Right front wheel whine - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old April 26th, 2006, 12:07 PM
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Bill Lewis
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No. I did dynamat the entire inside and turn my radio up though

bill
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  #22  
Old April 27th, 2006, 04:13 PM
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Barry O'Mahony
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One thing I've noticed is that, with the parking brake set, when I take my foot off the brake pedal on an incline, the truck moves a little bit. This should indicate an issue with the rear u-joints, doesn't it? I drove with the radio off, and I also hear the characteristic "clunk" when I let off and press on the accelerator.
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  #23  
Old April 27th, 2006, 07:58 PM
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Bad ujoints that I have had always make more of a ping noise than a clunk. With an automatic set the handbrake and shift into drive and then reverse and listen for the ping.

Or is it more of a clink?
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  #24  
Old April 28th, 2006, 12:59 AM
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Barry O'Mahony
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[QUOTE= With an automatic set the handbrake and shift into drive and then reverse and listen for the ping.?[/QUOTE]That doesn't sound right for a D-90, since the handbrake drum is on the transfer case rear output shaft, not the rear wheels like it is on most trucks.

I travelling this weekend; when I get back I'll crawl underneath and have a look-see.
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  #25  
Old April 28th, 2006, 05:51 PM
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I'll bet you're right, just put your foot on the brake and do the same thing.
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  #26  
Old June 21st, 2011, 11:08 PM
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peter
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I am getting a whine, from I think the front end, that increases with speed when I get above 35MPH. The whine goes away when I let off the gas. I have an auto in the 90. So it seems like something driveline like u joints or cvs..?

It also seems hard to get up to speeds above 70. Of course I am new to the D's so maybe I'm not used to running the gas soo hard lol. But it kicks down constantly when get going that fast and hills dominate it. More than 55 mph up the passes is asking alot of rpms. I did a compression check with the tune-up and they were all 150-135 so pretty close. According to harbor freight quality...

I also have an intermittent softer than normal brake pedal. Sometime they are real tight and stops on a dime, sometimes you need to make sure you're watching you don't rear end someone. So that brings bearings to mind, but my whine isn't constant.

Any ideas?

Thanks guys!

Pete
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  #27  
Old June 22nd, 2011, 07:32 AM
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Joshua
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broncoduecer
I am getting a whine, from I think the front end, that increases with speed when I get above 35MPH. The whine goes away when I let off the gas.
Transfer case whine or does it sound different? Your loss of power may just be the normal sluggishness of the Defender, as I believe we all suffer a bit uphill.
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  #28  
Old June 22nd, 2011, 07:55 AM
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peter
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Maybe the the transfer case. Too bad there aren't more 90 owners around here and we could compare sounds. From reading other posts it sounds typical, but the results are varied. I think u joints a in order any since i have no idea how old they are.
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  #29  
Old June 22nd, 2011, 08:30 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Check your wheel bearings are not loose. Your statement about the brakes makes it sound like it could be that.
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  #30  
Old June 22nd, 2011, 09:34 AM
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Matthew
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I had this same whine when i bought my truck, it eventually turned into a rubbing/wobble noise. Replace the front wheel bearings (one was bone dry) and now im good to go
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  #31  
Old November 1st, 2011, 11:39 PM
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peter
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Hi again guys,
So Tonight in the garage I put each wheel up on a jack and tested for any play. The drivers front and passenger rear both had play. Not in and out play, but if you grab top and bottom or side and side and "push pull" you can get play. So two wheels were fine and two weren't, is this a symptom of wheel bearings or something else?

I thought if dealing with the fronts it could be something else, ball joints (swivel pins?), from dealing with fords, but the rear. Well yea, nothing else to move back there. Just looking for a sanity check.

As for bearings are the timken better than the genuine?

Thanks,
Pete
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  #32  
Old November 2nd, 2011, 07:39 AM
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mark kellgren
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repace all your wheel bearings asap! get parts on hand quick and go with newer double lipped seals and new style locknut!
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  #33  
Old November 2nd, 2011, 10:10 AM
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peter
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Sounds like a plan. Does RN have the new seals and nut? Are both inner and outer seals new or just one side?
Thanks,
Pete
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  #34  
Old November 2nd, 2011, 10:30 AM
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mark kellgren
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same seal for inner and outer on each hub. I run wet hubs on all 4 so I only need 4 seals. If you run dry hubs you need 8 seals (inner and outer). yes, RN has it all. I just ordered a full set myself a few weeks ago for a concerning squeal, but turned out to be a bent mud shield was making the noise, so now I have the new locknuts ready to go when the time comes, and have an emergency bearing kit in my rig with a new seal, new packed bearings in a ziploc, and a new locknut.

A few years ago on my way to KY from NC, I had a bearing seize on me in TN. I didn't accept it soon enough and ended us seizing the bearing on the highway. $1500 to LR dealer for a new hub and bearings, when this kit with less than $50 in parts and the right set of tools was all I needed, and could have been done in a hotel parking lot in a couple hours.
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