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  #21  
Old June 6th, 2012, 04:58 PM
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So here are some pics. Did it all in steel. Don't have a scale but I'd say it's just over 100lbs. Sturdy as hell. Going to get powder coated. Left the sides open so I have many strap down points

I'm just debating if I want to add anything before it gets coated. Mounts for off road lights, hi lift mount, But I'm think all that can get bolted on later
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  #22  
Old June 6th, 2012, 06:29 PM
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By no means is this a bash on your rack, but expanded steel for flooring on any rack is a poor choice. There is no way you can paint it or powder coat enough to prevent rust.
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  #23  
Old June 6th, 2012, 07:43 PM
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I appreciate that info. No insult taken. What Bout galvanizing the rack instead of pc it?

Why is it so hard to pc?
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  #24  
Old June 6th, 2012, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
I appreciate that info. No insult taken. What Bout galvanizing the rack instead of pc it?

Why is it so hard to pc?
there are so many small corners and holes that will make it hard for the powder to hit EVERY corner or gape.
galvy would be a good option
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  #25  
Old June 6th, 2012, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429
I appreciate that info. No insult taken. What Bout galvanizing the rack instead of pc it?

Why is it so hard to pc?
The issue is all the nooks and crannies, and I guarantee you didn't weld them all up, nor can you be expected to. Even PC can penetrate or seal those areas. With paint or PC, it will show rust within a few weeks. I see this all the time on aftermarket Jeep racks. I flat out advise my customers to stay away from the stuff, no matter how practical or cheap it is to install.

Galvanizing is probably your best bet, or just plan on touching up the rack every few months if you park outside.
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  #26  
Old June 6th, 2012, 08:44 PM
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Glad I posted. I welded a lot of those nooks. But not everyone for sure. Can you paint galvanized metal?
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  #27  
Old June 6th, 2012, 08:49 PM
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Yes but special prep is required.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429
Glad I posted. I welded a lot of those nooks. But not everyone for sure. Can you paint galvanized metal?
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  #28  
Old June 6th, 2012, 08:51 PM
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Care to elaborate. I don't mind the galvy look but not sure which iI'd like better
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  #29  
Old June 6th, 2012, 08:53 PM
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you can actually powder coat galvanized metal
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  #30  
Old June 6th, 2012, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killahaas View Post
you can actually powder coat galvanized metal
x2

That way you will have the ultimate rust protection and have the black finish you desire.



What are you using for the gutter mount feet? I would like to find a source for those for my eventual rack build.
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  #31  
Old June 6th, 2012, 10:51 PM
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Great to know - i thought the galvanized coating would get ruined in the baking process of the PC

The feet were from here - http://www.jcroffroad.com/mm5/mercha...t_Code=RCKMNTS

But the risers were way to short. so I ditched them and made my own, and only used the bottom clips. Then I realized I needed 4 more and just made my own out of some 1/8" steel. Very very simple design to make/copy. The risers are just 2" flat bar, 3/16 thick with a hole drilled 1/2" from the bottom and a nut welded to the back side of the hole. I cut the corners off the bottom so it would fit in between the dimples that hold the rain gutter together. I'll be glad to make you one for you to copy. No need to spend the coin on someone elses if you have some time, some steel, a drill/drill press, a torch, a hammer, and a vise and a welder or a threading tool kit.

I realize how incredibly strong these gutters are. I was doing pull ups off it today (literally) to test it, and it barely moved. I weight 180lbs. Being that I have 10' i'm not worried about that gutter holding 500lbs without a issue. Also once I make the ladder that will hold even more weight (as it will have another anchor point at the rear cross member).


One more crazy Idea I came up with - whats your guys thoughts.

Since I did "over build" this thing a little, I was wondering if I could get away with drilling/cutting 1.25"-1.5" holes every 2-3" down the side rails. I figured this would give me limitless points to put tie down straps on easily, reduce the weight a bit (mabye 5-10lbs), and possibly look pretty cool. Structurally I think it would be plenty strong still. If I'm glavanzing it this would allow for the inside to get coated as well since they dip it so I wouldn't worry about water getting in there(at least for the side rails i'm going to drill some drain holes anyways). The front and rear perimeters would remain un touched.

Only down side I can think is possibly more wind resistance but it can't be much more, and I'll probably go through 3-4 hole saws by the time I'm done.

------ Follow up post added June 6th, 2012 10:56 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpayne View Post
x2

That way you will have the ultimate rust protection and have the black finish you desire.



What are you using for the gutter mount feet? I would like to find a source for those for my eventual rack build.

uhh i just clicked on your website. if you can make that rolling ball thing, you should be able to design some feet 100x better than mine in your sleep.

Mine work fine but that sculpture is awesome!
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  #32  
Old June 6th, 2012, 11:14 PM
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If you drilled all those holes wouldn't you have to dimple them to keep rigidity?
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  #33  
Old June 6th, 2012, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
uhh i just clicked on your website. if you can make that rolling ball thing, you should be able to design some feet 100x better than mine in your sleep.

Mine work fine but that sculpture is awesome!
Thank you. I will look at those feet and work on the design.



If you go the galvanize route they will insist that you have at least a few holes for the molten zinc to penetrate the inside of the tubing. You might want to talk to them and figure out what they want. Also, if you drill those big holes you would want some protection from the sharp edge of the tubing. Maybe like a round tube sleeve welded in there, but then that would close off the cavity for the galvanizing operation.
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  #34  
Old June 6th, 2012, 11:23 PM
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With all the cross bars and flooring it's plenty rigid believe me


As for the edges I would maybe just file them down and smooth it out a bit. I wouldn't sleeve them as that would make it difficult to put a tie down hook in there. I need that edge for it to grab on to
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  #35  
Old June 7th, 2012, 06:44 AM
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Keep in mind that those holes will make what is going to be a noisy thing very much noisier. Noise is one of the considerations seldom taken when designing roof hardware (no offense intended).

As a side note, galvanizers require holes in closed tubes not just to get the zinc inside (and back out) specifically but to allow the part to 1. eliminate trapped gases 2. allowing the part to sink (not always easy when trying to immerse in zinc.) Careful attention has to be paid to location of holes and the "hang" of the part.

Keep in mind that zinc coating will add a considerable amount of weight.

Powder coating over zinc works extremely well
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  #36  
Old June 7th, 2012, 07:15 AM
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I deff thought about the noise issue. Just not sure if it matters to me or not lol

Galvanizing adds 3.5-10%. In weight. So we are talking maybe 10lbs. Which again matters but if this is going to be the best rust proofing it's probably 10lbs well spent

Decisions decisions
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  #37  
Old June 7th, 2012, 08:10 AM
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Well, now that you have it all done, I'll chime in with my own materials topspin. If you wanted strength combined with light weight and corrosion resistance, then I would have suggested that you build it from Fiberglas tubing. This comes in round or square in inch sizes up to 8 feet long, has excellent strength and rigidity, can be cut with a chop saw (with an abrasive disc blade) and assembled with thickened (glass microfiber) epoxy. The tubes come raw in a green color which is easily painted with very little surface prep save for the glued joints.
I have used this material for a variety of outdoor projects including the windmill frame.
I think a rack built from a combination of the round and square tubing would be very robust and attractive.
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  #38  
Old June 7th, 2012, 08:27 AM
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In it's present state, I would not waste $$ on PC unless you galvanize it first. You are better off with primer and rattle can, then touch up as needed. Keep in mind, the more holes you drill, the more points for water to ingress. If you do drill holes, perhaps sleeve them.
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  #39  
Old June 7th, 2012, 12:43 PM
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I spoke with my powder coater, and he too reccomended galvanizing it. I'll see how much thats gonna cost.

This was every bit as much of a learning expierence for me (welding, fabricating) as it was building a roof rack. Kept me busy for almost 2 weeks and for maybe $200 in material it was worth every penny, even if i just scrapped it (which I'm not).

I'm not a fan of the fiberglass mainly because i wouldn't feel comfortable bolting things through it. Also it may be rigid, but how strong is it really? Can you put a tie strap on it and ratchet it down without worry of it breaking? That being said i can see a hundred other uses for the stuff and certainly will keep it in mind.... great find!

Wolf,
If i have it galvanized why would I worry about water getting it, as long as there are drain holes so it doesn't sit there for long wouldn't the rack be basically rust proof (for a long time at least), even if water got inside (since everything would be coated inside and out?
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  #40  
Old June 7th, 2012, 12:48 PM
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There is a galvanizer near Newark airport that is relatively cheap.
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