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  #41  
Old June 7th, 2012, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
Wolf,
If i have it galvanized why would I worry about water getting it, as long as there are drain holes so it doesn't sit there for long wouldn't the rack be basically rust proof (for a long time at least), even if water got inside (since everything would be coated inside and out?
My point was avoid extranious holes if you are painting it.
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  #42  
Old June 7th, 2012, 01:00 PM
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I'm not a fan of the fiberglass mainly because i wouldn't feel comfortable bolting things through it. Also it may be rigid, but how strong is it really?
Crazy strong for its size and weight. Use it as you would aluminum tube. For thru bolting I just drill an oversize hole and glue in a tube that's the same size as the bolt, just as if you were welding in a tube on a steel frame. The other thing you can do is glue in reinforcing tubes before assembling. Another method is to sleev it internally or externally if you are worried about it. Or, use a backing plate on your bolts.

Quote:
Can you put a tie strap on it and ratchet it down without worry of it breaking?
Yes, but it will deflect quite a lot rather than break. If you have to rachet so much that you are bending it then you are over tightening the straps.

Quote:
That being said i can see a hundred other uses for the stuff and certainly will keep it in mind.... great find!
Once you try it you will be a fan.

One other source for round tube, if you don't mind the short segments, is ex-mil camo netting support poles. You can get loads of them from ebay for next to nothing. They fit together and if you glue up the connections to make long lengths you'd never guess they were made of short pieces.
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  #43  
Old June 8th, 2012, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Crazy strong for its size and weight. Use it as you would aluminum tube. For thru bolting I just drill an oversize hole and glue in a tube that's the same size as the bolt, just as if you were welding in a tube on a steel frame. The other thing you can do is glue in reinforcing tubes before assembling. Another method is to sleev it internally or externally if you are worried about it. Or, use a backing plate on your bolts.



Yes, but it will deflect quite a lot rather than break. If you have to rachet so much that you are bending it then you are over tightening the straps.


Once you try it you will be a fan.

One other source for round tube, if you don't mind the short segments, is ex-mil camo netting support poles. You can get loads of them from ebay for next to nothing. They fit together and if you glue up the connections to make long lengths you'd never guess they were made of short pieces.
I'm intrigued by this. I don't see why it wouldn't work very very well. The idea of being able to not worry about corrosion alone makes it worth checking out. I guess you could make one out of a mix of fiberglass and aluminum if you really wanted some metal on it giving you the best of both worlds.
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  #44  
Old June 22nd, 2012, 10:42 AM
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SO its finally on the truck. I decided to just go ape shit with rattle can.

Went through 3+ cans of primer, 4 cans of color, and another 2 cans of clear. I cant "see" any nooks any crannies that didnt get painted, but time will tell.

Fit is great. The legs all fit well, the clamps are all tight and secure, its very close to the roofline (doesn't stick way up high), and even with the sides/rear/front.

Weight - as mentioned, a bit heavier than I would like, but working with steel is 100x easier than aluminum, especially b/c I can't weld AL. Id say its about 100-110lbs


Take-aways: If i was to do it again I would have used lighter steel. By itself one piece had some flex, but once i welded some pieces together it got super rigid. I'm sure I could have used 16 or even 18awg tubing, 1" instead of 2x1 side and center rails/spines. Also I would have used that poultry flooring stuff. I figured it would be way to weak and flimsy, but then the other weekend at rausch someone had it and its alot more robust than the pictures lead you to believe. I am happy with the fit, the way the clamps work. Also I would have rounded the front corners to make it more aestically pleasing. I'm glad I went WITHOUT the basket. Really no need for one since your gonna strap everything down anyways.


I'll use it for a bit and see how I like it. As mentioned before this was a welding/fabricating learning expierence for me, and all in all maybe I have $200 into it, and what I learned was worth more than that. So if I dont like it in time, I'll build a new one with the knowledge I have from this one.
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  #45  
Old June 22nd, 2012, 10:49 AM
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Looks good, now load it up and journey out west!!
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  #46  
Old June 22nd, 2012, 11:10 AM
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Thanks! Its in the plans trust me! Gonna take it to the beach tonight, maybe do some surfing, than throw the chairs up on the top, bring a bucket of cold ones and watch the sunset from the roof!
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  #47  
Old June 23rd, 2012, 04:41 AM
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If anyone is thinking of an alternative rack system for a 90 ST I had one built. It is a copy of the C hoop with 2 tabs on the top with bolt holes. The second part is 2 runners welded to a brace that goes from over the door bar to over the door bar. The only mod I did was cut 2 holes in the Ticford for the top mounts on the C hoop to stick through. I can post pics but will take it to a diffent thread if anyone is interested. With the runners you can bolt a roof top tent or basket to it. We currently run the roof top tent (and this one is a heavy SOB) during the warmer seasons and hit the offroad spots. It was much cheaper that an external rack with the smalll ladders etc.
Adrian I wish you much sucess with the rack, to bad yours is not a ST.
Clay
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  #48  
Old July 9th, 2012, 09:06 PM
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So about a month or so later with it on the truck, figured i'd post some updates.

The rack is still sturdy as could be, with two people on it moving around it doesn't budge, wobble, bend or anything. I swear you could pull the truck by this thing (not that i would seriously try).

The paint is actually holding up really well, but I am having a little trouble with rust drips, not from the expanded metal, but what I'm guessing are some pin holes in the welds allowing water in, it pooling and rusting the inside, then slowly drip dripping its way out over the following few days. The result are some random rust colored drips on the roof, side of the truck, and splatter on the rack. They wipe right off the painted surfaces very easy, but obviously its less than appealing to look at. Its not horrible, just some spots here and there... but i know its not going to fix itself.

Sooo... the plan is in the near future to take it off, drill a couple of holes in each tube, and get it galnvanized. Got quoted 140 bucks for the whole thing and all the clamps. Just need to find the time and a couple helping hands to take it off and put it back on again. Will probably wait until i build the latter and have them both done at the same time.
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  #49  
Old July 9th, 2012, 10:14 PM
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Adrian, where are you going for galvanizing? I've got a hitch mount cooler/fishing rack that I want to get galv'd .. and some other random parts.


~Steve
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  #50  
Old July 10th, 2012, 12:42 AM
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Adrian we have a guy in NJ who is going to do a galvy run soon. He has to do 2 series I chassis' and a bulkhead I believe. He wants to know if anyone wants to throw in some pieces.
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  #51  
Old July 10th, 2012, 11:09 AM
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Dan, let me know if I can put a few bits in the galv run.. Who where when.

Thanks
~Steve
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  #52  
Old July 10th, 2012, 11:28 AM
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will do Steve.
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  #53  
Old July 10th, 2012, 05:17 PM
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I was gonna use v and s galvanizing in south amboy.


Let me know if we should combing everything and when
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  #54  
Old August 19th, 2012, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429
I was gonna use v and s galvanizing in south amboy.

Let me know if we should combing everything and when
Well. Finished product. With ladder. Galvanizing should smooth out and even out in color over the next few months. No more annoying rust drips hopefully!
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  #55  
Old August 19th, 2012, 07:39 PM
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What is the receptacle on the front RH slider for ?
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  #56  
Old August 19th, 2012, 08:38 PM
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A jack. But I would just put my hi lift under the slider when needed
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  #57  
Old August 19th, 2012, 08:51 PM
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truck looks great adrian!
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  #58  
Old August 19th, 2012, 08:55 PM
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Thanks man! Getting to where I want it to be, and its running really well (knock on wood)
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  #59  
Old August 19th, 2012, 08:59 PM
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well thats always to plus!
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