the engine and/or transmission. Some huge force there.
Valeo Heavy duty friction plate and clutch plate. Not cheap. The kit from Rovahfarm is about 270 clams. Don't forget a new arm, staple and the little plastic clip for the push rod. The heavy duty arm simply has an extra bit of plate welded on the back to reinforce the pushrod cup.
I'd also renew the clutch hose and the master/slave cylinder, but that's just me being me.
Interesting that you removed the engine to repair this.

Thanks for the tips!

I pulled the engine because I figured it would be a good time to get acquainted with everything in the truck and repair a bunch of shoddy wiring. Also easier than working on the floor, and I have a cooling issue and have to flush all the pond water out of the engine anyhow.
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  #6  
Old May 27th, 2014, 10:02 AM
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like Bill said go for the reinforced throw out arm (they fail @ the pivot point) and get the clutch disc and pressure plate listed for a 130/ie hd versions.
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Old May 27th, 2014, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
Not sure about clutches but Roversnorth sent me two coolant temp sensors that were defective. I guess you get what you pay for.
Were they Genuine? I got two bad ones through Land Rover. They were the incorrect resistance for the Defender gauge. The one I got from Atlantic British is the correct resistance.
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  #8  
Old May 27th, 2014, 10:16 AM
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I would also get the throwout bearing with the aluminum housing instead of the stock plastic one.
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  #9  
Old May 27th, 2014, 01:31 PM
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Excellent. Thank you so much guys.

Next Question: All of the intake and turbo plumbing hoses have been hacked and lengthened with big steel nipples since the engine was swapped over.

Do they make hoses that are the correct length for a 200TDI swapped into an LT77 truck?
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Old May 27th, 2014, 01:58 PM
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Sorry? Disco 200TDI into Defender and LT77?

Steve Parker sells parts for that: http://steveparkers.com/conversions/...ry-90-110.html
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  #11  
Old May 27th, 2014, 02:08 PM
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If it has had a "less than professional" conversion.... You should check on other things..... Has the clutch housing been bolted into the ladder frame at the bottom? The Disco clutch housing is bolted through the flywheel on the Discovery, but that option does not exist on the Defender LT77 bellhousing and you need to add countersunk bolts. The "hack jobbers" don't do this.....

What suffix is the gearbox? If less than "F" plan for it to not last a long time.
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  #12  
Old May 27th, 2014, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
If it has had a "less than professional" conversion.... You should check on other things..... Has the clutch housing been bolted into the ladder frame at the bottom? The Disco clutch housing is bolted through the flywheel on the Discovery, but that option does not exist on the Defender LT77 bellhousing and you need to add countersunk bolts. The "hack jobbers" don't do this.....

What suffix is the gearbox? If less than "F" plan for it to not last a long time.
Yes the engine is a 200TDI out of a Disco.

Hrm... I'll take some pictures of the bellhousing tomorrow. This is definitely not a clean swap...

I'll also look up the gearbox suffix for reference.
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  #13  
Old May 27th, 2014, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
I would also get the throwout bearing with the aluminum housing instead of the stock plastic one.
Where can one source this?
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  #14  
Old May 28th, 2014, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Where can one source this?

RovahFarm lists their upgraded throw out bearing as made by SKF. Not sure if that's aluminum or not.
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  #15  
Old May 28th, 2014, 07:43 AM
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I dunno about "correct" swap turbo plumbing. What I did was buy 2" ally bends from cxracing.com along with a selection of (black) silicone bends and went to work. I was making something completely non standard, so it took me longer than it would for you I'm sure.
You might also b interested in item IC0003-25 on their site.
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Old May 28th, 2014, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post

Where can one source this?
The aluminum part is manufactured by rakeway, # ftc5200hd
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  #17  
Old May 28th, 2014, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
The aluminum part is manufactured by rakeway, # ftc5200hd
Dammit. Totally could have used that information when I did my clutch! I *think* I'm already having issues with the crappy OEM bearing (2500 miles, <8 months).
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Old May 28th, 2014, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
The aluminum part is manufactured by rakeway, # ftc5200hd

But does anybody stock this here in the US of A?
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  #19  
Old May 28th, 2014, 02:50 PM
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But does anybody stock this here in the US of A?
Even if not, I'd say it's worth ordering up from the UK (shouldn't take more than a week to get).
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Old May 28th, 2014, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
I would also get the throwout bearing with the aluminum housing instead of the stock plastic one.
Indeed!
I had a OEM throwout bearing detonate without warning causing damage to the clutch fork pivot and other internals. Many of the same symptoms as the OP here, but I had 50% clutch because the fork was only pivoting on one of the pins. the other was banged up and loose. The entire arrangement fell apart as soon as the housing was separated.

Such a small (poorly made) part caused a lot of damage. Definately get an upgraded bearing, and upgraded fork as well (or have the back of the dimple reinforced where the slave cylinder pushes).
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