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  #1  
Old April 13th, 2006, 11:46 AM
artm
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Arthur Maravelis
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RN wheel spacers

Came across this offering from RN. Sounds like a good deal. Waiting to hear back if they're compatible with stock alloys.


-----------------
NEW ProLine Performance Wheel Spacer Set
Widen your Land Rover's track, and dramatically improve your turning radius and handling.
Precision made from Billet Aluminum with heat-treated heavy-duty wheel studs, this new and improved Performance Wheel Spacer Kit is designed for superior strength and off-road performance. Made in the USA.
Set includes 4 30mm wide spacers with studs, and 20 lug nuts.

RNWS001 Performance Wheel Spacer Kit Regular price $359.00
INTRODUCTORY PRICE of only $329.00
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  #2  
Old April 13th, 2006, 12:34 PM
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Robb
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Put them on mine a month or so ago (on stock alloys), and love em. Been out wheelin several times and have had no problems. Like the wider track and turning radius.
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  #3  
Old April 13th, 2006, 02:12 PM
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any clue if these are hub-centric or lug-centric?
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  #4  
Old April 13th, 2006, 02:14 PM
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Bill Lewis
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With the stock alloys, does anyone have pics of before and after?
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  #5  
Old April 13th, 2006, 03:17 PM
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steve
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Any user experience with tires rubbing the fenders? is any trimming requires at full articulation with 33's?
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  #6  
Old April 28th, 2006, 09:14 PM
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Andrew Walcker
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The RN wheel spacers are not hub-centric. Is this going to be a problem if running the stock alloys over time?
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  #7  
Old April 28th, 2006, 11:42 PM
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Okay, what is hub-centric? I've heard it here a few times now.
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  #8  
Old April 29th, 2006, 01:34 AM
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Chris Davis
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Hub centric is a reference to the rim (or spacer) tightly fitting over the hub and "helping" carry/distribute the forces of of the wheel to the axle not only on the lug nuts/studs, but also onto the hub directly. Other rims have a much wider center cut out that never touches the hub.

I say yeah, hubcentrics are inherently stronger in theory HOWEVER, I don't think for a minute that non-hub-centrics are any weaker in wheeling conditions. I personally have never ever seen any rim fail in a way that, if it where hubcentric, it would not fail.
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  #9  
Old May 1st, 2006, 02:24 PM
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Andrew Walcker
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Nicley put Chris.

My dilema is that I ordered a set of the 30mm spacers from RN. When I received them I noticed that they do not have the "ramps" or "ridges" around the hole on the wheel spacers to keep the stock alloy centered. The 5 "ramps" are best seen in the RN catalog on page 89, top left. Without these centering "ramps" (hub-centric) the lugs are the only way that the wheel is centered. Typically, and correct me if I'm wrong, a regular stud tapers or flares out at the base so that the holes on the lugs have a positive surface to seat up against (thus lug-centric). The RN wheel spacers have a straight lug and hence there is the potential that as the lug nuts are tightened that the wheel will not be exactly centered. My worry is that this off-centered wheel could, over time, elongate the soft alloy of the stock wheel lug holes and cause the rims to be un-usable. I called and spoke with RN this morning and was told that this was the "new" desing for the Defender and they had not received any complainst since this modification was made four months ago. Am I being way to sensitive? Any thoughts please!
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  #10  
Old May 2nd, 2006, 12:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97D90
Nicley put Chris.

My dilema is that I ordered a set of the 30mm spacers from RN. When I received them I noticed that they do not have the "ramps" or "ridges" around the hole on the wheel spacers to keep the stock alloy centered. The 5 "ramps" are best seen in the RN catalog on page 89, top left. Without these centering "ramps" (hub-centric) the lugs are the only way that the wheel is centered. Typically, and correct me if I'm wrong, a regular stud tapers or flares out at the base so that the holes on the lugs have a positive surface to seat up against (thus lug-centric). The RN wheel spacers have a straight lug and hence there is the potential that as the lug nuts are tightened that the wheel will not be exactly centered. My worry is that this off-centered wheel could, over time, elongate the soft alloy of the stock wheel lug holes and cause the rims to be un-usable. I called and spoke with RN this morning and was told that this was the "new" desing for the Defender and they had not received any complainst since this modification was made four months ago. Am I being way to sensitive? Any thoughts please!
I don't know for sure, but this whole hub-centric thing sounds like global warming (some believe in it but its really just crap). I would be really amazed if you ran into problems. I have been cranking down my rover wheels on flat non centric anything for a while and flogging the heck out of it with no problems. The bolts up front are just standard too. I think you are fine, but I am no expert on this for sure.
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  #11  
Old May 2nd, 2006, 02:24 PM
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What size tires are you guys running with these spacers? I am on 33X12.5's and I am curious as to how far the spacers will push them out (I know 30mm). You guys have any pics?
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  #12  
Old January 7th, 2007, 11:57 AM
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Bob Hanson AKA Two-Socks
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Is anyone using the RN wheel spacers with 255X85R16 tires? Standard OME HD spring lift. Any rubbing? Any guesses? Anybody have a wheel fall off yet? This was a fairly old thread.
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  #13  
Old January 8th, 2007, 05:49 PM
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They look great & wider track adds stability but how does it improve the turing radius? Does the spacer allow resetting the steering stops? Thanks for helping educate on this one.
Jim
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  #14  
Old January 8th, 2007, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldgreentrucks
They look great & wider track adds stability but how does it improve the turing radius? Does the spacer allow resetting the steering stops? Thanks for helping educate on this one.
Jim
Exactly,

The tires have more room to turn without hitting the radius arms so you can adjust the stops.
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  #15  
Old January 9th, 2007, 12:56 AM
artm
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Arthur Maravelis
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I looked into these for the 110, using the stock D90 alloys and tires. In the end I decided they weren't worth the trouble or money. While the setup described leaves the tires about 1-inch inside the flares a switch to American Racing rims and 33x12.5's solves that.

I don't like that:

- they're not steel - I think that's still the case.
- there may possibly be extra stress on the axle.
- more problems may be introduced than solved.

If you need the benefits of these just get the right rims. I thought the turning radius without these would be bad. It isn't. Just adjust the stops and live with it.

As for greater stability, come one now. Can you really tell the difference???
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  #16  
Old January 9th, 2007, 11:03 AM
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thanks...Jim
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  #17  
Old January 11th, 2007, 08:24 PM
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Bob Hanson AKA Two-Socks
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Rims, rims, rims I keep going in circles. For the 33X12.5 tires are you using 15 or 16 inch wheels? May I ask what brand and where did you get them. I'm coming up with a big ZERO for wheels in our bolt pattern...it is 5 on 6.5 right? I saw a set of BF Goodrich MTR KM at the store the other day.They were 33X12.5 but for 15 inch rims. Any ideas are much appreciated.
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  #18  
Old January 11th, 2007, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shake
Rims, rims, rims I keep going in circles. For the 33X12.5 tires are you using 15 or 16 inch wheels? May I ask what brand and where did you get them. I'm coming up with a big ZERO for wheels in our bolt pattern...it is 5 on 6.5 right? I saw a set of BF Goodrich MTR KM at the store the other day.They were 33X12.5 but for 15 inch rims. Any ideas are much appreciated.
You can get 15, 16, 17, whatever you want. Are you looking for steel or something else?
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  #19  
Old January 11th, 2007, 11:35 PM
artm
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Arthur Maravelis
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I'm running 15x8 steel from Rover Accessories. Only cost $50 or so each. They're black with holes in a ring around the center. I think Charles called them Unique rims.
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  #20  
Old January 12th, 2007, 09:08 PM
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Bob Hanson AKA Two-Socks
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Thanks again guys. Esp. Buck. I know this much. I have stock alloys and need new tires. Am scowering (sp) the board looking for ways to set up my D right the first time without $1000 mistakes. That might kill me and errr, that might kill me.

Looks like the majority preference is for steel wheels. The only ones I found were, WOLF 16X 6.5.
Am concerned about the 6.5 vs factory 7" Am thinking a wider rim would be safer/more reliable and the 33X12.5s (Think they were only for 15 inch rims) seem to fill the wheel well without adverse mods and effects.

Looked at other tires and think the BFG MT KM in 255X85R16 will work well and fill the wheel well (vertically)too. Discount Tires will also sipe them. But I would still be on a 6.5 base rim size.

Is there an advantage to the 15 inch rims? If I got 33X12.5R15 would there be a disadvantage? eg. need axle upgrade, less torque, less speed... Looking at all possibilites. Would adding wheel spacers add to the stability? Or is this more global warming stuff? Am I wrong in thinking that a wider rim is better?

Where the heck is the scratching head, confused, dufus icon?
Oh, yeah. No more lift than at present. Standard OME Spring lift.
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