Rotor Arm replacement 3.9 v8 - quick question - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 3rd, 2011, 11:06 PM
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Geoff
1993 Defender 110 NAS
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Rotor Arm replacement 3.9 v8 - quick question

So replaced spark plugs, wires, ignition coil, distributor cap, beefed up some harnesses, etc., and was about to replace the rotor arm under the cap and I'm not sure how to remove the one in there currently. Read the shop manual and it's not clear on how to do it and I don't want to force it. Any ideas? pic attached.
Many thanks!
Geoff

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  #2  
Old September 4th, 2011, 01:03 AM
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Mike
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Thumbs up

Gently pull upwards...it will come off.
Put a few drops of oil on the shaft...
BTW, that engine looks exremely clean...

Cheers...
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  #3  
Old September 4th, 2011, 08:00 AM
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Geoff
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Rotor

Definitely trying to pull it gently although have also tried quite firmly on the rotor arm but it's definitely stuck. In fact it's sticking to what I think is the "distributor cam" based on the schematic. when I pull the rotor, the distributor can pulls up as well to it's limit (maybe 1/8" movement upwards). Wonder if I should be trying to get a lubricant up in between the rotor and the cam?

regular engine oil for the shaft btw?

One other little dilemma, I was going to replace the ignition module (I was trouble shooting the ignition, so bought lots of parts related to it), but it's screws are very hard to access on the side of the distributor and no way I'm taking that sucker out in order to access it! (w/ my level of skills!)

Thanks again!
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  #4  
Old September 4th, 2011, 09:45 AM
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Phillip
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Some people break it with a chisel, I've never done it. Pulling does risk some damage but I've pulled two off that were extrfemely stuck with no damage. I use anitiseize when I reinstall makes life very easy down the road. That's a clean engine compartment post some more photos of your truck. Good luck.
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  #5  
Old September 4th, 2011, 09:57 AM
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Geoff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
Some people break it with a chisel, I've never done it. Pulling does risk some damage but I've pulled two off that were extrfemely stuck with no damage. I use anitiseize when I reinstall makes life very easy down the road. That's a clean engine compartment post some more photos of your truck. Good luck.
Wow... that sounds a little scarry.... (I'm admittedly new to this). I'll give it another go, and have ordered some Antiseize for the next application.

Will take a few pics of it today and post
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Old September 4th, 2011, 11:43 AM
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Mike
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Thumbs up

When pulling up on the rotor, wiggle it (the rotor that is) by pulling/pushing on the terminal end to break it free.
I would'nt use a chisel, just be patient with it...
There is a metal strip in the rotor bore that gives a tight fit. Using anti-sieze is a good idea, I put oil on it.
So your ign. mod is mounted on the dist.? Is yours acting up? Wouldn't be a bad idea to have a spare handy...

Cheers...
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  #7  
Old September 4th, 2011, 05:23 PM
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kevin
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If you still can't pull that rotor off after the above mentioned method of rocking it, use a lever. It can be a pry bar or screwdriver. Just make sure that the fulcrum is not directly on the distributor. I usually use a scap of wood that is the right height for the fulcrum and just lever the rotor right off. Some rotors are just prone to offering a lot of resistance because they have a metal spring tab that wedges the rotor to the shaft as you pull on it.
Of course it's a lot easier to just pull the distributor and that might be a better option for you given you are replacing the module.
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  #8  
Old September 6th, 2011, 07:49 AM
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J. Michael McCaig
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Be careful! If you pull too hard on the rotor and the shaft moves, the springs on the advance weights in the lower part of the distributor can fly off and then you will have a mess for sure. Much better to crack the rotor with a chisel if you don't have any luck with the methods the others have discribed.
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  #9  
Old September 6th, 2011, 08:57 AM
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Keith Armstrong
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Rather than risk breaking the wimpy plastic retainer underneath (!), I've scored the side with a dremel & thin cutting disc then whacked it with a small hammer & chisel.

Not nearly as nerve wracking as wondering when the retainer will snap.
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  #10  
Old September 6th, 2011, 12:24 PM
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Jake K.
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Take the dust shield loose and stick a flathead under the rotor and twist it to pry the rotor up. They pop right off that way and oil the new rotor so next time it won't do this. Yanking up will only bust the little nylon bush seating the two shafts together and then you have to pull the whole thing apart to seat everything back. To get to the little screws retaining the amplifier...loosen the dizzy and rotate it around till you can access the screws. You'll have to set the timing afterwards but you need to do this anyway when doing a proper service.
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  #11  
Old September 6th, 2011, 01:07 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Regarding the ignition module, on my trucks I have found that the little vacuum assembly hits the coolant house neck before being able to rotate it to a useful position. Getting the ignition module off sucks either way. If you don't mind spending some money, now would be the time to relocate it. You can get the used parts needed from cheaply from Will Tillery, otherwise the usual suspects offer them new (but they are pricey).
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