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  #21  
Old January 24th, 2011, 11:57 PM
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Robert Ragland
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Comparing the F-150 and a LR is wrong entirely. If I'm not mistaken, NAS Defenders were modified with cages because they did not meet US standards. Keep in mind, those standards for trucks in the early 90's were pretty weak as it was. As well, have you ever felt the aluminum roof of a Rover off the truck? Driving without a cage is more akin to driving an old MB or early CJ with no roll bar.

And by the way, what you are describing is referred to as a "light bar". Truck accessory catalogs use this label as such parts have no function whatsoever in event of a roll. The only use is decoration and to provide a mount for lights. Worse, on a Rover you will be relying on sheet aluminum to hold this in place if its not tied into the frame. The steel truck bed of an F-150 offers a degree of rigidity aluminum can't.

Do the wife a favor - skip the light bar and put the money into a term life policy in force for the duration of ownership.
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  #22  
Old January 25th, 2011, 12:50 AM
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Do the wife a favor - skip the light bar and put the money into a term life policy in force for the duration of ownership.
Can't say that I disagree, but damn.
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  #23  
Old January 25th, 2011, 10:51 AM
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Matthew
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Well I guess no one here really want to read what I said about my F150. The comparison made was that I NEED a roll bar because I fell that the Defender is weaker in the cab area.

I wasn't comparing the strength of a defender roof and a F150 roof. I was saying that since the defender roof is weaker I would at least need a roll bar since in my experience the stronger F150 roof was just almost enough.
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  #24  
Old January 25th, 2011, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
Yea im not looking to bolt it to the frame. My wheeling is very light, the 110 is a commuter vehicle.
Nah, they got you right. If a roll bar does not go to the frame, then it's not worth running and in a LR won't be any stronger than your f150.
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  #25  
Old January 25th, 2011, 05:55 PM
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Roll cages should go to the frame for extra protection, but even most factory "cages" do not. Even Jeep cages up until the latest models were simple floor mount. We can argue the point all day. I build both types and recommend tying to the frame if possible, but many times it's not necessary. Often times you can bolt to the body and achieve the same result - like the SD 110 cages where the internal hoop behind the driver ties to the T-post and floor, and the exterior B hoop ties to the body. While SD cages are not the gold standard, even their 110 cages only touch the "frame" at the very front and rear.
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  #26  
Old January 26th, 2011, 02:55 PM
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Matthew
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Originally Posted by grnrvrs View Post
Nah, they got you right. If a roll bar does not go to the frame, then it's not worth running and in a LR won't be any stronger than your f150.


Sorry I don't agree with this, something is better than nothing
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  #27  
Old January 26th, 2011, 08:07 PM
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kevin
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Sorry I don't agree with this, something is better than nothing
How do you figure that? And why should you when something can be better?
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  #28  
Old January 26th, 2011, 11:10 PM
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Sorry I don't agree with this, something is better than nothing
That's usually right. But in this case, the "something" is screwed to junk-yard aluminum and will promptly break free and probably hit you in the balls.
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