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  #1  
Old March 24th, 2005, 11:37 PM
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Christian Shea
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Right Fender Help

I just got my prized possession home, unfortunately it came with a pretty badly damaged right front fender. I can get the replacement from roversnorth for around $250 but how hard is it to remove with the roll cage tied into it. Should I trust any shop to do the work or one only who touches foreign cars especially rovers? If anyone has done this work please let me know about how much it cost you and any pertinent details as I am really at a loss in this one. Thanks in advance!
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  #2  
Old March 25th, 2005, 12:51 PM
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Remving the front fender skin is easy. You are better off to get a UK spec plain fender and cut out the holes for the roll cage and side marker lamp, will save a few bucks. You also have to clearance a small piece on the bottom of the fender. I think there are 4 or 5 screws that hold the fender skin onto the bulkhead. There is a roll cage mounting bracket that sandwiches the skin to the bulkhead. Take out all the screws that attach the skin to the fender and front panel, then remove the screws that attach the skin to the bulkhead. The fender skin will then come right out. Of course you have to remove the fender flare and possibly the inner fender to get to all of the bolts, can't remember off hand. Also, the heater box and intake are going to be in your way, but it is possible to get the screws out of the bulkhead without removing the heater box. Hope this helps.

Chris
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  #3  
Old March 25th, 2005, 01:15 PM
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Randy
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YOu don't need to remove the heater. Like Chris said, remove the flare and you will see all the bolts needed to be removed. I bought the UK spec ones and just cut the holes. ITs alot cheaper.
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  #4  
Old March 25th, 2005, 03:39 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Its really easy, but it will take a bit of time to access and remove all the fasteners. I'll dig up the pix...
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  #5  
Old March 26th, 2005, 10:09 AM
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Christian Shea
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Thanks guys, if one or two of you could post some pictures I would greatly appreciate it.
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  #6  
Old March 27th, 2005, 06:22 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Ok, heres the deal. I wasnt sure whether your entire fender was damaged, or just the outer skin - no matter really, but I'll just describe how to remove the whole thing. Leave the inner fender in place - there is no point removing it and you wont have to realign it if you dont mess with it.

This procedure isnt in exact order, some steps could be swapped around:
1) remove fender flare. Its hard to see when they're dirty, but each fastener has a small peg in the center. push this peg through the fastener and they'll pull right out. You might salvage a few, but most will break, so buy a bunch of new ones.

2) remove the headlight surround, grille, and metal grille surround. You'll be looking at the radiator support and diagonal braces. Remove the M8 bolts that hold the fender to the fender support. Find something to prop up the hood, because the hood support will come off with the the right fender.

3) remove the radiator expansion tank, the washer fluid tank, and anything else bolted to the right fender. You then have to remove the intake grille from the fender top and the intake plenum that runs from the intake to the heater - you have to be kind of forceful with this but its plastic so it will survive. This gives access to the row of bolts connecting the inner fender to the outer fender. These are 4 or 5 bolts that connect the top of the innder fender to the flange created at the seam of the fender top and fender side. You'll probably have to remove the evaporative canister which is concealed behind the headlight to access the most forward bolt.

4) it easiest if you just remove the roll cage, but you can get by without it. Just remove the 4 bolts on each fender and one bolt on the bar above the door - then just slide it off to the front.

5) you now have access to all the remaining fasteners along the bulkhead fender joint. Reach into the space created by removing the fender flare and remove the 4 bolts that hold the roll-cage reinforcement to the bulkhead. After removing this and a couple other misc bolts, the fender will pop right off whole.

Its simple, but a bit time consuming and access to some bolts is a PITA, but it wont take more than 5-6 hours to swap a fender if you are working deliberately and taking your time. If you started on a saturday morning, you'd definitely have the truck ready by monday as long as you have enough plastic fasteners to reattach your flare. I cant imagine paying a shop to do this.

Follow-up Post:

I just realized you're in atlanta - I'll be in Benning for most of the weekends in April and I'm gonna need something to do. If you want help, get your fender painted up and let me know when you want to do the job.
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  #7  
Old February 7th, 2010, 10:05 PM
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Alexandra
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I just want to do the outer skin since that is what has the dent and was hoping for some photos of the front bolts and the ones that run along the top. It makes sense for the most part I was just hoping for some more photos. I have the eyebrow off and can see the bulkhead bolts. It's really the ones where the outer fender connects to the wing I am interested in.

I need to do the left side too, dents are only in the outer fender, I am assuming it will be the same there too.

Also, do I need to order replacement bolts or anything for reattaching it? I have the rivets to reattach the eyebrow.

Thanks,
Alex
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  #8  
Old February 8th, 2010, 12:28 AM
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barry f
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How bad are the dents? I saw a terrible one here and a paintless dent guy made it look new. It was shocking
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  #9  
Old February 8th, 2010, 09:41 AM
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Alexandra
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Thinking on the right I might go that route as the paint is still fine.

On the left it's rough and the paint is gone so I am thinking remove and take to the auto body shop. I have a bid for that fender and it's $800 for them to fix it but only abot $200 of that is paint and body work, the rest is R/R cost.
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